Duster's Double Cab Build - The Daily Do-it-All

So are you saying I can replace the TRD OR coils with the 2866 OME coils while using the stock shocks and get some lift since I don’t have any spacers? Still learning about suspension.

 

No. I'm comparing the 2866s to "OE coils with the spacers." I.E. The OE coil + a spacer. I was responding to a question from @Taikowaza who was asking for a recommendation of using full aftermarket coils (2866s) vs using spacers on top of his OE coils.

You would definitely need longer shocks if you were using the 2866s (or just about any aftermarket coil).

Hope that helps. I'm here if you have any other Q's.

 

Thanks again KD for your recommendation of the OME 2866 to replace the TRD 3” lift kit’s inferior solution of “spacer on top of the stock TRD OR coil” rear spring setup.

I’ve got that OME on order (already paid for it), but it looks like it’ll be a waiting game as I don’t have an ETA yet.

Just to confirm tdsmith, KroppDuster’s recommendation to me of replacing the rear coil spring with the 2866 is only b/c I’m running the 3” TRD lift kit in the front. Without that, the OME’s would lift way too high at rear axle.

 

Great looking build!

 

Thanks!

 

Been a little while since I posted an update. Mainly because I'm near the "end" of the build out phase. I'm pretty happy with the truck as it sits now. [Knock on wood] I know that I'll laugh at this post in the future because no build is ever really "done." Once you get the bug, it's a never ending assault on one's wallet.

I'm getting to the point where I feel like all I have left on my to do list is:

• Swap out the TRD Skid Plate - I like the look of the TRD Skid plate and the protection it provides (it's got it's share of battle scars on it). However, I'm at the point where I'd prefer to have a skid plate with maintenance access points. I'm old(ish) enough now to see myself getting annoyed that I have to drop the skid plate every time I do an oil change. So I'll probably list it for sale and buy the RCI skid plate. I know the RCI skid also plays nice with the Talon cat shield that I have. I'd go with the CBI skid but, for some reason, they can't seem to ship their skid plates for anything less than $220. I suppose it's the weight since CBI's skids are 7 gauge steel vs 10 gauge steel of the RCI. RCI ships their skid plates out for $34 via FedEx. So it's the difference between $395.05 (RCI w/ shipping & taxes) vs $935.16 (CBI w/ shipping & taxes). If I damage the RCI plate beyond a ball ping hammer repair, then I can replace it with another one and still be cheaper than a single CBI skid. Seems like a no brainer to me.
• Install the Prinsu Double Cab rack - I installed the Prinsu top rack on my Leer 100XR awhile ago (See the pic below - I'll provide more in a later post). I like it. Build quality is good and the price was right. I managed to snag it during one of CBI's sales. I've got the Prinsu cab rack sitting in my garage. Just waiting for a free day so I can dedicate enough time to do the install. Thankfully, I've got a week off coming up soon so I'll tackle the install then. I want to give myself enough runway to take my time.

I recently did a fun cosmetic upgrade. I swapped out the Leer "triangle" decals with custom Toyota ones that I found on an Etsy. They're great quality and well worth the $14 that I paid for the pair. I like the vintage Toyota look. Ignore the dirt in the pics. It's been rainy and we just got a dust storm the day before I took the picture. Plus, I rarely care about keeping my truck super clean.

 

I installed the Prinsu cab rack yesterday and wrapped it up this morning. I probably had 6-7 hours into it once everything was said & done. I'm pretty comfortable doing all of my work. I have for years. Everything from body work to major engine work.

I say that to give weight to my next statement: This was tough. Maybe because I'm getting older, but this job took it out of me. There only 3 vehicle jobs that I would never do again:

• Replace floor pans on a XJ
• Replace the heater core on a XJ
• Install this roof rack.

I've got a very good Ridgid 18v Hammer Drill/Driver running 4ah batteries (I did not use it in hammer mode, of course). I also bought brand new Milwaukee Red Helix Cobalt bits in 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". The best drill bits money can buy at a big box store (to my knowledge). I also drilled slowly, stepping up in sizes, and used cutting fluid as much as I could without having it run down into the interior of the cab. Even with all of that, I snapped 2 bits and pretty much trashed the others. Each hole probably took me 35-45 minutes. It was an arduous & painstaking process. I've drilled into 40' shipping containers before that took less effort. Granted, that was with a mag drill, but still wasn't near as bad.

