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[DIY] Replacing driving/serpentine/timing belt (and idler pulleys)

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Spvrtan, Apr 9, 2017.

  1. Apr 9, 2017 at 12:35 AM
    #1
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

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    This will work on Tundras from 2007 and above but I did mine on my supercharged 5.7L 2014. I was experiencing a squeal coming from the engine bay and it ended up being that the supercharger's idler pulley bearing was dried out (I accidentally got a ton of degreaser in it when cleaning the engine bay). To get to the pulley, I had to remove the belt. I figured I might as well swap out the belt as preventative maintenance while I was at it (even though it only had just a little over 40k miles on it); regular maintenance schedule asks that the belt be replaced around 100k but always when you start to see cracks on the belt or the ribs starting to fail.

    Dayco is the manufacturer for these OEM Toyota parts. While the belt is off, you can optionally replace a few of the pulleys for whatever reason (eg. preventative maintenance, dry bearings).

    20170408_155100.jpg 20170408_180939.jpg20170408_180318.jpg20170408_180401.jpg

    Time: 30-45 minutes

    20170408_153219.jpg

    Parts (for belt)..

    Optional parts (for pulleys)..
    • #1 idler: 89502 (Dayco)
    • Tensioner idler: 89016 (Dayco)
      • Assembly: ??
    • Supercharger idler: 89016 (Dayco)

    Tools (for belt)..

    • 14mm socket
    • Breaker bar
    • 5mm hex key

    Optional tools (for pulleys)
    • 15mm deep offset box wrench
      • Tensioner
      • Supercharger
    • 14mm box wrench
      • #1

    Notes..
    • Supercharger and #1 bolts have standard threads.
    • Tensioner is left-hand threaded.
      • Assembly is standard.
    • Hand torquing when tightening will suffice.

    Steps..

    1) With breaker bar and socket, "loosen" tensioner; but don't actually remove the bolt (just enough to move the assembly) -- it'll make sense in person.

    20170408_154548.jpg

    2) Hold the tensioner loose and put the 5mm hex key into the service hole once it's accessible to keep the tension off so you can work with the belt.

    20170408_154602.jpg

    3) Remove the old belt starting at the tensioner pulley; it should slide off if tension is backed off enough, which is what the hex key provides.

    20170408_154734.jpg

    4) Place new belt on; start at the driver side when putting it on and work toward the passenger side; may have to work above and below truck to reach; a warm belt may be easier to stretch on. Below are some helpful diagrams.

    Tip: AC compressor, fan and idler, over water and vane, push belt below, under wrap around crankshaft and generator, lastly over tensioner.

    upload_2017-4-9_0-10-11.jpg

    upload_2017-4-9_0-10-21.jpg

    20170408_183644.jpg

    5) Ensure all the belt's ribs are seated in the grooves properly of any/all applicable rotating parts.

    6) Loosen the tensioner again and remove the hex key; for some torque strength, tighten the tensioner a bit if you actually loosened the bolt itself.

    Optional steps..

    a) While the belt is off, you can optionally replace the supercharger's idler pulley using a 15mm deep offset box wrench. I highly recommend the tool because the working space is tight and you don't want to risk rounding the bolt head with other tools.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2019
    The Dude, Main77, eebozz and 31 others like this.
  2. Apr 9, 2017 at 4:14 AM
    #2
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    You make it look so simple! Nice write up!!
     
    Tundra11 likes this.
  3. Apr 9, 2017 at 5:01 AM
    #3
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 TOYOTA,RAILROADER,RÖKNROLLN',BEER,BACON,FURBABIES

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    Great write up! :thumbsup:I did mine few months ago ..i used Haynes manual got me Gates serpentine belt..lol have those same floor mats good on knees n back!!!
     
  4. Apr 9, 2017 at 6:13 AM
    #4
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Sushi, and Teslas Staff Member

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    Added to the DIY sticky!
     
    Rex Kramer and csuviper like this.
  5. Apr 9, 2017 at 6:36 AM
    #5
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Your standard belt? I will throw my .02 in. I changed out both pulleys and went with the Goodyear Gator Back belt. Very good reviews. Just a suggestion.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  6. Apr 9, 2017 at 7:18 AM
    #6
    YotaMang

    YotaMang New Member

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    That's a great write up man! I just had my truck at Toyota for the same issue of a squeaky idler pulley (non-S/C'd) and they ended up replacing the idler pulley assembly and the belt under warranty. If it wasnt under warranty, I would have followed this write up myself haha :thumbsup:
     
  7. Apr 13, 2017 at 11:49 AM
    #7
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

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    It really is really simple. It took me a little over an hour because I had to send my girlfriend to the local shop to grab me an offset wrench but when I have to do this maintenance in the future it'll only take 30 minutes.
     
