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Duster's Double Cab Build - The Daily Do-it-All

Discussion in '3rd Gen Builds (2022+)' started by KroppDuster, Aug 1, 2022.

  1. Dec 7, 2022 at 2:42 PM
    #31
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Thanks for the kudos. I'm loving how it's turning out. I've only got a couple upgrades left before it's "finished." (Famous last words...I know).

    2 reasons I opted for the Dobinsons over the Icons:
    • The Dobsinons are a 2.5" shock body vs. the 2.0 of the Icon. Better handling, heat management, etc.
    • The Icons are listed as being good up to a 1" rear lift. The Dobinsons support up to a 3" lift in the rear.
     
  2. Dec 7, 2022 at 4:07 PM
    #32
    naddysaad

    naddysaad New Member

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    Just out of curiosity what would happen if you used the icons on the rear with springs that gave a 2 inch lift in the rear?
     
  3. Dec 7, 2022 at 4:15 PM
    #33
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Most of the time? Nothing bad will happen. 90% of the time while driving your shocks are rebounding in the middle 40% of their overall range.

    However, if you go off road then 2 things can happen:
    • The shocks will bottom out before the suspension can and will artificially limit your down travel.
    • Max out your shocks often enough and you run the risk of damage to the shock seals.
     
  4. Jan 16, 2023 at 7:46 AM
    #34
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    Did you have the dobinsons 169 rear springs installed and then went to OME 2866, why did you change and are they both 2” lift? I can’t decide which to go with.
     
  5. Jan 16, 2023 at 8:53 AM
    #35
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    I did not have the Dobinsons installed. I went straight from the Toyota rear springs to the Old Man Emu (OME). The Dobinsons were not available (and still aren't...according to their website) at the time of purchase. That was the deciding factor for me.

    Yes. Both the Dobinsons and OME coils net a 2" lift in the rear. The Dobinsons are a constant rate spring and the OME are a progressive spring.

    Totally up to you. My experience with the OME coils has been great since they were installed 2 months ago. I've taken several off road trips since then to Utah (St. George/Hurricane/Springdale) and then to Arizona (Williams/Sedona/Flagstaff) and they've performed well. Whether to go progressive or constant rate spring is really your deciding factor and that all depends what your payload is going to be.

    Happy to answer any other Q's you want to throw my way. Hope this helps!
     
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  6. Jan 16, 2023 at 10:04 AM
    #36
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    I won’t be doing campers, steel bumpers or pulling a trailer full time so I won’t have constant load. I load it up when I need to I’ve had 30 bag of concrete and I’ve had 25 rolls of sod at different times but nothing crazy. I want a good stance without the rear end being too stiff and bouncy. I’m comparing the TRD lift that has 3” front and 2” rear lift, if I went with a 2” rear spring and adjust the front down for some rake to get the stance. Is the pan hard bar necessary when it’s not used on the TRD lift? I found OME on rouge off road and dobinsons site has the 223V available. I’ve had the 3” OME lift on my 4Runner and Bilstein 5100 on my Tacoma, I want this new tundra to look badass and be capable of being badass. Thanks for the help I can DM next time too
     
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  7. Jan 16, 2023 at 12:31 PM
    #37
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Sounds like you'll be fine with a progressive rate spring. I'll have my Leer bed cap (280 lbs) and I always carry about 100 lbs of gear in the bed. Even with all of that, I'm expecting my progressive springs to do just fine.

    As for the panhard bar, is it necessary? Nope. Not with a 2" lift.

    I added it for 3 reasons:
    • It's not a ton of money (considering the rest of my setup) so it was worth it to add it at same time to minimize labor.
    • I wanted the flexibility to go higher than 2" in the rear. Do I have immediate plans to go higher? No. Do I want the option in the future? Yes.
    • Lifting the ride height of any solid axle design will always move the rear axle. It might not affect the alignment geometry enough that it can't be put into factory specs...but it will move the axle over. I can't stand seeing trucks that drive with a constant "crab walk." That's just me. At 2" of lift, it wouldn't be noticeable to 90% of people out there.
     
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  8. Jan 16, 2023 at 1:12 PM
    #38
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    Great thanks. I’ll let you know what I end up with for springs, I’m going to go with Elka 2.0 only because they are $1300 cheaper then the 2.5 and I’m trying to reign in some spending.
     