I think the problem here is that there are multiple layers of varying steel hardness that you have to drill through. The first layer is the just the thin body panel that is the skin of the cab. The second layer is basically the crash cage that surrounds the cab. Imagine that you're trying to drill through a very thick roll cage on a race car made out of CDS (cold drawn steel) that is 1/2" thick. That's the hardness level I'm talking about.

Short of using a mag drill for this, I'm not sure what I could've done to make the process go smoother. The one thing that I'm thankful for is the fact that I have a Double Cab and I had only 6 holes to drill instead of the 8 required for a CrewMax.

Ok...enough of my complaining. Now onto tips & pictures.

Some non-drilling related tips:

• I used Permatex Ultra Black to seal the holes though many other RTV silicones will work. I use ultra black because it stands up well to the high heat here in the Nevada desert and doesn't seem to breakdown like lower cost RTV silicones.
• I ran a bead around the riv-nut before setting in the hole.
• I also plopped down a glob of it before I set the spacers in. This is an extra sealant.
• I'll probably go back run another bead around the spacers later. Still undecided on that, but it's cheap insurance IMO.
• Light bar tip: If you're going to run a light bar up front...don't bother buying the rolling T-Nuts from places like CaliRaised or Amazon. CBI/Prinsu gives you enough extras of the t-nuts you use to mount the wind fairing to take care of this. I used those to secure the mounts for my light bar. You can see them in some of the pictures. I'll mount & wire up the light bar in the coming days, but I wanted to get the mounts on before I put the wind fairing on. I just bought a 42" Lasfit bar for now. Nothing high end.

My final opinion: I think the truck looks awesome. Especially with the Prinsu top rack on my Leer 100XR. It makes the truck look "complete." The build and powder coating quality are both very good. On par with everything else I've ordered from CBI/Prinsu in the past. I would get another rack on another truck in the future, but I would pay to have it installed next time. Whatever a shop would charge is 100% worth it, IMHO. Everything expect drilling the holes in the cab was easy.

 

Your build is awesome KD! I really like the stance. It's an effective lift that’s functional without being too much to live with day to day. Right now, I'm leaning toward the Dobinson IMS with a 2" lift all around and heavy springs in the rear to compensate for my decked, shell, gear, and camper tongue weight in the back. I’ll use Dobinson rear upper and lower control arms and panhard bar but with a cheaper front upper control arm. I’m trying to optimize my capabilities while retaining fuel economy and day to day performance. I think that’s something you hit on the nose with your double cab. All the information you’ve provided has been incredibly useful during my research phase. I will attempt to do the same as I gather funding for my build.

 

Thanks for the kudos. It's been a labor of love. I've definitely sacrificed fuel economy, but I still get 15(ish) blended. That's probably 80% highway though.

I see you're in NV as well.

I'm out west, outside of the valley. If you ever need help, advice, or a trail buddy...don't be afraid to shoot me a ping.

Cheers!

 

Right on dude, looks good!

 

First off, awesome build, very clean and functional.

I did want to ask - I have a leer 100xr as well and am interested in replacing that leer decal on each side. Do you mind linking me that etsy product via PM? Would much appreciate it!

 

Sure thing. PM is on its way with the Etsy store link.

 

Another day, another modification. I wanted to get his up before we start hitting triple digits soon and doing mods outside becomes near impossible.

I got around to installing the 42" light bar that I bought for my Prinsu rack. I've been buying Rigid lights lately, but I cheaped out on this one. I went Lasfit. The build quality is ok. It's probably the best of the rebranded Chinese products that I've seen so far. I decided to go cheap mainly because of all the lights I have on my truck, I anticipate using this one the least. It'll likely only see action in the pitch black of an overnight desert run.

Supplies that I purchased:

• $140 LASFIT 42" LED Light Bar, IP67 Waterproof Light Bar, Spot Flood Combo Beam LED Bar, Off Road Driving Light for Wrangler/Cherokee/Gladiator/F-150/Explorer/Ranger/Ram
  Lasfit 42" Light Bar
• $10 5ft Cord Cover Floor for Extension Cords, Floor Cable Cover Wire Cover to Protect Cables & Prevent Tripping, PVC Cord Hider Floor Cord Protector, Internal Channel Diameter: 0.39", Black
  Black Vinyl Floor Cord Cover - Kudos to @2020Platinum or the suggestion on this via his YT channel
• $13 TICONN 200 Pcs Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (200PCS)
  Solder/Seal Combo Connectors - First time I've used these.