    F1reheart and 040Tundra like this.
  8. Dec 3, 2017 at 8:34 AM
    #8
    Silver8

    Silver8 New Member

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    Great post here. I bought my Tundra a couple months ago, lots of miles on her but a very solid rig. That said, the chirping was driving me crazy and I was determined to figure out if it was the SC coupler or just one of the pulley's. Bought the OEM belt via Amazon and then grabbed a couple Dayco pulley's. Ended up replacing the idler pulley just below the SC pulley as well as the pulley on the tensioner (they were the same part). The whole process likely took me longer than it should, but now, its quiet as a church mouse, so def worth the effort. I'd say the most daunting task was positioning the new belt, but after some tweaking, it popped into place, all good. Before I started the project I checked out Youtube and a bunch of Forums to get as many top tips as possible, and frankly, there really wasn't much on YouTube, which surprised me. Thankfully, the way you laid out your repair work, along with the great pics, made it much easier to dive in and get this done. Very satisfying, and always nice to save money by doing it yourself. Thanks again!
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
    Rockwarrior29 and Bob like this.
  9. Dec 3, 2017 at 8:40 AM
    #9
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 TOYOTA,RAILROADER,RÖKNROLLN',BEER,BACON,FURBABIES

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    Need to change my idler pulley or tensioner making a high pinch squealing noise
     
  10. Dec 19, 2017 at 6:50 PM
    #10
    Rockwarrior29

    Rockwarrior29 New Member

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    So silver8 you said the idler pulley and tensioner pulley are the same part?
     
  11. Dec 19, 2017 at 7:09 PM
    #11
    Dabutcher

    Dabutcher New Member

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    Thank you. My truck just rolled over 100K. Runs smooth and quiet. But by you making it look so easy. I will replace belt and idler pulley soon. I will definitely inspect very soon. You doing this for us is like some yummy Christmas Karma! Peace. D
     
  12. Dec 19, 2017 at 9:36 PM
    #12
    Silver8

    Silver8 New Member

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    Hey @Rockwarrior29, thanks for the question, and yep, they're the same. Originally I was only going to replace the idler pulley that sits just under my supercharger pulley, but when I got the belt off and started poking around, I noticed they looked the same, so I figured I may as well replace both since I really couldn't determine where the squealing was coming from. My tensioner was fine, so once I had two new pulley's they went on pretty easily. The bolt on the tensioner is opposite thread, clockwise loosens - counterclockwise tightens, and the idler pulley has a traditional thread pattern. Neither pulley came with a new bolt so I just used the ones that were installed. Looked like the pulleys may have been swapped out in the past, did not look to be OEM, so I figured the Duralast pulley would be a sufficient replacement. The old pulley's had a very small amount of noise coming from them when I spun them in my hands, but under load they were chirping pretty good, very annoying. The new belt went on without issues, so it's just a matter of taking your time to make sure the belt is threaded and seating properly before you start her back up again. I read several comments about how to do the thread, but ended up just pushing the belt all the way up around the super charger pulley and then worked my way back down, eventually pushing the last bit around the tensioner pulley. The overall affect of the fix was pretty dramatic, so it's well worth the time and effort. I mentioned this in my previous post, but I bought the belt off of Amazon for around $35, it's OEM, and the pulley's were around $20 each at Autozone, plus, they have a lifetime warranty. I've included a couple picks of the old pulleys and the new box/part as well. And yes, I was eating pizza during this repair...Old Pulleys.jpg Duralast Pulley.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
  13. Dec 20, 2017 at 6:10 PM
    #13
    Rockwarrior29

    Rockwarrior29 New Member

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    Thanks a million. I’ve had my rock warrior for two months now and when it got cold it started to chirp in the morning until it got warm. Went to autozone to get pulleys and belt and they were clueless about my truck it doesn’t pull up in there computers. So I called Toyota and wow the pulleys were 100 a piece and belt was 130. So after tons of research and talking to you I’ve found everything for just over a 100. Thanks again and I’ll have them on soon.
     
  14. Dec 22, 2017 at 4:27 PM
    #14
    GTABurnout

    GTABurnout New Member

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    My truck has gotten a lot louder in the last few months. I assume the pullies are going bad so I have an OEM belt I plan to use and I just need to track down the pullies. Thanks for the how to.
     
