Coilover v.s. Drop Bracket (cutting crossmember)

Thanks for your insight, Luis. You’ve affirmed my thoughts. I do wish I could see some “tech” behind the theory. As you stated with R&D, I’ve no doubt that some companies have made sure their drop brackets are up to par. I’m also betting many have not.

I’ve had the “lifted truck” more than once. Once in the 35” BFG AT variety on 1/2 ton axles, rear blocks, old stiff Rancho springs, and cheap shocks all around, just to get “the look”. Rode like a hay wagon and was miserable both on and off road. Similar kits are available for our Tundras.

I rebuilt that rig (pictured above) with 1 tons, 42” tires, real beadlock wheels, longer custom springs, shackle flip, locker, etc etc. Hands down worked better both on and offroad, which I learned to appreciate. Not a DD per say, but definitely street capable. It kept up with high $ Jeeps except for speed

I’m blabbering....

Anyway, your comments are appreciated. I’m definitely not unrealistically looking to make my Tundra an all out rock crawler. It’s my everyday-everything truck, after all. But if I’m going to lift it at all, so that I can hit a few trails with comfort AND performance, I sure don’t want to make an expensive mistake that I regret. I too have been considering Kings or Icons. Jury still out here too.... a-n-d (oh yeah) the money!

Cutting the crossmember does seem to be “the dividing line” that separates what makes these trucks what they are. They’re either uncut and have performance ext travel coilovers, or Long Travel, etc. or they are cut and running a big Drop Bracket lift (and equally as big wheels and tires) to pound the pavement as hard as possible. Both options have their merits.

Thanks again Luis, and others who had constructive comments

 

The data you seek exists, at least from the big name companies. I am not sure that anyone would be willing to share it though.

I can tell you that from a structural stand point, that cross member was made to be as small/light/strong as the CAE would allow and still pass the required durability testing. I will say this though, there is a reason the big boys like camburg and the other big name companies are running things like long travel and bypasses instead of crossmember chop lifts to get the performance they want.

 

I can't directly answer but I have a cut cross member with BDS. I've had all my wheels off the ground while landing on sand, had my bumper where it touches the body on the ground a few times, I take high speed runs on open trails and desert, been high centered a few times and flexed my frame enough to where my bed is rubbing the cab. I haven't had any issues that I've noticed with the front end of my truck.

 

From having a standard mid-travel setup on my FJ Cruiser to having a drop-bracket mid-travel setup on my Tundra, I can solidly say I have no regrets going with a drop-bracket lift. Bullet points below.

- I have had zero issues with frame strength when offroading.
- Bracket lifts provide you more clearance around the truck except at the axles.
- Bracket lifts allow you to run larger tires with increase clearance around the axles.
- Bracket lifts have a higher center-of-gravity but you learn to manage how your truck handles and where it's tipping points are and adjust your driving accordingly.
- You can have a ride just as good as a standard mid-travel setup on a bracket lift, even for go fast stuff, but you just have to learn how to corner better. Shocks determine how your ride handles going fast on dirt.
- You can potentially run a wider stance than a standard lift, which helps with cornering.

I'm running 40" tires on my bracket lift and do a little of everything and have had no problems.

Here's my build:
http://buildprint.io/b/pluto

 

I didn’t have to cut my crossmember when I lifted my truck but reading all these comments, long travel or whatever else like it is obviously going to give you a way better and safer ride when jumping and all that other mess but I do know that these kits that aren’t long travel are still made to be beat up out there.. that’s what these companies make the $$ On. They wouldn’t be selling them if they were going to crumble with off roading!!

 

BDS says the 4.5" and 7" kits use the same crossmember. However, it seems the 4.5" version keeps near-factory geometry (level LCAs), whereas the 7" version is basically like adding 3" lift spacers (or 3" lift coilovers) to any otherwise normal truck.

So, Question: If you put aftermarket UCAs on a 7" BDS lift with full coilovers, would you effectively have a "mid-travel" front end except with the LCA pivots offset 4.5" lower?

 

Lindenwood,

I believe you are correct. That is my understanding of the BDS 4.5” v.s. 7” difference.

And if I’m not mistaken, I believe that is how @Spvrtan has built his Tundra; a drop bracket with performance extended travel coilovers:

 

Yes it would. I'm running the 7" bds lift with aftermarket UCA's, coilovers and secondary shocks with limit straps. 13" of travel

 

Thanks!

Trayday, that is realy inpressive wheel travel! Would I also need limit straps if I added aftermarket UCAs, since they do allow increased droop? Also, which UCAs did you get?

 

I'm pretty sure a "basic" mid travel with no cross member cutting yields just under 13, IIRC 12.5. I lean on the side of not cutting the cross member, especially since 35s fit on a extended travel 3" lift and has same/if not better axle clearance. Hard and $ to come back from cross member removal.

 

Indeed, it does appear that you don't match standard MT front axle clearance with bracket lifts until going full ~7" on a bracket to push the static angle of the LCAs down.

However, it seems many videos I've seen of MT Tundras on technical, rocky terrain show a lot of high-centering. So, for these long-wheelbase trucks, I do think there is value to improving that breakover angle, even if it means a modest reduction in rollover resistance for folks who otherwise don't do a lot of high-speed offroad driving.

 

I ordered the TC bushing UCA's then added adjustable ends. It would've been cheaper to buy them with adjustable heim joints from the factory. I'm not sure if limit straps are needed or not but before the straps, I've blown 2 driver side inner cv joints, I'm pretty sure it was from jumping the truck in 4wd @ high speeds and not from momentum droop. For the lift, the only negative thing I've encountered is clearance while driving under fallen trees and loading heavy things in the bed.