The above are NOT affiliate links BTW. Just sharing what I used.

All in all, I like how this rounds out the look of the roof rack. It mates up nicely with the Trigger Six Shooter system (which I HIGHLY recommend to anyone...I'm not an affiliate BTW).

Starting with the finished product to show out it all looks:


I lobbed off the Lasfit connector so I could connect the light bar to my Trigger Six Shooter system. This is setting up the connectors & heat shrink:



First time using these type connectors. They're easy. Thats the biggest positive. Not super impressed with how the solder wicked throughout the connection (or lack thereof), but it'll do for now:


Connection made & sealed with double heat shrink:



Testing the electrical connection before I get everything up on the roof rack:


Cable management along the window using the PVC floor cord cover. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than the KC Lite "Hide a cord" system and does the same thing. Time will tell how long the 3M tape will last in the 115-degree desert heat. Shout out to @2020Platinum for this tip from his YT channel. You really don't notice it when you look at the truck:


Looking down where the cord makes its way into the engine bay. I tucked it under the plastic trim, and it fit well there:


Look from inside the engine bay where the cord comes in and how I secured it with a zip tie:


Final look at the wiring & the connection to the Trigger system:


Trigger switch panel that I've had installed for a while. The roof light bar is the 1st switch position now, which is the only space I have left. I need to pull out the switch labels and get it marked. This "completes" my lighting setup...for now:


Pic of the light bar on...during the day. haha. Looking forward to testing it at night:


Desert Does It seat jackers are next on the mod list.

 

@DesertDoesIt Seatjackers went in today. Solid product from a company just on the other side of the mountain range from me. They make an awesome product and I can’t recommend them enough.

Very simple install. I’m 6’ 1” so I ended up testing a few shim combos on the front and rear of the seat. My chosen combo is 2 x .375” shims (3/4” total) up front and 1 x .25” shim on the back side of the seat. My seats are now dialed in perfectly.

All you need is a T50 Torx, 17mm socket, a torque wrench, and some blue thread locker for good measure. Final torque is 27 ftlbs. Easy peasy.

If I had any regrets, it’s that I didn’t purchase their Multi-Mount Panel (MMP). Really wish I had in order move my small fire extinguisher into the cab. The functionality it adds looks solid.

Pics of the install below. Ignore the dog hair. When you’ve got a lab mix…you end up just embracing the dog hair. Haha.

 

Now we need @DesertDoesIt to make an air compressor bracket for under the seat, I mean look at all that room for activities.

 

Definitely a lot of room under there when you have the poor man’s seats like I do. Haha. No motors or anything to take up room.

 

RCI Skid Plate Installation

Summary: The install wasn't as straight forward as I had hoped, based on RCI's website description. There were 2 complications:

1. My 3/4" sway bar drop bracket from my Icon Coilover lift caused the sway bar to contact the skid plate when installed following RCI's instructions. NOTE: RCI's website says that the skid plate is compatible with all 1" - 3" coilover lifts. I took that to mean that they had taken into consideration the sway bar drop that most lift kits include. If you have the OEM TRD 3" lift, then you're safe to install this since your sway bar will be outside of the skid. However, I have an Icon coilover lift with a 3/4" sway bar drop bracket.
2. My CBI full bumper caused interference with the front lip of the skid plate.

Solutions:

1. Sway Bar Interference: I ended up utilizing some poly spacers that I had on hand. I used the same spacers when I reinstalled my OEM TRD skid plate after my suspension lift. The Icon lift kit comes with a 3/4" sway bar drop bracket. I used RCI's included 1/2" spacer PLUS my own 3/4" spacer (Pic #4) in order to drop the front of the skid plate enough where the sway bar wouldn't contact the plate during articulation. Unlike the TRD lift, there isn't enough room to mount the sway bar OUTSIDE of the RCI skid plate with the Icon lift, so it had to go underneath using the spacers.
2. CBI Bumper Interference: The front of the RCI skid plate has a 90-degree lip that is meant to butt up against the front of the radiator cross member. The CBI bumper sits right up to the cross member, so there is no room for this "lip" to slot in between the bumper and the cross member. Thankfully, dropping the plate with the spacers was enough to remove this as an issue.