  15. Dec 23, 2017 at 2:59 AM
    #15
    SMK Shoe

    SMK Shoe Not New Member

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    Step Bars, Rear Swaybar, 2,000 Watt Amp, 2-10" Subs, new door speakers, De-Badged, Hondo vent mounts, Calipers, 6112/5100 shocks, SPC UCA's, Front bumper, Bed Bars, bed rack, Fuel Rims
    Where did you find a Haynes manual for the third generation. I keep looking and can't find one for my 17 DC. Great reference manuals ( have a Haynes or chilton for every vehicle in the stable, even the H.D.)
     
  16. Dec 23, 2017 at 8:12 AM
    #16
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 TOYOTA,RAILROADER,RÖKNROLLN',BEER,BACON,FURBABIES

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    AutoZone... but you can order book online through there website it only goes up to '14 but it's the same way for your '17
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  17. Dec 23, 2017 at 10:49 AM
    #17
    GTABurnout

    GTABurnout New Member

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    been trying to sort this out for the morning. I want to replace both the supercharger idler and standard idler pullys. Can any one verify what the part numbers are?
     
  18. Jan 19, 2018 at 4:27 PM
    #18
    Dilsky

    Dilsky Toyota Brand *****

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    I picked this up today supposed to be designed specifically for our truck as a kit. Was way cheaper than getting all the parts separately or from the dealer for that matter.
     
  19. Jan 20, 2018 at 11:14 AM
    #19
    Dilsky

    Dilsky Toyota Brand *****

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    Picked this kit up (non-supercharged :() going to take a swing at it today and will try to remember to take some pictures.20180119_154843.jpg
     
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  20. Jan 20, 2018 at 11:21 AM
    #20
    Silver8

    Silver8 New Member

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    @Dilsky have fun! And yes, pictures are always great and helpful for the next guy. Hoping for a very quiet engine after you're done, good luck!
     
  21. Jan 22, 2018 at 12:45 PM
    #21
    Dilsky

    Dilsky Toyota Brand *****

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    Well got it all done, brother in law who is a mechanic (and a chevy guy...) came over to help out. Couldn't find any grinding in the pulleys but the upper pulley did have a bit of play in it back and fourth so we swapped out that one. He thought the belt looked fine so we popped it back on and there was no more squeak! We will see how it does when the temperature drops again. He was quite impressed with how well the pulleys and belts were doing considering the mileage as he had already changed his on his truck. Although he did figure the alternator would probably need replacing in the next year or so and did not like the way it looked to get it out of there. It was a little tighter in there than I was expecting. Didn't take a lot of pictures as it all happened so fast!

    20180121_132005[1].jpg
     
  22. Jan 26, 2018 at 5:28 AM
    #22
    Silver8

    Silver8 New Member

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    Great work, @Dilsky, happy to hear it was a success! Not surprised that the Chevy guy was impressed with your truck, makes perfect sense. Thanks again for the update.
     
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  23. Feb 1, 2018 at 7:23 PM
    #23
    Crunch527

    Crunch527 Brute Force and Ignorance

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    Did a belt swap last weekend...supercharged...no more squeak...hardest part was fighting the friggin TRD pro skid plate...
     
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  24. Feb 9, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #24
    BoatsAndPlanes

    BoatsAndPlanes New Member

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    Do you access it from above or below? I can't figure out how the hell to get to it.
     
  25. Feb 9, 2019 at 2:21 PM
    #25
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

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    You have to do a bit of both.
     
  26. Feb 9, 2019 at 2:22 PM
    #26
    BoatsAndPlanes

    BoatsAndPlanes New Member

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    Skid plate doesn't wanna budge. Dealer must have used the air hammers .
     
  27. Feb 9, 2019 at 8:19 PM
    #27
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan [OP] Amateur fabricator

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    Just grab a giant cheater bar.
     
  28. Feb 9, 2019 at 8:21 PM
    #28
    BoatsAndPlanes

    BoatsAndPlanes New Member

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    Yeah, I have an impact wrench to hit it with too if the leverage doesn't get it.
     
  29. Jun 16, 2019 at 10:47 AM
    #29
    Jbtaco2002

    Jbtaco2002 Almost a Tundra

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    Thanks for this write-up, just changed my S/C belt today. Easy doing it solo, a second set of hands when routing the new belt would have saved me 10 minutes... :thumbsup:
     
  30. Jun 16, 2019 at 7:26 PM
    #30
    Crunch527

    Crunch527 Brute Force and Ignorance

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    FYI: my tensioner went bad and had to swap it out at 62K. Not sure why.
     

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