  9. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:21 PM
    #39
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    I’m in the same boat trying to understand which rear coil springs to replace my stock Toyota TRD OR coils (and TRD lift kit spacer) with. KroppDuster you clearly know your stuff and that you went with the OME 2866 progressive means they must be great. Not that it (really) matters but I prefer black (OME) to Dobinson aquamarine on my recently blacked out out truck! Also have ARB/OME shocks and coils on my 4runner, have been great. Do you have an OME chart listing the different models and specs? Could only find an Australian one, everything in metric (blasphemy!!) ;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
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  10. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:27 PM
    #40
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Thanks for the kudos! Cruise Outfitters has a comparison table for the OME that I reference quite a bit:

    http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_coils.html

    Top table is metric but the second table is US standard.

    This should save you a bit of time having to do the conversion! Cheers!
     
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  11. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:37 PM
    #41
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    I’ve since ordered, TRD lift UCA, dobinsons rear IMS shocks, OME 2866 springs, I already have the icon bump stops front/rear. I’m going to order the 2.0 Elka 2-3” adjustable front shocks and yota extended brake lines. I have a credit at my local dealership that I’ll use for them to install and wheel alignment then I’ll have to stop spending money on this truck until next winter.
     
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  12. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:39 PM
    #42
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    This is great thank you! I really appreciate this imperial chart! So sorry to impose on you but I require more of your wisdom KD! Have been reading linear vs progressive and I’m not yet enlightened. My own lack of intelligence or effort I’m not sure which!! ;)

    I tow a 28.5’ trailer at times, other times I have hunting, fishing and other gear loaded in the flatbed, sometimes it’s empty. I’d still like to have a good stance matching the front TRD lift height regardless of what’s going on w/cargo or towing.

    Not to mention looking for smooth ride soaking up the off-road. A tall order! I’m going to stick with OME so that may make it easier. I have a credit with Rogue I am hoping to use, are any of these three OME coils they have in stock contenders? They are the OME 2860, 2862 2863, 2864. I owe you one!!!
     
  13. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:40 PM
    #43
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    So you went for the 2866 also! They sound really good. I look forward to your report!!
     
  14. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:50 PM
    #44
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    I was going to buy one of those springs from rouge offroad but I found the 2866 in Canada so it’s much cheaper then buying stuff in the states. I like the aqua look on dobinsons springs it’s brand recognition
     
  15. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:54 PM
    #45
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    I would probably go with either the 63s or the 64s, if they don’t have the 66s on hand. If I towed a lot, I would probably lean toward the 64s but they’ll probably yield slightly more than 2” in the rear. They have a slightly higher spring rate than the 66s. It really depends on the tongue weight of the trailer and how often you tow it. Otherwise, if we were just talking hunting/over landing gear in the bed only without much towing…then I’d probably lean toward the 63s.

    As you’re probably suspecting at this point, you’re entering into the finer points of rear coils that start to get very specific to individual situations. I.E. How much payload you carry, how big of a trailer you have, the tongue weight of said trailer, how often you tow it, etc. Those factors make the difference between something like the 240lb 2863 or a 320lb 2864.
     
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  16. Jan 22, 2023 at 1:59 PM
    #46
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    I don’t mind the aqua for the Dobinsons at all. It’s kinda like King shocks. That little pop of color under a truck makes for nice brand recognition. When you notice blue of the Kings, yellow of Icon, aqua of Dobinsons, or another color…you know something’s different on that truck. It wouldn’t matter to 90% of people but to car people…if you know you know.
     
  17. Jan 22, 2023 at 2:09 PM
    #47
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    BTW, it’s awesome to be able to learn from you both KD and YB. This is BA. Thank you!

    I can see how the aqua could be cool! My truck is now army green, black and red and I think she’s staying that way lol ;) Since I can’t seem to find the red Dobinson’s (unicorn except for coilovers?), makes it easy to choose OME!

    Thanks KD for your thoughts between 63 and 64. Tricky to choose. Something I noticed on the chart- the 2866 seem to be the only progressive OMEs, having a 240-300 spring rate compared to either 250 for the 63, or 320 for the 64.