Conclusion:

• Even with the required modifications, I still think this is worth it. The maintenance access points (oil filter & oil drain plug) are worth it. Plus, as I mentioned below, I like how it blends with the undercarriage and doesn't stand out like a sore thumb like the silver OEM TRD plate.

Pic #1 - Install finished. I actually like the look of it compared to the silver OEM TRD Plate. The OEM plate stood out too much for me. Just my taste though.


Pic #2: The skid plate works well with the Talon Cat Shield, in case anyone is curious:


Pic #3 - Here's a front view of the spacers:


Pic #4 - Here is an up-close look at the spacers I used plus the interference with the CBI bumper. The GREEN is the RCI supplied 1/2" spacer. The YELLOW is my 3/4" poly spacer that I stacked on top. As for the bumper interference, you can see the "lip" on the skid plate in RED. The BLUE is the bottom of the CBI bumper. The lip is supposed to slide up and sit in front of the cross member, which is exactly where the CBI bumper is. Thankfully, with the additional spacers...the bumper no longer interfered was no longer an issue. This required using some longer bolts versus the RCI supplied bolts.


Pic #5 - At the two middle skid plate fasteners I also had to utilize some spacers. I was running low on spacers so I had to improvise. One 1/2" spacer plus two 304 SS washers.


Pic #6 - Here is a picture showing the sway bar clearance now. It's tight. However, I did check it at full droop by using my floor jack. There is just enough room to clear. Now, if I'm wheeling hard it will probably still contact. Just for normal trails though…this should be okay.


Pic #7 - Another look at the sway bar clearance.

 

It's been a while since I've posted any build updates.

I've got 2 projects on the horizon for the truck:

• Installation of a KG-1000 Plus radio - I'll be doing a write up on my install on this and I'm excited to get this installed. Just waiting on my purchase to arrive from BuyTwoWayRadios.com. This should complete my comms & trail electronics setup.
• Mounting of various gear on my Prinsu racks - I've been waiting on the Apache waterproof cases to go on sale again at Harbor Freight. I love Roam & Pelican, but I can't justify the price of those brands. I'm going to pick up 2 of the Apache 9800 cases and mount them up top. I've also been carrying around my 7-year-old ARB TRED traction boards in the bed since I bought the truck. It's time to move them up onto the Prinsu. I had them mounted to a Gobi Rack on my 4Runner for years. They're a little weathered but still solid.

More to come. Hopefully, I'll be able to do the install over the 4th of July holiday.

KG-1000 Plus GMRS Radio:

 

I performed the installation of my GMRS radio in the truck over the weekend. Overall, the install went well. I probably spent an hour alone just laying out the system in the truck to figure out the best cable routing options. After that was done, the rest of the installation was pretty straightforward. I like how it turned out and the reception & clarity is great. I'm next to a thousand acres of BLM land and I was able to pick a lot of GMRS traffic. Plus, there is a repeater on a mountain top about 25 miles away and I was able to hear repeater traffic clear as a bell.

Products I used (no affiliate links...100% purchased on my own):

• KG-1000 Mobile GMRS Radio - Purchased from BuyTwoWayRadios.com
• $50 Midland MXTA25 3DB MicroMobile® Compatible Gain Ghost Antenna – 3.5” Tall with 1.5” Base Diameter – Low Profile GMRS NMO Connection
  Midland MXTA25 3DB Gain Ghost Antenna - Purchased from Amazon
  
• $30 Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable with NMO Connector – CB Antenna Cable Extension – 6 Meters (19 ft) with Removable UHF Connection
  Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable with NMO Connector - Purchased from Amazon
  
• Sherpa Equipment Antenna Mount - Purchased direct from Sherpa's website

Here is the final look with the display unit mounted in the console cubby. I wanted a clean look that was easily accessible. Ignore all the dust in my truck. I don't detail it very often (maybe once a year).

Last thing first...here's the final look:



Power Cable Routing:

• I routed the power cabled from the interior of the cab through the firewall grommet on the driver's side. The grommet is easily accessible from the interior and tucked up under the cowl within the engine bay so it's unlikely water will intrude through the opening. I kept the hole very small. If I ever get worried about moisture, I'll hit it with some silicone.
• 2nd pic below is the wire fish that I used to pull the power cables through the grommet. I had some coated steel cabling that I used. Pushed it through the grommet, taped the power cables to it, and then pulled it back through the tiny hole.
• 3rd pic shows the grommet routing from inside the cab. It's located on the DS, up on the far left near the body. You can see where the factory has cut circular hole in the firewall/sound dampening blanket to accommodate the grommet. You can orient yourself on that to find the grommet behind it.

