Crackhead resurrection

https://www.tundras.com/threads/trd-2uzfe-engine.83464/

 

I wish i needed it. But keep telling yourself that.
My daily morning mantra goes a little something like ‘goosfrabba, i dont need a race block, woosah’

 

Man, who knew so many parts on our trucks resembled codpieces?!

Sucks on the radiator. Hopefully it doesn't leak. It's the hidden damage that kills you

 

Dude you totally need it. Go balls out on this. Get loans to afford it all.

 

Minus the HVAC bezel, and the carrier bearing I ordered because I can't find those invoices right now...

Total cost in all parts listed above: $563.49
Total shipping: $171.58
Total minus two items listed above: $735.07

 

Given the status of the coolant, how does the air filter look? I wonder if the diff fluids are original.

 

I bought my daughter a 2015 Jeep Cherokee for her 16th birthday. It was 5 years old and had 114k miles on it. Got it for $9200. The engine air filter and cabin air filter were original. I was not pleased. Swapped all the filters and fluids out and replaced a broken cam follower that made it tick (discovered that when I got home, can't hear it in the vehicle) and it runs and drives like new. There's hope yet.

 

These parts are things you're having the dealer install - yes?
Then why not order the things to the dealer & have them toss them into the truck?
Have you asked them about their pricing to you to get the parts in? I'd think there's room to negotiate pricing for the qty purchase you want to make & likely no shipping costs.

 

Everything in my parts list is things I will install with the exception of the steering rack bushings, and the carrier bearing.

I will order more dealer installed parts soon. (Body mounts (+/-) hardware, engine mounts, transmission mounts.) Things that would be exceedingly difficult for me to do on my own.

 

guess you renamed the thread. Went to my watched thread & Poof - was gone.

 

he let his pinky do the talkin

 

This thread is appropriately named now.

 

Yes you do.

 

Mind pulling the 2 bolts for one side bracket and measuring core thickness of your new radiator? (You bought a Denso iirc.)

 

Went to the local Bestius buy which I didn't know still existed... @TundraGirl2 reintroduced me.

Fiddled with knobs, and looked at speakers. Settled on Kenwood unit. Nothing schmancy. Noted some kicker, and alpine speakers that seemed like decent quality.


Wasn't in stock, but was shipped to my address free of charge.

 

I believe that DD kit (the $17 kit) is for the newer 03-06 trucks when they started coming with extra wide radios. All you should need is the harness adapter which should already be in there from previous aftermarket radio. That radio should bolt right in with the new brackets you already ordered.

 

Oh, bummer. Best buy gal asked for year of truck, and said that this one would fit.

I just wanted a chance to button up the wiring harness proper with solder, and heat shrink. Keep the one that came with my truck as a back up just in case I wired something wrong.

 

It doesn't look like that kit even comes with a harness. Also need to make sure that it has the amp bypass harness in it if the RC even has one. Should be the cheaper one.

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-176...&qid=1631297642&sprefix=toyota+wiring+&sr=8-3

 

Sorry, I've been MIA doing my day job (it got all stressful) and I still need to order up starter and oil pump (I think) and window trim (I think) along with the sliders I put a deposit down on (man those are spendy) but did someone just say radio wiring harness?

I have literally a metric s-ton of that stuff and I can hook a fellow FGT lover up if desired. Granted $5 is not a rough price to pay but given that I have stuff in stock which is OEM grade and can crimp as desired, I'm happy to help.

The one thing I do not have is purple green, white and grey GXL in striped (for the negatives) so I typically use solid color with some black heat shrink to denote negatives.

Anyway, the stuff is dirt cheap and easy to get but most of the ones I've seen are males, harder to find females (isn't that usually the case) so you can T off.

@Tundra2 if you're dealing with a cutoff jeans of the OEM harness you'd want the females not the males, yeah? Males are for getting into the OEM side which is only needed to mate up an aftermarket to OEM if the OEM is all good and clean. But maybe that's what you're after?

If you want I could crimp on Toyota connectors directly to the aftermarket harness (super clean, minimalist) or I could send a pair of connectors and some male terminals to you and you buy your own unsealed crimper, it's super easy.

The days of soldering that stuff are long gone for me.

