General Supercharger Thread

I can certainly understand some apprehension! They way I look at it, I’ve already achieved guinea pig status by slapping a 2.6 liter blower on my truck without a tune which goes against everything the tuning community knows about forced induction. So getting a custom tune, even if by someone newer to the game, probably isn’t the worst thing. If the place was up the road from me I’d give it a look.

 

oh Contraire' ... Harrop tested our unit & it safely stayed on the map with the 85mm pulley. they also said it needs a tune for anything over that.

I confirmed this with dyno results from my installer. (let's leave out my lean codes for now)

then...I read the stories that @Saltyhero13 so graciously posted, and shudder at having to replace a 3UR.


with that said...I'll go by there and confirm if my skeptical meter is accurate.

I'll report back forthwith.

The main dude is very kind & easy to communicate with. I'm presently working on both those skills....

 

“We cannot support the 21 Sequoia yet.

Thanks,

Dinesh Hospeti
www.d3performance.net
260 Dickinson Avenue
League City, TX 77573”

 

Thanks for the info I’m def looking into this then!!

 

If you have the $, the Harrop solution is quite nice.

 

I sincerely hope this works out to be a great product. Skeptical on the delivery of "Stage 3 big HP" however, at least not without fortifying the engine and transmission.

This thread has a lot of details that went into his project, its worth the read/watch.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/pro...-1000-hp-daily-driven-awd-tundra-build.54634/

 

Based on what I’ve read, unless you’re going to build up the engine internally there isn’t more safe power to be had beyond what a stage 2 Harrop with the addition of a 4.5” intake, RCF throttle body, Longtube headers and parallel/Prospeed fuel system, and an ITP valve body can provide. I would have to assume his “stage 3” would be a package consisting of those additional parts but that is a total guess as I don’t believe they are engine builders. That would be pushing it to its max, and at that point you are making 600whp give or take.

 

"Skeptical on the delivery of "Stage 3 big HP" however, at least not without fortifying the engine and transmission."

agreed.

The 2650 Eaton can easily put 14psi into the engine. however, the stock engine can't take it. 8psi is the upper limit - best I can tell.

I'm OK with my 6psi......for now.

easy as that.

 

past stage 2 (8psi)you would, at least, need ...rings, rods & bearings. and an open tab @ discount tire.

 

I think you are 100% correct. The closer to 600WHP the more disproportionately expensive the mods get to squeak out the extra HP.

I would be happy if the AWD swap was an option for newer model Tundras (2014+).
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...013-tundra-to-full-time-awd-capability.54474/

 

SDHQ built one with the following setup:

“2014 FFV, Harrop Stage 2, parallel fuel rails, Ti Automotive 450lph fuel pump, delete FFV control valve, all 6AN fittings with 3/8" pressure and return lines, 46psi at idle with boost reference hooked up, 4" intake, stock 76mm throttle body, stock manifolds and coverter, Magna Flo cat back single exhaust.”

So with factory exhaust manifolds and all the cats in place it made 543whp and 555wtq on a dynapack hub dyno. The same mods but adding long tubes on seems to net you another 50-60hp.

 

"Sir, will you be having the racing slicks again?"
"No those were MT Tires."

 

RE: Pressure ratio question I asked earlier regarding reading the adiabatic map.

The simple calculation is done by (gauge boost pressure + 14.7 psi)/ 14.7 psi; the adjusted calculation is similar (gauge boost pressure + 14.7 psi)/(14.7 psi - 1 psi for depression)

So a pressure ratio of 1.3 means you are creating 4.41 gauge boost psi . If you adjusted for depression it means you are creating 3.11 gauge boost psi.

A pressure ratio of 2 means you are creating 14.7 psi or 13.7 if you use the adjusted formula.

The article goes into calculating air flow as well as explaining other fundamentals (for turbos and centrifugal superchargers). Just keep in mind some of these factors like surge lines and choke lines wont apply to TVS blowers. The VE still applies.
https://www.garrettmotion.com/news/...derstanding-calculations-to-turbo-any-engine/

 

Table 1 in this article correlates safe boost level to compression ratios:
https://www.jegs.com/s/tech-article...chargers+-+Blowers+-+Roots+Type+-+Centrifugal


Edit: The table seems to indicate safe boost for our application is around 4 psi.

Edit #2: the table isn't accounting for an intercooler and is making an unknown assumption about the S/C VE (probably low 50s or 60s)

Edit #3 a visual guide to safe boosting:
https://youtu.be/R2JvA97zO7g

 

Have my appointment with Prospeed setup in November to do the following upgrades to my LX 570:
-Prospeed fuel system (billet fuel rails, 750cc injectors, 450lph in-tank, adjustable FPR, 6AN feed and return lines)
-American Racing Headers long tube headers 1-3/4" x 3" with high flow cats
-Harrop 80mm pulley
-Magnuson air box lid with AFe pro dry filter
-HP Tuners ECM and TCM tuning on an AWD dyno

Honestly I'm most excited about the tune and the headers. I'm on a stock cat-back so the increase in sound should be subtle in a good way. I don't think the stock catback will be holding me back too much.

 

We are working on a SC patched calibration for all 2018+ Tundras. This calibration will included many of the changes that Toyota added for their FitKit calibration. We should have this available for testing by the end of next week.

 

The black truck beside mine is Harrop charged with 600hp at the wheels, sorry don’t have better pic.. Sounds nasty.

 

Thank you @Saltyhero13. You are too good to us.

 

Any chance for the Sequoias being supported as well? How different are the ECUs compared to Tundras?

 

Most welcome!

Trying to share what I find so folks can make informed decisions. Please question what I post or correct any errors I made. I'm not a motor-head mechanic type so I'm trying to get up to speed with the rest of y'all.

 

Welcome to the forums!

When you are ready I would recommend introducing yourself and your product in a separate thread under "Performance and Tuning" (not sure if special permission is required from the mods)

 

Is this person a member here? Did they share a build out with you?
Thnx

 

Is this the same truck?

 

Do IT! Mine will be here in just a couple short weeks…join the crew

 

Speaking of, I know it’s a big ask, but I’d be forever in debt to you guys if you could come up with a few talking points I should hit on with the installing shop. Harrop says this shop has installed one before but it wasn’t their first choice. Their first choice was a shop 70 miles one way from my house that wouldn’t even return my calls or emails, let alone get me a quote on the install. I really dig the vibe I get from the shop that will be doing it, but I know very little about superchargers and installing them. I’ve had turbos my whole life, but never a supercharger. Is there any concerns or things I should talk to the shop about regarding the install? My main concerns at this point are the lean codes @nobodyintexas is getting and the PCV issue @Puba was having…hoping his issues are a thing of the past.

 

My thing as I’m doing more research into truly turning my truck into a monster is between whipple and magnusons they both require injectors and tune and this doesn’t just the fuel pump. What’s the difference? More hp from others so needs tune?

 

yes. the 85mm pulley (~6psi)is the limit for the stock ecu to run a harrop. go higher and you need a tune.

 

I'm stepping up to starter fluid this weekend. I will find the vacuum leak!
the truck runs perfect until I idle during a cold front.

it never runs lean under load.

and......this cool front has me averaging 18.2mpg for 175 miles. not running a/c compressor.

 

I am intrigued & jealous. a Dirty Deeds exhaust would be the cherry on top. A vicious sounding LX.