Power/Main Body Unit placement:

• 1st Pic: I installed the main body of the radio under the driver's seat. This is the portion of the unit that houses 2 of the 3 speakers (the 3rd speaker is in the handset), the PSU, and the antenna connection.
• I also put the mounting bracket on the unit to keep it off the carpet for maximum airflow. On the bottom of the bracket, I put a few stripes of hook & loop so that it stays in place.
• In this pic, you can also see where the black antenna cable pops up from under the carpet. The carpet is split there from the factory and just underneath that is a drain grommet where I routed the antenna cable. It's very easy & convenient to get to from the underside of the truck.
• 2nd Pic: For the power cabling, I routed it under the door sill trim plate, and it pops out to run under the seat. I kept the connector visible so that it was easily accessible in case I needed to service the unit or disconnect it from power.

Display Unit Mounting & Cable Routing:

• As I mentioned, I wanted a clean look to the install. I don't use the cubby very much, and it ends up collecting random things that I toss in there. So, this area was perfect for me.
• The KG-1000 radio I bought has the ability to have a remote-mount for the display, which is really nice if you want a clean install. You usually only see this feature on higher end, HAM radio setups.
• 1st & 2nd Pics: I used a small step bit to drill into the plastic of the cell phone "cradle." I don't have the factory QI charger, so there is nothing behind that. If you have the charger, you can still mount there but you'll have to come up from the bottom. I routed the display cable from the main unit under the driver's seat up under the console trim and out from behind the cell phone "cradle."
• 2nd Pic: Up close shot from above showing the location of the display unit. The RJ45 cable connects right into the back of it. I mounted it to this area using from 3M VHB double-sided tape.
• Helpful tip: You can see I had to remove all the trim around the console so that I could get my hands back there. This allowed me to route the RJ45 cable. AJT Designs has a helpful video on YouTube that I used to learn how to remove all of these trim pieces: https://youtu.be/0p0-j9Ea1OU

Antenna Placement:

• I installed the Midland antenna on my Prinsu rack. Reception is great and the antenna is already pre-tuned to GMRS. No trimming, tuning, or fiddling with SWR meter needed like the old days.
• I used an antenna mount from Sherpa Equipment with the drop T-nuts to make the install easy. The Sherpa mount works perfect for any rack that uses the standard extruded aluminum cross rails.
• The antenna runs down the back side of the cab, between the cab & my Leer topper, so it's hardly noticeable.

I hope this helps someone. Happy to answer any questions you might have if you want to tackle this yourself.

 

Garmin Mini 2 Dash Cam install - I swapped out my 2-year-old, Amazon-special (no name) dash cam for a Garmin Mini 2. I was looking for a clean install that was similar to how the Toyota OE Camera is tucked up near the mirror, but without the hefty price tag. I used the Dongar Technologies harness to tap into the empty power harness above the roof console. My truck doesn't have the auto-dimming mirror or Homelink, but it still had the power harness up there. I think it turned out awesome:

 

2 upgrades this weekend:

• White Lettering on the Toyota grill
• Organized & got all of my cases & mountable gear up on the roof using Apache 9800 cases from HF.

White Lettering: I've always been a big fan of the white "Toyota" on classic Toyota models like the Land Cruiser and even more contemporary models like the FJ. So, I popped on the TuffSkinz white lettering on the Toyota grill. I think it looks good. I'm 95% happy with this. I kind of which they were matte white instead of glossy, but that's a minor nitpick. They look good and overall, I'm happy with them.



Roof rack storage & gear: I ended up finally organizing my all of the gear that had been sitting in the back of my truck since the Leer 100XR went on.