 

He may not need the amp bypass. Needs to check and see if the amp is even there in the 1st place, that crackie didn't take it out, and/or see how crackie dealt with the aftermarket stereo that's in there already. You know where the amp should be, right? Hopefully yours was the dash-mounted variety (RC and all) and the amp bypass kit would be super-overkill because it's not wiring to the rear of the cab.

That said, @Tundra2 careful with the solder talk, you may spark off another war about butt splice vs solder. Don't forget to tin and even more don't forget to pre-apply a sleeve of heatshrink to each wire before the iron gets hot, noting sucks worse than realizing you forgot your sleeve after the fact

 

More parts showed up today.

• Spicer carrier bearing
• Continental Upper/Lower Rad hoses
• Gates Serp belt with AC loop.

@shifty` I'm not trying to start a war over which is better again. I just have much more solder in my possession than crimps. I enjoy the challenge of a good tin job.

@daveeasa I may still take you up on your offer of crimped harnesses. See the pictures below of factory truck plug, and then the wired nutted mess ol cracky left me.





@The both of you... I have no idea where the amp is. I have no idea of its in the dash where I assume it would be. I haven't looked. Been busy, and on the road a lot lately.

 

Ah, your females look great. Don’t need any males either, just cut the ones you have and you are all set if solder is your plan. Maybe a small chance it’s the same plug. But unlikely I suspect.

That tapeball, though, it’s like a man bun, it’s gots to go.

 

Got very lucky that ole crackhead didn't just snip all that factory stuff off, and hold it together with spit'n'bubble gum...

I'm not sure which harness the one I need for the Kenwood will be after @NickB_01TRD's suggestion. Guess I'll order it all, and find out. Would definitely like a much cleaner install than that taped together mess of boogered bullshit

 

You already have the stuff he linked I believe.

 

Unplug all the crap he did that's taped and wire it to the Kenwood harness. Super easy. The green and purple are the rear speakers, the others should match up by color.

 

Agree with this. Amp has already been bypassed or was never there. Just rewire and go.

 

If it were me, I'd get back down to just factory wiring - the two molex plugs and the antenna plug alone. Factory stops at those two white plugs, anything beyond that with red/white/yellow/blue and the green/white/grey/purple with duplicates having a stripe is all aftermarket, those latter four are classic industry colors for speakers. I take it this is only a 4-speaker truck? If yes, I don't believe the Gen1 trucks came with a 4-speaker amplified truck, which would explain that point.

I'd pop out cracky's aftermarket stereo, then unplug from the two factory molex plugs. Make sure that's it. If there's anything else floating around after you get to that point, may need a pic of it to help you ID it.

80% of your install from that point can be done from outside the truck. If you already have a new Metra harness, I'm not even sure I'd bother keeping whatever adapter he bought because we have no idea what he's done to it, how much oxygen entered the wire casing from his stellar bundling. I'd toss it in the bin in case you need for something else later.

Get your Kenwood harness and new Metra harness. Graft together as you like. 80% of your install is done. Now all you gotta do is route your microphone to your headliner, get your new side mount rackets on the Kenwood, I feel like I had to find a ground point for my aftermarket HU in the dash, then plug both harness ends together, plug in the mic in, plug antenna in and you're golden....

 

The radios on these trucks ground through the mounting tabs for the radio so who knows what's going on to get this half ass installed radio to ground without being mounted. I can't figure out why someone would go through and cut the bezel up when all they had to do was mount the tabs from the factory radio and put it back in. That'd be easier then chopping up the bezel.
@Tundra2 Where are the rear speakers located on a RC? Does it have tweeters in the doors?

 

Exactly why you never trust a crackhead's work. Better just to purge everything they put in and pick up from the first clean, potentially OEM spot you can.

But yeah, I feel like there was a ground, not to the moutning brackets, but to a metal support inside the dash, on the left-hand side of the radio opening. I swear I crimped an open-end connector, wedged between the plastic dash and metal dash support, then tightened it down. The screw I tightened down onto it may've been used the hold the stereo mounting ears in place? I'm not willing to take my dash apart to check, even though I need to re-attach or replace the mic for my hands-free right now - it either came unplugged or died, dunno which.