Excessive oil consumption

how many miles do you have on the amsoil atf? Thinking about switching, do you like it?

 

We have tore into Allison Transmission back when dextron 3 was used. The difference now with the transcend oil is unbelievable, parts don’t look burnt and the drain intervals are longer the transmission last longer. My point is a good oil makes a big difference 0-20 is not the issue (maybe the additive package in that 0-20 is) I believe 10,000 miles between service is too long oil breaks down and a oil filter is only going to filter till it’s full. Sending oil samples out is key, it’s like a blood test for a human.
I will say it again just because a brand of oil is popular doesn’t make it the best. And Most dealers use cheap bulk oil period.
Not of Fan on Mobil 1 sorry let the bashing begin.....heard and seen to many story’s like this
We are seeing good results at 7500 and that’s as far as I go and my tundra doesn’t eat or leak oil and its pulling 7000 pounds normally 0-20 oil full synthetic always same brand.

one more thing my first oil change was done at 3000 miles.old school thought process but it works for me.

 

My oil analysis came back perfect (Blackstone) at the same time my truck is consuming oil. I’ll be switching to a heavier 5-30 or 0-30 this spring. I’m going to ride out the 0-20 so I have a good baseline of oil used between changes.

 

I did the complete fluid change at 83,500 back in May 2018. I'm at around 128K now, so roughly 45K miles on the fluid. I noticed better shifting at the time. It's been really good. You should use the Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetis ATF. It is the thinner fluid designed for our transmissions, has the WS characteristics. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...c-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLPK-EA

 

My previous vehicle was a Subaru that used 0w20 and I bought it new and did every oil change and it started with burning a quart between 7500 oci and by the time I traded it with 65000 after 6 years it was burning up to 3 quarts every 7500. My Tundra is on factory fill with 2000 miles in it and already 1/4 below the full line. Pretty much every account of modern vehicles consuming oil all have one thing in common and it's 0w20. Subaru says burning 1 quart every 1000 miles is okay, GM says 2000 miles is okay. I feel that before the widespread adoption of 0w20 brand new vehicles did not have issues consuming oil. All you need to do is a Google search and tons of complaints come from pretty much every manufacturer about new vehicles burning oil.

 

I don't think 0w20 is a bad oil as far as analysis and tests go it's great and provides great protection in the cold and adequate protection in the heat but a side affect of being so thin is that it burns off faster and the more of it that burns the worse it will get as more and more burned oil deposits are made.

 

Agreed. It’s like sewing machine oil.

 

My truck did not use a drop for the first 30k miles or so either, then it all of a sudden started using oil (no leaks anywhere). When I started it last night a huge cloud of oil smoke came out of the tail pipe (there are lots of posts on this as well if you look for them). Don't get too confident in your truck not using oil--it can start in one day. I bought my truck new, always used top brand full synthetic oils, took care of it, etc. I also park in a garage and no oil leaks. My truck has 50,000 miles on it.

I now think the oil consumption is due to the rings getting gunked up with burnt oil ("coking"), causing the rings to stick. The people not having this problem probably run their engines at high enough speeds and for a length of time to keep this burnt oil blown out of the engine, and the people having the problem probably do not run their engines so that these burnt oil deposits get dislodged and blown out of the engine. Ultimately, the cause of the problem is piston/ring design coupled with a very thin oil that is more likely to burn and leave deposits. That is my theory anyway and it may change when I get more information.

A similar thing used to happen when cars ran rich with carbs back in the day. The pistons, plugs, etc. would get a lot of carbon deposits and the folks who did not blow them out on the interstate, etc. would have rough running engines, fouled plugs, etc.

At this point I am going to live with it and try to run engine cleaners and get the truck on the interstate, etc. more. I lug the motor and only drive it about 10 miles each way to and from work in stop and go traffic each day and I think that is causing the problem. I have done a lot of reading, and for now I am going to stick with 0w-20 and try some other things to remedy the problem.

 

Yep, you are in the most likely scenario for oil consumption. You are also likely to have vvti cam gear problems. If it was mine I would try to accelerate hard up to 5k and then coast to a stop a few times a week. Ive had 3 new toyota vehicles since the switch to 0w-20, and each one got broken in hard and none burn oil, my tundra is only 10k old though so it could happen still. The other 2 are over 100k with no issues and I still run Toyota 0w-20 in them. But if I had usage issues on any of them I wouldnt be afraid to run a 5w-30.

 

I use Castrol full syn just like in my Tacomas. Just checked by oil level at about 5k and not a drop missing. Well maybe a couple of ounces. Truck has 55k on it.

 

That’s good to hear! Is that the fluid you used?

 

Sounds like there was an underlying problem, between my family and I we’ve had more than 8 Toyota’s using 0w-20 most about 70k none have burned more than 1/4 qt at normal oci’s. I do quite a bit of both freeway driving and quite a bit of idling... maybe you should switch to amsoil

 

I logged into TIS today and here is what Toyota lists for recommended oils. The motor is the same for the Mexico trucks.

 

Yep, that's it. Toyota WS specs. I use the other, the Signature Series Multi-vehicle in my wife's VW, but that one doesn't meet the WS specs.

