Everything Elka and How They Compare

PAC offers a 16x2.5x650 coil, so does Eibach. Eibach actually shows a 650x16 in 2.5, 3.0 and 3.75" ID.

 

Good info as always. Thanks

 

@jberry813

So the only two negatives, if that's even the right word, is the shaft is 1/8 inch less in diameter and the shock body is slightly smaller? I read your post a few times over trying to absorb everything you wrote on these. I tow every week, get in fields and places I need to work "off-road", but I'm not a hundred percent sure I even know what putting my suspension through the paces would look like. Maybe that's a good indication this set up would fit me. This year I'm on the road so much and pulling a camper behind me, that I'm averaging 5000 miles every 6 to 8 weeks. I've ordered some alcans to help with the weight in the bed of my truck and I'm trying to make sure the money I spend will be for something that stays looking nice and works well for the rest of the life of my truck. I'm pretty much sold based on your review. If I did decide to get a wild hair and do a little, nothing crazy, off roading, maybe getting up to speed or climbing let's say a beginner to moderate area, would these hold up?

I know that's a hard question to answer because you aren't sure of just how big of idiot I could be while trying to do any of that. But let's just say I would stay on the cautious side of things. What I've got now on my truck, just isn't cutting it. I just need a nudge in the right direction, if you wouldn't mind.

I take it you are still 100% happy with them?

Thanks

 

I appreciate the info!

That's good to hear about them cleaning up well. I'd like to have something that looks decent over time. It does seem like there is a trade off with every brand sold. So I'll just have to suck it up with what's more important.

I wonder if things have changed since you got yours? I was looking at their website and they say their rear shocks are good for up to 2 inches lift. Maybe Im missing something or, more likely, don't understand the concept. If they are good for 2 inches lift and I have 1.625 inches (supposedly) I'll still have issues with droop? My alcan springs will be 1 inch over stock and .625 inches for coachbuilder shackles.

This is what I've found in bold below.

 

Oh ok. I called up there to ask about their website showing the shocks were good up to two inches. Elka said their newer production rear shocks now accommodate up to 2 inches, while their first production only accommodate 1 inch. Anyway, I do appreciate the help. Looks like I'll be ordering Elka

 

I bent the eyelet while adjusting the preload,do you think it is a big concern?

 

Must have used a lot of force to bend that thing!

 

Thank you Jason! Looks like I’m gonna have to have the shop fix it when it’s due for a rebuild.
I actually broke the punch that Elka sent me during my first attempt to adjust it

 

I'm really happy I got my 650lb springs with my ADS 2.5's. $111 directly from eibach. You could probably get them cheaper elsewhere though
https://eibach.com/us/i-9085-eibach-silver-coilover-spring-3-00-i-d.html

 

@jberry813

Just wanted to let you know, I ordered a full set of Elka for my truck. Thanks again for the help.

 

Nice write up as always Jason!

 

Since the rear shocks say good for 0-2" of lift over stock would they pair well with a Deaver U748 and 3/4" shackle like Total Chaos or MCM? I may need more load capacity once I add a topper and also want to keep a bit of a rake to minimize TSS issues. Dumb question, but does the tuning of the rear shock matter if stock leaf springs vs an aftermarket leaf like the U748? I'm thinking the adjusters could be used to compensate if loaded down vs empty. Does this make sense?

 

With a topper would a progressive leaf pack work? Or would that cause the rear to top out? Thanks

 

@jberry813 any idea who sells a rebuild kit for these? Ive never rebuilt a shock before and didn't know if there was some universal kit I should look for or if I needed one specific to elka. Yeah, I know. I'm completely green to it, but willing to learn. Mine aren't quite there yet, but I've probably got 20-25k miles on my elkas now. Thanks

 

Ok, thanks!

