[DIY] Replacing driving/serpentine/timing belt (and idler pulleys)

This is my next project , thanks OP for the write ip.

 

Followed this as well as this video found on Youtube and replaced my serpentine belt no problem… that is other than finding a way to get the allen key into the tension pulley to keep the tension loose — jimmy-ing up a rig to take care of that part took me longer than anything else.

Youtube video I used:
https://youtu.be/QiUgvv3OcNg

 

When it starts squeaking, how long is it safe to drive on?

 

Visually inspect belt for tears, splitting, abrasion, worn areas, and other damage.

 

Recommended by toyota to replace around 100k miles, and tundras are known to have OE belts that go sooner than most other vehicles — research shows the old GoodYear Gatorback belt was top of the line but no longer produced — I purchased a Continental brand belt to replace mine from Autozone for ~$50 and comes with a 36month warranty— not 100% sure when it’s necessary but if it’s squeaking, not a bad idea to go ahead and replace if you have the cash, and only takes around 30min-1hour

Hope this helps!

 

I replaced both pulleys and belt a couple weeks ago. The easiest job I have ever done on a vehicle. Thankful that Tundras have some room in the engine bay.

 

@Spvrtan - How are the Dayco pulleys holding up? I've got a squeal that I haven't been able to isolate yet. Took the truck to Toyota due to the extended warranty I have and they first changed the drive belt tensioner assembly. The noise was still present so they kept looking and then ended up changing the fan bracket as well. The squealing is still present, but maybe not as much as it was before. They said they checked everything else over...I'm wondering if it may be the #1 idler pulley or the supercharger pulley making the noise. Seems simple enough to swap and not relatively expensive to change them out.

According to your original post I'd need the Dayco 89502 for the #1 idler pulley and then Dayco 89016 for the supercharger pulley. Do you know why the Dayco supercharger pulley is so much cheaper than the TRD/Magnuson idler pulley? SCOL lists it for $168.99 https://superchargersonline.com/product/trd-magnuson-76mm-idler-for-5-7l/ and the Toyota replacement is $143.46 (Part# PTR29-34084). The Dayco lists for only $23.00. Just curious if there is much difference between the Dayco compared to TRD/Toyota and curious to see how yours help up over time. Thanks for the detailed write up also, I'll be using that as a guide to replace those two pulleys.

 

[/QUOTE]

The tips above are great, and were a big help. However, On my 2011 5.7 (no S/C) the idler pully and the tensioner pulley are not the same. The tensioner pulley is the only smooth pulley that rides the back of the belt. My idler pulley (IP #1 in your drawing) is a ribbed pulley and it should be because it rides on the same side of the belt as the A/C compressor pulley just below it.

The AZ Duralast "Idler Pulley" 231016 doesn't have the correct profile to work on the original factory tensioner on my 2011 either. The inner profile of the pulley does not allow for the centering washer to fit down into the pulley on the smooth side. That washer is critical as the bolt is considerably smaller than the inner diameter of the bearing. I just had to put the original tensioner pulley back in place and go back to AZ for the correct ribbed idler pulley.

 

FWIW - if your tensioner pulley bolt has a shoulder on the pulley and a bolt like the one shown here, the AZ 231016 should work for you. Mine has a shoulder washer instead so this pulley wouldn't work for me without buying the kit that included the bolt.

 

Awesome write up.. But I have one question before I start my 2013 tundra. I need to replace my tensioner and I want to know if the 6mm hex bolt is right or left hand thread?

I'm sure it's going to be hard enough to get off and I don't want to snap the hex head if it turns out to be left hand thread.

I have the Dayco tensioner and idler pully. I'm just waiting on the belt.
In the mean time I'm changing the plugs, ignition coils, air and cabin filters, oil, front, rear and tc fluids.

I'm going to have the dealer change the tranny fluid, only because what I seen on YouTube I don't have the special meter for setting it after pulling the pan ect... Unless someone knows an easier way. Anyway thanks.

 

Most of us don't flush or even remove the pan when we do a drain and fill... Should be a tutorial in this same DIY section of the forum.

You'll hear folks mention dropping the pan and replacing the 'filter', but it's not really a filter as much as it's just a 'screen'.

 

What’s the vane pulley?
Mine knocked when I turn it back and forth

 

Thanks very much for the confirmation of idler parts, I had looked up a replacement idler for the supercharged arrangement and kept coming up with an idler selling for $200 dollars which is absolute b.s. . Good to know it IS in fact the same as the idler on the tensioner assembly.

 

The ~$200 supercharger idler pulley comes with the mounting bracket as well. That's the only difference and why the price is higher. I bought the SCOL idler pulley earlier this year and found that out after it was delivered. If you only need the pulley (no bracket) go with the dayco and save the cash.

 

Definitely! That would have been a hard lesson to have learned otherwise! Thank you!