Everything you need to know about Upper Control Arms (UCA)

Hey, yeah, alerts get buried fast. I couldn’t do install myself for multiple reasons. Finally found a guy I could trust and did a stand up job. Haven’t heard about having to remove battery. Maybe if you don’t have a lift.
I can’t tell how much they make a difference cuz I did tires, arms, 6112’s and rear all at once. To me the front feels pretty much like stock but with more travel.

 

I skimmed through here and didn’t see a review on the Blitz UCAs. They look a lot like the Total Chaos. I’m going to go with the bilstein 6112 (3rd setting)/5160 soon and was thinking of going with these UCAs.

 

I do not have photos. I could look into trying to take some.

 

Id like to know this as well, as I want to add a small shim to the driver front, or go .5 shim on the driver, and .25 on the passenger.

 

These look sweet

 

Has anyone else receive their SPC UCAs with rusty welds? I picked up a set from a 3rd source seller through Amazon, probably drop ships from a warehouse, and the welds weren't completely painted due to the rusty welds. I was quite disappointed since I was going to install them this weekend. Oh well. I have already contacted the seller and I hope they get replaced with a rust free set.

 

I've been desperately searching for an answer to a question for a few months now..

I need to know which UCAs can clear certain wheel/tire combinations and which can't.

In my case I am really wanting to run 17x8.5 Method 705s with +35mm offset along with 37x12.50 tires. If I really have to, I'll switch to the same wheel as an 18x9 with +25mm offset, but I'd rather not. The lift I am looking at (Ironman4x4 foamcell pro) is a 3.5in lift that comes with billet aluminum UCAs.

I've been told by manufacturers such as JBA that their UCAs require a 4.75in backspace or less to clear the tires. Others list their max backspace as 5in, or 5.5in. But many other don't list any backspace or offset specs at all. I was hoping the "everything you need to know about UCAs" thread would list the tire clearance specs but sadly I didn't see any.

At 3.5in of lift I'm sure I'll need aftermarket UCAs, but I can't afford to buy them just to see if they fit or not.

So my question is to all you guys running larger tires and +25 or higher offset, which UCAs are you using? If you aren't running that much offset, how much clearance do you have and what else did you have to do to make the large tires fit?

I do plan on wheeling my tundra. I don't do the bro-dozer/street queen/mall crawler thing.

Thanks in advance.

 

17x8 TRD Rock Warrior wheels are +50 offset. I have 285/75/17 KO2s, and the Bilstein 6112s at the top setting with SPC UCAs.

Doing all the math from my previous wheels, I had 22mm of offset to work with (295s on +18 offset 20" wheels -> 285s on +50 offset 17" wheels) and it all worked out.

This is basically a 'slender' 34" tire and I have enough room with this setup. If I ever went to larger/wider tires I'd want to decrease offset to avoid rubbing the UCAs, either get new wheels or some spacers.

I know there's folks running 305s on Rock Warriors without any rubbing, but that's with the stock UCAs. The SPC adjustable knuckle takes up a little more space.

 

Has anyone figured out a solid fix for the OEM UCA creaking?

Is it easier to install some zerks on the stock, or swap them out?

 

Why do you think the UCA is squeeking? Usually that's far down the list of culprits.

 

When I rock the drivers side I get no squeek. When I rock the passenger I get this. (Not my vid)

Next oil change I'll ask if they can lube the UCA.

https://youtube.com/shorts/sKs5Y0gF2SQ?feature=share

 

Doubt it has anything to do with the UCA. Sounds like metal on metal.

 

check the skids

 

I'll give it a shot.

 

Passenger side was very loose. Put a good torque on it. No luck, still creaks.

Maybe I'll drop the entire thing just to eliminate it.

 

Whatever is creaking is likely suspension related, but it sounds like metal on metal. Check for places where that could be happening.

 

I'll figure out how to take a good video and upload it.

I could of swore I felt the UCA catch/vibrate in sync when I rocked it to make the noise. But who knows...

My truck looks good but this creaking has me self-conscious more than I would of thought.

 

Same exact noise here on mine as in video and you're describing. I'll be very curious what your solution is if you track it down; I've had a mechanic tell me its the passenger side UBJ on the UCA on mine but that doesn't mean he couldn't be wrong. Also mine really only does it turning the wheel left. Planning on replacing both UCAs next week. Same exact noise on my truck though...

 

Usually a worn balljoint will cause a clunk, not a squeak. I'd check the upper shock mount... make sure the nuts are tight.

 

Have a 2015 tundra purchased with lift already on. Procomp tire rod ends doesn't have a replacement and they are not in business, they had some in stock and was able to get a set, got new tires today, 35x12.5x20 couldn't do alignment because it needs uca and lca. I have no clue what to purchase that would fit up to what I have. Shop just put new rough country sway bar links, struts and shocks on it

 

Apparently the shop that did the work doesn't either... But they didn't mind taking your money...

You need to give a way better description I think, along with photos, before anyone here can help you. What is the exact lift kit you have?

 

Guy I bought it from said ready lift...but seeing as it was pro comp tire rod ends I'm assuming procomp

 

I do know it is a 6"

 

Oh, 6" is something. Best to find out all you can, take pics, and start a thread looking for advice from people with this same lift.

 

We can't get the alignment so they told us we need longer lower control arms to work with the lift to get it to line up...we was going to do the spc uppers but jot sure about lower

 

That doesn't sound right, but you need to talk to someone who knows those lifts. I'm sure there are some on this forum.

 

What was their reasoning for longer lower arms? Getting longer lower arms puts you in and incredibly strange and expensive situation.

 

Here is photos

 

Start a thread and ask for help. This isn't the right place for it.

I will say one thing... if it's an unmodded aftermarket lift and it was installed correctly, you shouldn't need UCAs or LCAs to get it aligned. Unless it was in a wreck and something got bent.

EDIT: Ok it's not "unmodded" it's a clusterfuck of parts. No wonder it doesn't work. You have maybe a Procomp 6" lift, and installed stock tie rods which are the wrong length (looks like too long), and Rough Country shocks which are probably the wrong length too... and now the shop thinks you need LCAs and UCAs as well. Do not buy more shit! Unless it's the correct length tie rod ends, which will probably fix it.

Find a better shop, and let us know how it goes.

"Have a 2015 tundra purchased with lift already on. Procomp tire rod ends doesn't have a replacement and they are not in business, they had some in stock and was able to get a set, got new tires today, 35x12.5x20 couldn't do alignment because it needs uca and lca. I have no clue what to purchase that would fit up to what I have. Shop just put new rough country sway bark links, struts and shocks on it.
Guy I bought it from said ready lift...but seeing as it was pro comp tire rod ends I'm assuming procomp
I do know it is a 6"
We can't get the alignment so they told us we need longer lower control arms to work with the lift to get it to line up...we was going to do the spc uppers but jot sure about lower"

 

Tire rod ends are pro comp. Only ones that will fit, no interchangeable ones available. That's what pro comp told me anyway