    What is the advantage of the progressive on the 66, is it better for those of us with variable towing or cargo in terms of “absorbing” load with less sag etc? My brain is warming up! Haha

    “What kind of EMU are you!!” Awesome video ;)
    https://youtu.be/SsU8c8QSTD8

    4831DAEE-4BA5-43C6-B274-14DE47D26A0D.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
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  18. Jan 22, 2023 at 2:18 PM
    #48
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    Yes that’s my understanding, I also watched some youtube on progressive VS linear springs here’s one video. One thing to think of is the rear spring is going to be one of the easiest things to change out and cheapest to buy so if in the future something better comes then you can change up.

    https://youtu.be/8FG7ZAJfWus
     
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  19. Jan 22, 2023 at 2:50 PM
    #49
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    Cool installation video with discussion and major praise for the OME progressive coils. He removes a set of Dobinson linears and replaces w/the 2866

    https://youtu.be/d5yg0v8hAj8
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
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  20. Jan 22, 2023 at 3:40 PM
    #50
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    I’ve run both progressive and linear coils on various builds. The main deciding factor has usually been towing and gear.

    If I’m towing a lot, or if I was going to have a big overlanding setup (something like an Alucab, Pacific, etc)…then I would go linear.

    Right now, I went progressive since all I’m planning on running with for awhile is my Leer 100Xr and a couple of totes with my EDC truck gear: recovery stuff, air compressor, snow chains (during winter), traction boards, a mechanics toolset, and an empty cooler. The Leer weighs ~280lbs and I probably have another 100lbs of gear. I should get the Leer in the next week or two so I’ll see how much additional compression it puts on the springs.

    @Yaboy is 100% correct. Springs are (relatively speaking) cheap. Each pair is usually about $250 which makes them easy to test and swap out. If you find a pair isn’t a high enough spring rate for your needs, then it’s pretty easy to swap them out to a higher spring rate. I’ve swapped out springs before because my needs changed. It’s a fairly common thing to do as your needs change over time. You might get the “bug” big time and eventually upgrade to a full blown expedition setup like @evergreenoffroad is rocking. Haha. He’s probably kitted out with the best 3rd Gen DC setup out there right now. #DoubleCabGoals
     
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  21. Jan 22, 2023 at 4:09 PM
    #51
    Taikowaza

    Taikowaza New Member

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    Thanks Yaboy and KroppDuster you’ve helped me a lot today. The progressive sounds perfect for me as well except when towing, but I’m not towing all the time and when I do it’s for a day at a time at most.

    Do you think that the 2866 would be a solid upgrade over the stock TRD OR coils and the spacer, and basically the same height as those?

    If so it’s a no-brainer for me and I’ll pick up a pair right away, to have installed while I’m adding the sway bar spacers and skidplate spacers. Is there anything else I should consider doing to “upgrade” the TRD lift further while this work is happening?

    Thanks very much again gentlemen!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
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  22. Jan 22, 2023 at 4:50 PM
    #52
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    I would definitely do the 2866s over the OE coils with the spacers. You won’t net any lift but the ride quality would be better. Without a doubt.

    Sounds like you’ve got everything covered so far. Give us progress updates & pics.
     
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  23. Jan 23, 2023 at 6:21 AM
    #53
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    can we see more pics of you’re stance. I measured my height and I’m at 39” front and back on stock 265/70/18 tires
     
  24. Jan 23, 2023 at 7:55 AM
    #54
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Sure. Here are some additional pics, but I'm not sure they'll provide much more than the pics I've posted already. Some of these might've been posted already.

    I did take some measurements yesterday as I get prepared for the Leer bed cap to come in. I'm expecting it to arrive in the next 5-7 business days so I removed the Toyota tri-fold cover (it'll be for sale soon BTW for anyone reading) plus all of my gear. Here are my measurements in the rear, keep in mind tha tI measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender.
    • With OEM tonneau (~80 lbs) & gear (~140 lbs): 25.25"
    • Tonneau & all gear removed (empty bed): 26.25"
    I gained about an inch with everything removed, which aligns to the spring rate of the 2866s. They're 240 lbs on the top end of the progressive rate and I removed about 220 lbs worth of payload. I'm expecting the Leer & gear to weigh in around 350 lbs total, so I'm anticipating my new measurement to be around 24.5" once it's all said & done. Once I know for sure, I'll measure to see how much rake I still have (if any) and then adjust my front Icons up as needed.

