Everything you need to know about Upper Control Arms (UCA)

Here's a link to Amazon:

$750 SPC Specialty Products Toyota Tundra Adjustable Upper Control Arms (PR) - 25490

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004A393YC/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I have also been looking at the JBA's which are just a little more:
https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-hd-upper-a-arms-for-lifted-toyota-tundra.html?___SID=U

There was a good thread somewhere comparing the two for the cost. The adjustability of the SPC's scared a few people with possible alignment issues with inexperienced techs not knowing what to adjust when doing the alignment.

 

Thanks jwl019. I found the Amazon link. I was hoping LT75 could hook me up with the $475 link. ;0)

I love the look of the JBA's, but they don't have any camber adjustment as far as I can tell. My issue right now is the camber adjustment. I need to bring mine back closer to 0. It's way too positive right now. Our tires on these things are too expensive to be wearing the outer edges out every two years. And, I agree with the hesitation on the adjustable arms. If and when I buy mine, I'm going to take it to a local 4x4 shop to do the alignment. I'm going to talk with them beforehand to tell them what I installed and make sure they understand how to adjust them.

 

What exactly is your current setup? Camber should be easily adjusted with just the cams on the stock lowers. Only reason I can think otherwise is a bent frame.

 

It was Amazon. That price is gone. Shows $536 now with free shipping. I know a couple people that got them on there for but it was $480 not $475. Sorry

 

The price fluctuates on them on Amazon. In a day or two it will go back down to $480. I was watching them for a few weeks until I installed my 5100's incase I ended up needing uca's.

 

KevinK- It already had a leveling kit installed when I purchased it. I believe it is about a 2.5" spacer in the front. Factory 20" rims. 275/65 tires. When I drove it off the dealer lot it had too much positive camber. I got new tires and an alignment 5 months later. And it still had too much positive camber. I even explained to the guy that I wanted the positive camber taken out. At the time I didn't know much about this stuff. They got the numbers in the green, but I can't remember what the exact numbers were, and I can't find my paperwork. But it sounded like they adjusted it as far as they could get it. Both upper ball joints are going bad now. That is why I'm wanting to upgrade to the adjustable arms: to fix the camber and get the ball joint angle closer to stock.

 

Make sure they don’t strip your bolt. A shop did that to mine and it wouldn’t adjust anymore. Replaced the cheap Toyota bolts with SPC bolts. Wow what a difference. Can’t strip those.

 

Thanks LT75 and jwl019. I'll keep an eye on them for a week or so and see if the price changes. Someone has a new set on Ebay for $485 shipped. Not sure if I trust or not. Seller does have good feedback though.

 

Which bolt are you referring to? I'm new to the camber adjustment stuff.

 

The 2 bolts used to adjust the camber. There’s a front and rear in the front on each side. Toyota’s bolt has 2 small V-shaped groves for the washer to sit and not move. The small v’s wear off when adjusting allowing the washer to spin. Once it’s worn and spinning there’s no more adjustments. The SPC aftermarket bolts have a large flat side the washer slides into. They also come with sleeves so they don’t seize. The new bolts allow for extra adjustment that the shitty Toyota ones won’t allow. Google SPC cam bolt kit tundra.

 

I’m not sure why they couldn’t get good camber numbers for you but if the BJ is going bad, then yeah a replacement is in order anyway. With a little bit of lift like that, you should be aiming for these numbers:

Cross .10/.12

Camber -.5

Caster 4

Great tip. I’m looking at swapping the stock rubber bushings for the poly ones from Australia for the land cruiser. May throw these bolts in at the e same time. I also considered replacing the round washer with a piece square flat stock and an offset hole so I could lock in the position I want on the lower and do the alignment with the upper (icon adjustable heims upper).

 

Back down to $480.99 on Amazon right now.

 

I too am new to this. I currently sit o 5100s in the front with .25 shim,about 3in lift.i want to eventually run 37s but my wheel spec is 17x8.5 +0 offset. Will Uca's allow me to adjust the suspension enough so that I can fit 37s and those wheels specs? I have a 2019 TRD sport, no rear lift, bmc and slight bumper trim. Thanks!

 

They will help with alignment. But you might need to go slightly higher and also look at the new gears if you want to go 37

 

I read u can do 37s on a 3inch lift? Is that only on long travel set ups?

 

You’ll just need to do a lot of cutting in the wheel well. The higher you go the less cutting.

 

The major difference between most setups with 37s and what you're considering, is the offset.

It's relatively easy to clear 37s at a 2" lift if you run an offset around +20 (depending on wheel width).

To clear 37s with a 0 offset rim takes significantly more dedication to the process if you want to keep it low. You'll probably need glass fenders if you intend to have usable uptravel on 0 offset.

For us to go from +18 offset to 0 offset meant more trimming of the body mount, fully flattening the pinch weld, glass fenders, Icon on-truck adjustable uppers, finding a shop willing to do the alignment the way we need it done (using only the upper to dial in caster and camber).

 

When u say 'more' trimming of the body mount, is that more than they usually do on a bmc? I had that done already...

 

Yeah, it has to be pretty aggressive. Most normal chops don’t get into the body mount itself, just the frame horn it mounts to.

Here’s ours now. You can see I chopped part of the bolt flange even.

 

I hit a curb at about 45 mph at an angle to where it hit mostly rim and not tire and took a huge chunk of concrete out and bent the rim and alignment tabs. The lower control arm bent back probably half an inch.

 

Hot damn. I’ll have to change my comment to ‘I don’t know anyone who’s bent a lower control arm off road.’

Have you inspected the steering rack yet? I could imagine some force applied there. That must have been one hell of a jolt.

 

Yes no damage to the rack. I bought all new suspension for that side and compared parts. Only the control arm and it seemed like the cv axle were bent so I replaced it as well. It aligns good now. Caster was horrible on that side before. Oh and I bent the alignment tabs back and welded behind them.
Edit- also replaced the spindle but only because I figured the hub probably bent although it didn't look bad really. The wheel is actually good enough I'm using it as a spare.

 

Does anyone know what's up with SPC prices? I had been told I would be able to get SPC's for around $500 but I'm not seeing anything even close to that for a 1st gen. Have they raised their prices since switching to a greasable ball joint?

They are now around the same price as Camburg and only $100 less than Total Chaos.

 

I'll let my wife know...

 

Then she’ll stop. Best to stay quiet

 

So questions do UCA’s provide any lift? I ask becuz I’m running 285/55/20 with Bilsteins 5100 2.5” setting front only and want to go with taller tires 285/65/20.

 

No

 

Thank you!

 

Is the SPC the only UCA that has camber adjustment?

 

Camburg Kinetic arms
TC heim pivot arms
Icon billet arms
True Travel uppers
JBA arms
Eibach UCAs

All will give camber adjustment.