• Apache 9800 Weatherproof Case - Over the last 2 weekends, Harbor Freight finally had their Apache 9800 cases on sale again. Down from $170 to $120 so I jumped on them & bought 3. I wanted a slim line, weatherproof case for the roof racks, but I could never justify spending $300 for a Pelican, Vault, or Rome case. Dollar for dollar, I'm a big fan of these. All of my recovery gear (tree saver, snatch blocks, D-rings, snatch strap, etc), air compressor, air lines, snow chains, and tools went up on the roof.
• I've had a set of TRED Recovery boards since ~2016. They're basically the other Australian recovery board. haha. Not as famous or popular in the US as Maxtrax, but these things have stood the test of time for me. They were stored on the Gobi rack on top of my 2012 4Runner from 2016 until we traded the 4Runner in for the Tundra for my wife's new car in 2022. So, they've seen and withstood the elements. Thankfully, I've only had to use them 4 times in those 6 years.
• To secure it all, I bought a set of 8 Master Locks all keyed alike from Amazon.

I used 1/4-20 roll in T-Nuts to secure the cases to the roof with 3/4" long bolts. These were the PERFECT length. I've seen some people use wing nuts or plastic handle nuts, but I wanted something low profile that my gear wouldn't snag on. I also used purple Vibratite thread locker on them all. I didn't seal them with silicone since the holes are on the bottom. If I ever see water intrusion, I'll run some black RTV over them to seal them up.

 

First, this thread is awesome in the information it provides for suspension options.

Was this because ICON did not have a 2.5 shock design when you were going through this build? I ask because I was looking at the ICON website and it appears they do have 2.5 options now. (I'm considering the Tundra vs. F150).

I was curious about this as well - but I think my build would be more for towing/trailering. I would think the OME 2866 (progressive) spring would have less of a chance of maxing out the shocks like the OME 2864 (linear 320) when paired to the ICON 2.5 remote reservoir rear shocks?

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com...-0-15-23-sequoia-0-3-rear-25-vs-cdcv-rr-pair/

 

Would you know what the stock rear coil spring rates are?

 

Thanks. I've gotten a lot of help from other build threads in other forums, so I'm glad I can help others.

Correct. They did not have any rear shocks available that were larger than a 2" shock body at the time. I ordered my kit in June/July of 22, right after they became available, so it was VERY early. At the time, there weren't many options for suspension lifts. At the time I ordered, there was only Adventure Motors (with their adhoc kit of Fox & self-fabricated stuff), a few Icon kits, and a basic King kit.

On a side note...if you opt for the F-150...grab the 5.0L. Ford has been making that motor for a long time.

While towing or trailering, it would most likely be fine since you would have plenty of tongue weight to compress the rear suspension. Otherwise, you might end up in the same situation as I described that you quoted already: maxing out & damaging the shocks. The 2866 will lift the rear beyond the 1" of lift the Icon's are rated for.

If you really want RR-style shocks, Dobinsons has RR-style shocks for up to 4" of rear lift you could check out. Just couple them with extended bump stops.


On a side note: I'm still running all of this a year later. Overall, I'm pretty happy. I'll probably swap out the Icon coilovers up front in the future. They only offered a single spring rate up front when I ordered and it's not quite enough for me. I'm near the max preload (as far as I want to go without killing my up travel) because of the weight of my bumper & winch. When I take them off in another 40k to 50k miles for a rebuild, I'll see if Icon has any heavier spring options. If not, I might swap out for something else.

 

Well it took a *REALLY* long time to get them but the pair of OME 2866 arrived yesterday! Having them installed on Thursday. Will be very good to have the OEM shock with plastic spacer replaced with these amazing progressive coils. They are ultra beefy and incredibly well built. Will post before and after pics and ride report. Cheers!

 

Whoa. That DID take a long time. Where did you order them from? Desert Rat?

 

Rogue Off-road. I think they forgot my order from back in February. After I wrote to them with a reminder they shipped immediately. Still waiting on my Banks pedal monster from them.

 

I had the OME 2866 rear coil springs put in today and a strange result. I seemed to gain 2" from the coil spring install. I asked for the TRD lift kit spacers back, and the installers said that there were no spacers. Either they left the spacers in there, or the dealership forgot to install my spacers when installing the TRD lift kit in the first place.

Here is what the OME 2866 look like underneath the truck: can you tell if that is the spacer on top? I had thought it was RED, but all I see is a black part that may or may not be the 2' spacer. Thanks for your thoughts/advice on this one!

The truck seems to drive great, I can tell a major difference in the back in terms of stability and drivability, I feel like I can load a LOT MORE without sag. But, the rear is now about 2" higher than the front. Is this way that it's supposed to be, or are there spacers on the front end too that the dealership may have forgotten to put on?

Thx guys! - T

 

Thanks for the skid plate info

 

Happy to help!