    Side note: All of these pics are with the OEM tonneau cover and gear in the back so they're at the 25.25" measurement.


    upload_2023-1-23_7-39-59.jpg
    upload_2023-1-23_7-40-34.jpg
    upload_2023-1-23_7-41-18.jpg
    upload_2023-1-23_7-41-47.jpg
     
  25. Jan 23, 2023 at 9:59 AM
    #55
    Yaboy

    Yaboy New Member

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    I just measured centre hub to bottom fender and I got 23.25” on all 4 sides with the front block and Toyota trifold cover. Should work out to 24” front and 25.25” rear with new suspension but we’ll see.
     
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  26. Jan 23, 2023 at 3:45 PM
    #56
    evergreenoffroad

    evergreenoffroad More Trees / Less Screens

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    Thanks for the shoutout @KroppDuster

    If you need any suspension help just let me know. We are Dobinsons and ARB dealers and I've tried half a dozen configurations already with my suspension. Shoot me a DM anytime!
     
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  27. Jan 28, 2023 at 4:31 PM
    #57
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Two things happened today. I installed the Ultra-Neo custom seat covers from NW Seat Covers out of Canda. Solid product. $250 shipped and I got them in 4 business days.

    I also had my Leer 100XR installed today. Really impressed with the build quality. After I had the shell installed, I realized how dirty my truck was so I took it to a self wash. I gave the topper a pretty heft spray from all directions with the wand and did not notice any water intrusion.

    Seat Covers:
    upload_2023-1-28_16-27-3.jpg

    Leer 100XR Shell:
    upload_2023-1-28_16-29-27.jpg

    Note: There is some drips of water in the lower right corner of this pic. They came in when I flipped up the windoor. I think the water was still in the track from the car wash and it drained into the bed when the window is flipped up. I did not notice it there before.
    upload_2023-1-28_16-30-2.jpg

     
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  28. Jan 31, 2023 at 8:55 AM
    #58
    PermaFrostTRD

    PermaFrostTRD Tumescent Member

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    This is an awesome build. Great looking truck and I appreciate the ability to not only do the work yourself (since I dont have that ability and just think it's cool) *and* your commitment to documenting with photos so well. Has got to be time consuming. Even the small "mods" and changes I make to my truck, I'm such a basket case of worry I'm going to tear something up that I rarely can stop and take a photo when I do.
     
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  29. Jan 31, 2023 at 9:10 AM
    #59
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Thanks! I appreciate the compliment quite a bit. I've leaned on a lot of build threads for my old Taco & 4Runner so I wanted to pay it forward by documenting stuff on my Tundra. Especially since the 3rd Gen platform is so new. If I can save someone a future headache, then it's all worth it.
     
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  30. Feb 13, 2023 at 12:34 PM
    #60
    KroppDuster

    KroppDuster [OP] Out with the old and in with the...older?

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    Added dual Swing Cases to the rear over the weekend. Not a huge mod, but I'm really impressed with them. At first, I thought they were a little gimmicky but now that I've used them for a couple of days...I think the design & utility are pretty awesome.

    upload_2023-2-13_12-26-25.jpg

    • Quick note: If you're like me and you use a 2x6 as a bed divider, there's still plenty of room behind the wheel wells & the swing case to allow you to continue using it. See photo. It doesn't sit in the bed "slots" any more since those are covered by the Swing Cases, but this still works since it rests between the wheel well & the last "slot".
    upload_2023-2-13_12-26-45.jpg

    A couple of install notes:

    • Pull straight out when removing the rear taillights. You remove 2x 10mm (2nd pic...circled in red) bolts holding on the lights and then pull straight back. They're held in place with 2 friction pins in these 2 spots:
    upload_2023-2-13_12-29-0.jpg
    upload_2023-2-13_12-32-1.jpg

    • Use needle nose pliers to remove the 3 pins holding the harness to the taillight housing (circled in red).
    • The 2 friction pins noted above are circled in Yellow.
    • The wiring harness is a simple push connection in Blue.
    upload_2023-2-13_12-30-43.jpg

    • Don't stress too much about making sure everything is perfectly lined up. There are a lot of adjustments when installing these. One helpful adjustment that I haven't seen many folks discuss is the latch adjustment. Where the swing case "latches" to the side of the bed, there are 2 bolts that you can adjust the latch up & down to compensate for how you install the main mounting plate. Very help to make sure the cases latch smoothly.
    upload_2023-2-13_12-33-28.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2023
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