Finally...Leveled, Wheels, & Tires

Thanks man!!

Yes sir!!

Anytime! I'm not an avid offroader and will keep the truck on the pavement 99% of the time, so I figured it was a good setup for me. I know if I wanted to go down a dirt road I have the setup to handle it.

 

I echo everybody's sentiment that the build looks great. What is your future plans or update post lift?

 

Thanks man! Still loving the setup! Im not sure what the timeline will be but future plans include:

• TRD Pro Grill
• OEM LED Headlights
• Window Tint
• Tonneau Revolver bed cover
  
• BAM Exhaust (not sure which setup yet)
• LED Interior Lights

Just waiting on a sack full of cash to show up

 

I thought those wheels were +18... can you confirm the Method model again? They look like the Vex.

Truck looks awesome.

 

Thanks bud! They are the Method NV.

Check this link out. Here's where I bought them with all the specs.

 

@wwinslett How was it doing the install by yourself? This is a setup I am looking at also, so I am curious how the whole install went, any details is appreciated!

 

So Ill say the rear end was very easy. About 8 bolts on each side of the truck. I didn't replace my lowers shackle bushings since my truck only has 8k on it. I've heard those can be tough to get out but talking to Toytec they recommended keeping my OEM since the low miles.

Watch this video for good tips on replacing the shackles

The front was a different story. It was pretty tough at first but once we figured out what all needed to be taken loose the other side was pretty fast. I would definitely say its a two man job. Having that extra hand made all the difference when assembling/disassembling some of the components. I had my dad's help which was great. We used both of the links below and managed to get through it ok. Id set aside plenty of time so you aren't rushed.

This PDF
This Video

 

Just to add to what wwinslett said, the front is more easily done with an extra set of hands. But it's doable if doing it alone. There are 3 methods I'm aware of to add the clearance necessary to fit the new coilovers in:

1. Separate upper ball joint and control arm from spindle;
2. Separate lower ball joint assembly from hub assembly; and
3. He-man the lower control arm down with a big pry bar

Although I've done method 3 on much lighter 1st generation Tacomas before, I wasn't strong enough to do it by myself on a Tundra. I've read about one person who did it on another forum, though. Most folks choose the first two methods. I chose the 2nd method (separate lower ball joint assembly).

If separating the lower ball joint assembly, be aware that the two lower control arm nuts are on there super tight. No need to remove them - just loosen them enough so that the lower control arm will pivot down and out of the way. I had to use a breaker bar and the long tube handle of the hydraulic jack as a cheater bar to break them loose. Also be aware that once the lower control arm drops the hub assembly will kind of "float" forward a bit towards the front of the truck, thereby getting somewhat in the way when snaking the new coilover in. This is where an extra set of hands can be really helpful by having someone push the hub assembly further back while you position in the new coilover. But if you're going solo like I did, you can sit in such a way where you can use your knee to push the hub assembly out of the way while you use both hands to snake in the new coilover. Kind of hard to explain in words, but you'll know what I mean if you choose to separate the lower ball joint assembly.

Re-attaching the lower ball joint assembly was a bit tricky. Some folks used ratcheting straps. I just used a hydraulic jack to squeeze them together, and then used a big screwdriver to align them enough to get each of the two bolts threaded.

Some folks just disconnect the sway bar links. I found it helpful to also loosen the sway bar frame attachment nuts to get the sway bar loose enough to pivot further out of the way when reinstalling the new coilovers.

Anyway, just thought I'd add my little tips in case they help. Sometimes instructions and videos can be real helpful but may not include little additional nuances like explained above. Good luck!

 

Looks great! Been saving up to do the same kind of lift but I need new leaf pack in rear to hold all the wait with the tent and gear in the back.

Also the oldie is a goodie. Clean lookin still too. New wheels did the final touch.

 

So just to update everyone. I noticed the "dreaded" Tundra lean yesterday I'm sitting about 3/4" lower on the front driver side than the passenger. When I ordered all my parts I completely forgot to add in a shim for the driver front. I'm really torn about whether or not to undo everything just for 1/2"? I'm sort of kicking myself since everything was apart and it would have been so easy to add it. I've already got an alignment done.

Do you guys think adding 1/2" to the front will alter my camber that much? Should it be realigned if I decide to add it in?

 

I know you said in your first post that you set the 6112s at the top 2.5” setting. What was your initial lift on each side and what is the measurement now? Reason I ask is because the passenger side may not have settled as much as the driver side yet. Also, I’ve measured mine numerous times in different parking lots and have observed completely different measurements each time, sometimes with as much as a 1/2” discrepancy between the two. I’ve also haven’t yet found completely level ground to try to do a more accurate measurement.

But to answer your question, I would definitely get another alignment even with a 1/2” shim. In fact, I would get another alignment even if you don’t add any shim since coils probably haven’t stopped settling. I waited a few weeks and about a hundred or so miles of driving on a set of old, soon-to-be retired BFG AT/KOs before getting an initial alignment. About a week afterwards, I got new tires and immediately got another alignment. Sure enough, the tech confirmed the toe got a little off. I also had them reset camber from .2 initially to .1 to compensate for a slowing of coil spring settling.

By the way, the truck looks great. Also think it’s cool you got to spend quality time with your Dad installing the parts - those memories are way more important than tires, lift kits, etc.

 

Looking good!

 

Came out great!