 

Not to throw a wrench at a subject but the 1/8" difference could be huge if using the exact type steel in the rod. Problem is we have know idea if the steel Ekla uses is a different standard then the King shock. The tiny little panel screws we use on modern Boeing/Airbus aircraft can be beaten with a hammer all day and never flinch while that Home Depot 3/8" bolt of pot/cast metal can be split with a pair of vise grips. Most don't know that almost all large jet aircraft engines are literally held up by three bolts not much bigger then your middle finger. Metallurgy is king and 500 steel rods from 500 manufactures will each have its own strength. This of course doesn't mean that the Elka while slimmer are even in fact also a weaker steel then the King shocks but I just don't want the diameter being a reason not to buy. The bottom line is while new to the truck game if the Elka were showing failure rates of any significant number from all truck brands it would have shown up somewhere.

 

Thanks for the great info. After reading through it all, and many other suspension threads to boot, it seems like this is the place to ask a couple questions regarding the Elkas.

I'm looking for a lift kit that will give me around 2.5" (preferably adjustable) and allow me to run bigger tires - thinking 285/75/17s on Icon Rebounds. I want suspension that will behave well on the highway and also perform great off road. I don't plan on driving at highway speeds on washboard road or doing any serious rock crawling, but short of that I want my truck to take me wherever I point it. I do plan on carrying a camper (eyeballing the AT Overland Summit) and maybe a steel rear bumper down the line.

With all that in mind I'm thinking that the Elkas coilovers would be a good fit. What I'm not sure about is the following:
Are the standard 2.5 coilovers enough? Or should I spring for the reservoir or the DC reservoirs?
Do you guys recommend I pair UCA's with the kit?
Stick with stock leafs, go AAL/Leaf Pack, or other option in the rear?
Should I also add improved bump stops? (having a hard time figuring this one out based on the threads I've read...)

I appreciate any help despite that a lot of my questions are pretty subjective. Please feel free to educate me on anything I'm overlooking.

 

Going to recommend you spend the extra on the DC remote reservoirs. They ride really well on the street at lower settings and give you the option to dial up the compression as and when needed off pavement. As far as the extra weight from the camper and steel rear bumper, you will need to research aftermarket leaf packs to compensate. I should have skipped the hydro bumps and gone with the DuroBumps in the rear like I did in the front. With the stock leafs and the TC 3/4" lift shackles, I don't have much up-travel before the hydro bumps get involved.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. The adjustability does seem great.

The other thing I'm trying to figure out is if I can put the suspension off for a little while and just get the new shoes to begin with. I've read that 285/75/17s require a lift to not rub but I read @jberry813 's post on another thread saying you could fit 35s with stock suspension. Don't mean to take posts out of context, but I'm a little confused and would appreciate any clarification since it would be great for the budget to be able to start with the wheels and tires and figure out suspension later. Thanks

 

It looks like your leafs are flattened out or almost inverted. Stock tundra packs from 14+ seem to suck for some reason and flatten out pretty quick. Your longer shackles make the problem even worse. Neither does the extra weight of a toolbox and crap in it. That’s why you are always in your bumps.

 

That’s the size I am currently running. The critical thing is wheel offset. My wheels are powder coated Rock Warriors that have a + 50 offset, no rub at stock height except on the stock “skid plate”; easily solved by bending up the sides with a pair of channel locks. Stock upper control arms.

Fair comment. I’m a little leery of doing anything about the leaf packs due to my bitter experience with driveline vibrations on my Tacoma. But you’re right, going to have to tackle that eventually.

 

Interesting, thanks for the info. So with the +25 off set icons will I be able to fit the 285/75/17s on stock suspension and stock ucas no rubbing?

 

Can’t say. Those Icon wheels have 1” more poke than mine, so you are likely to rub in more areas with the wheels turned full lock. I took the ultra-conservative approach to this with a wheel that just barely clears the upper arms but lets me run the stock mud flaps.

 

It’ll start with driveline vibrations anyway at some point. I can tell you you’re right to be concerned. I want to put my K37s on but am tired of the axle wrap I always fought on my last tundra. If I could afford the sdhq traction bar thing I’d buy it in a second. But... I is poor.