FS: 2018 Tundra LED Headlights Plug N Play wire Harness for 2014-2017 models

I tapped into the white wire on the same plug you tapped into the grey wire @rocky_mtn_trd, and my DRLs don't turn on. My signal lights hyperflash, I think it's because of this wire. What black wire did you tap into @rocky_mtn_trd ?

 

I connected the t-tap to the black wire in the green circle pictured above for the 12v switched power. If the DRL's aren't coming on, they aren't getting 12v power at this connection. The fast flashers are likely due to you tapping the white wire in the flasher group. Switch this, and you should be golden. Here is a better photo of where/how I tapped into the gray wire in the flasher harness. This is the only connection I made on the flasher harness.

 

Awesome. I will try this tomorrow. I will post pics once I open up the dash. Thank you so much.

 

You bet

 

Are you guys having to adjust the aiming of the new headlight assemblies?

 

I didn't, but mine aimed right where I wanted them out of the box.

 

Instead of tapping into unknown 12V switched supplies, would it be prudent to add a simple fuse tap to one of the fuses at the under-dash panel? My thoughts are that Toyota never designed the electrical system for overcapacity - designing their circuits for maximum amp draw per circuit. By tapping into any one of them to power the DRL, it could be taxing that circuit.

 

This thought did cross my mind, but I ran into turn signal problems and didn't get it back together until right at dark and it was getting cold out fast. I'll likely add a fuse tap here in the next few days. So for now, follow my direction at your own risk. I do not take responsibility if something goes wrong.

 

Initially I tried this but the fuse tap won’t let the cover to be placed back if you don’t mind to leave the fuse box exposed this is the best way to go, just use the MT fuse location for ACC

 

I used a fuse tap in the under hood fuse box and just ran that wire back into the relay in the cab. Plenty of room in that box to put the lid back on.

 

Which slot did you use? I saw one labeled LED DRL in the engine compartment fuse box.

 

If I recall, it was labeled IGN. I had installed it a year ago for some DRL strips. I'll take a pic here in a minute.

 

Here's the fuse box. I drilled a small hole in the side of the box, then fed the wire off the tap through and soldered and heat shrink to the wire going to the cab. I added a bit of clear silicone to ensure a good seal. This way the lid fits back perfectly without crimping the wire. I still need to add some wire loom over the power wire going to the cab.

 

14-17 Tundra Fuse Info:



UNDER HOOD





UNDER DASH






Use the ACC 7.5A fuse location if you going this way

 

The LED DRL fuse slot isn't active in non-1794/Platinum trucks.

 

I see that now upon closer inspection. I'm ordering some fuse taps from Amazon now. O'Reilly's wants $13.99 for 1...wow! So onto the anytime fog mod and installing my BD Squadron Sports for today.

 

One other option: Inferno_pro_satx in this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...7-tundra-with-factory-amber-drls.16801/page-2 states (paraphrase) that the fused power lead to the relay doesn't have to be ignition controlled, since the relay is not energized when the PCM is off. He recommends connecting directly to the battery and has done so for several years with no issues. This would be an easy option - run a seperate wire from the battery to the relay under the dash, and connect it to iHacker's fused lead on the relay.

 

So if I don't want to use the ambers as DRL's but have them work as factory, I should be fine with out things like the horns beeping, wipers wiping, windows powering, and not get the $150 harness but get the $175 one for factory!

 

I gotta do this, tomorrow for sure. I've been having this issue now for a couple of weeks now and can't wait to fix it. Thanks to @iHacker and all you guys for your help.

 

Just follow the same guide provided from @rocky_mtn_trd, this is the final result We ended, the white wire in my TRD PRO is not present in the SR5 and is gray

 

Cool. So should I tap into the ACC 7.5 amp fuse or grey wire? Or run a wire from the battery to your fuse plug? I'm leaning more to the ACC 7.5 amp fuse.

 

Nope just use the black wire he marked in pictures as 12V switched power, he tapped Gray wire to keep Amber DRL, but this is optional. The only thing changing from my installation guide is the t-tap on white wire, SR5 don’t have that wire, if you have a polarity tester you can find your own power source.

 

Thanks, I'll tap into the black wire.

 

Should not be a problem choosing the right wire. Even Toyota uses the t-tap method, when ordering my PRO I requested the in bed LED lights, there’s a t-tap in my wiring and discovered is for that. Came in that way from factory (see the red t-tap in the bottom)

 

For iHackers harness, has anyone made a step by step with pictures for connecting the
harness and controller on a SR5, mine is a 2017. I want it simple and don't want the amber set as the DRL, just factory!

Thanks

 

He sends you a PDF with laid out instructions when you buy the harness. Between that and the @thomasbus337 thread where this all originated, you should be fine. That thread shows all the wiring diagrams and pin relocation etc...If you get hung up on anything, just post up in here and any of us that have done the install will help ya through it.

 

Post some pics of the install, greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks for the response, greatly appreciated!

 

Yes sir.