 

That's awesome, didn't even think to look for that when I had my 2 day pass. I did save a bunch of maintenance PDFs that I didn't read through completely so maybe I do have it. At least it confirms it 100%, thanks for posting it. I wish we could know the exact numbers that forcing the USA to use 0w20 saved Toyota in CAFE fines.

 

interesting thanks for sharing that.would explain why 8qts in my 17 never seemed enough ,it wasn't. I'm gonna change to 5w30 in spring and see if oil consumption stops or atleast goes down.Always have had to add oil between changes (10k) since i got it new.At 31,000 mi now and running strong.

 

I had a F150 with the famous 5.4. I changed oil every 5k and had to add 2-3 quarts in between from day it was new. Ford said anything above a QT per 600 miles was normal

 

I found the PDF containing the oil specs that @pickeledpigsfeet posted a screen shot of if anyone is interested its on the second to last page.

 

wow....all the way to 20w50...how bout them apples....

 

Seriously! I mean I don't think anyone should run such a heavy weight unless your using it as a dessert vehicle which many Land Cruisers are with the same engine but it does make you laugh at the people who talk about 0w20 is needed because of such tight tolerances and here's Toyota saying you can run 20w50.

 

yea, i wonder how that 20w50 would affect cam tower leaks? lol....that maple syrup probably would not leak, nor would it lubricate the upper cylinders, lol....

although a fleet truck we have has had 15w40 in it since new and has 375,000 miles and counting....not a toyota...

 

LOL. If I switch to "amsoil", you are implying it is a problem with the oil itself or the brand I am using. If you do a lot of freeway driving, then you are one of the ones that burns out this oil buildup as I stated in my post. The only "underlying problem" is the combination of the thin oil and piston/ring design, which lends itself to leaving "coked" oil sludge on the rings, causing them to stick. And as I stated above, if you drive enough I think it gets burned out of the engine, but if you do not drive enough then sticking rings and oil consumption can happen. The brand of oil should not make a big difference in theory as long as it is a good brand.

 

Alot of reading of what oil to use...4.7 is 5w-30 and the 5.7 is 5w-20 or 0w-20 done deal. Always stick with the same brand of oil, don't be switching around, the difference in additives can cause build up, and defiantly don't put any additives in like stp. So did I miss it some where.....about where did the oil go?

 

So, lets say most Tundras burn oil after x amount of miles. How will this effect smog testing down the road? Will Toyota fix these if they cannot be driven due to emmisions test failure?
All I know, if mine starts billowing clouds of whatever, I am getting smog testing done, and confronting Toyota with the results, and not taking the dealers word for it when they say " its ok".
Potentially, if this issue is as wide spread as it seems, Toyota may have an EPA lawsuit on its hands.

 

I had a Ford dealer tell me the exact same thing with my brand new F150 that I had special ordered. I dumped the truck and will never buy another Ford product as long as I live. For what is worth ... I went to a GM (Chevrolet) truck and it never used a drop. GM's reliability is no longer any good so now I drive a Tundra.

 

Imo its not even close to wide spread. There are way more Tundras that dont burn oil. I own 2 07+ Tundras and have 4 more in my immediate family. I change the oil on all of them and none use any oil between 7500 mile changes. 2 of them have over 200k on them.

For those that have oil burners, they got the crappy end of the stick. It would make me sick to spend that kind of money on a vehicle to have it burn oil. Depending on mileage I would either swap in a inspected used motor and hope I get lucky or trade it in. If it just a problem with oil control rings then the motor could run forever burning oil, but it will kill the cats at some point.

 

The engine is burning it: either (a) past the rings into the combustion chamber (from coked oil in the rings); or (b) vacuumed out by the PCV and run back into the combustion chamber (from the thin oil evaporating or possibly a bad PCV); or (c) a combination of both (a) and (b); or (d) some other problem like valve steam seals are bad.

Despite what some are saying in this thread, it is a widely known problem. Here is a quote from an article about the 5.7 Toyota engine: "The 3UR-FE has a problem with coking of the piston oil rings which caused high oil consumption." And here is a link to the article: https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=108 By the way, the article seems to imply the quality of the oil or changing it more frequently can help, but I know from first hand experience neither of those caused the problem on my truck because I have owned the truck since it was new, only used top brand full synthetic oil and always changed the oil at 5k intervals, and neither will help since I am doing both. My truck only has 50,000 miles on it and it has never been worked as a truck (it is driven like a car).

As I have posted numerous times (and others have too in other threads), a big cloud of blueish oil smoke from the exhaust pipe often happens on start up. I park in a garage so I would see any leaks. The engine is burning it.

 

I went decades of owning cars that never used a drop, but those cars had at least 5-30 in them (factory specifications). I thought oil consumption was a thing from the 70's (and bad leakage too) that we had solved and that I would never have to worry about again.

 

What you missed is that the 5.7 is only 0w20 and 5w20 in the USA and Canada, just south of the border in Mexico and many other countries Toyota allows for 5w30, 10w30, 15w40, and 20w50 in the 3UR-FE and that's straight from Toyotas own Tech info site.

 

from what i understand, Carburetors tended to run rich and wash oil off the cylinders which led to worn upper cylinders...fuel injectors are much more precise with fuel measurement and atomization and pretty much solved that issue

and to think how much i resisted fuel injection technology...lol