Clunking noise front end while driving: SOLVED

correct.

Hercules is damn good for its price point. If you've never watched this guy. Give it a watch

https://youtu.be/6mYsktjbLjs?si=Z_UL0Uy1qJv5-nOH

 

Where in the hell did you get that part number?

Using EPC (this method from the sticky) shows the following for '01-'01 trucks: 48817-0C010

Despite the two looking visually dissimilar in the EPC photo, they come back to the same part number.

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Yes thats the one.

 

Thanks for the help. I’m having a hard time using the EPC. I have read the howto several times and I still struggle with the finding the right parts. I think the Toyota parts catalog system is super outdated and needs an overhaul.

I found that page by searching google images for a correct match and used the part number to find the lowest price on the autoparts.toyota website.

So I just need to buy the top and bottom sway bar bushings parts 48817-0C010 for both sides a total of 4?

 

If you just want to replace the rubber bushings, yep. I believe there are 4 total.

EPC navigation isn’t “easy”. But it helps if you just think, “which of the 4 logical categories would it be in?” And click the category. Then either use the pictures or the words to guess the right spot. Most things can be found within two levels of clicking. Bigger category, then smaller category. Some parts like fuel delivery components can be a bear. But most are pretty straightforward.

 

It also looks like one of my stabilizing bushing for my sway bar is not centered. Should I just loosen the two bolts and recenter?

 

I’ll keep trying and hopefully get it. I need to know how to work the system.

how can I tell if I just need to replace the bushings or the whole arm?

 

Come again?

You should never need to replace the entire swaybar, unless it's rotten.

For the links, same as anything else - got play? If you unbolt the top bolt from the swaybar (ideally with truck on the ground or jacked up just enough so there's no tension on that top nut), the swaybar link shouldn't just flop around, if you jiggle by hand, it shouldn't show signs of play or rattle, threads should look OK, link shouldn't appear bent, and it shouldn't feel crunchy or gravely when pivoting the link around.

 

Yes, the end link not the entire sway bar.

I want to get assembled coilovers either the 4600 or 5100.
Things I will need if I go with the 5100’s. Extended swaybar links.

Nothing extra for the 4600.
Is this correct? and if you have another suggestions.

 

I had a rough experience buying from SuspensionLifts aka BilsteinLifts and I can't recommend them.

I'd personally recommend buying thru a board vendor like @memario1214 who's over at Hotshot Offroad.

 

Thanks for the recommendation, I messaged @memario1214. He was very helpful and good prices.
When replacing the bushings for the end links do you need to have the wheel off the ground? Also should I apply a lubricant around the rubber?

 

The couple of times I had to uninstall/reinstall mine, I followed this procedure:

• Jack the truck until the bottom nut/shaft isn't under tension
• Removed the lower nut, moved the swabar link free of the LCA
• Hold the link and spin off the top nut, note the order of washers and bushings when you remove link
• Install new link with washers and bushings in correct order and tighten until you see 2-3 threads poking out of the top nut
• Insert lower shaft, install its nut until it holds
• Drop truck, torque lower nut to spec (for '05-06 it's 51ftlb), tighten top nut until bushings are semi-snug but NOT showing signs of starting to bulge (FSM says 14ftlb for '05-06)

FSM gives you torque specs and doesn't say what to do, so I go with what I know. I'll paste FSM content here.

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Couple things. What’s up with this and how much more is there? Is the rest of the frame in good condition?




And these struts are trash. Trash springs and low quality shock with poor dampening characteristics. The loaded billies are a good plan. You’ll get new springs and quality dampeners.

 

That’s a good eye, I didn’t see that at all. After the ground dries, I will spend some time underneath to examine and thoroughly examine the frame. This truck was a gift from my Dad. Since he has been working on cars for 50+ years I made a bad assumption about its health.

Little help, my Dad sent me an email making a suggestion on something I could look for when he was underneath, wrenching around.
"The only thing I can think of is one of the bolt holes that stabilizes the right half shaft might be stripped. I think there were two or three bolts doing that job. Check at the portion of the shaft where there is a housing to allow the axil to go in and out. It may have worked loose."
I’m not sure of the exact spot he is referring to in his message.

I’m leaning towards the assembled 4600’s with 2883’s. This needs to get done sooner than later because the clunking is getting louder.

here’s the video I made with the clunking. You can hear the clunking echoing in the parking garage I was driving through.

 

Thank you this helps. Should I only buy OEM bushings?

 

Toyota is doing something magical with their rubber, so I'd say "YES".

 

I checked the rack bushings yesterday and didn't find any play while the wheel turned lock to lock.

 

Updated:
I ordered the assembled Bilstein 4600's from @memario1214, ordered new OEM end link bushings and black sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension via Amazon.

I'm hoping one of parts will stop the annoying clunking noise.

 

Note that energy suspension typically sells poly bushings. Confirm if poly or rubber. If poly, you must use a poly-safe grease all over any part that will touch metal or you'll suffer the wrath of the SQUUUUEEEAAAAAKKKK!

Also note, poly bushings are a commonly counterfeited part sold on scAmazon. Never buy parts on scAmazon. or fleaBay. You have zero way to confirm if you're buying a really good knockoff, or the real thing.

 

Why didnt you just order everything from Colton? Lol

 

Who is Colton?

 

memario1214….

 

My struts and shocks from Hotshot come in tomorrow and I need some tools. I plan on buying a good amount from HF but need some advice on ratcheting wrenches. Do I really need the 6-point or will 12- point suffice?

Im going to be using a 1/2 breaker bar for most of the work since I don't own an impact wrench. I want to buy one but my budget is tight after buying the struts and shocks.

I plan to buy some ratcheting wrenches (especially the 14mm for the top shock on the rear, 6 point metric deep sockets, 1/2 breaker bar, etc.
I have already have or purchased the jack stands @shifty` recommended, jack, PB blaster, new OEM bushings for end links, and pry bar.

 

HF tools will be fine for what you're doing, and 12 point are fine. As long as the struts come pre-assembled, it's a fairly easy job. You don't need an impact. I would say that a decent torque wrench is more important, but you can get by without for this job. Be cautious about over tightening the sway bar end links. Most importantly, use common sense and be safe.

 

Yes the struts are pre assembled. I have a 3/8 craftsman torque wrench, but it only goes to 75 foot pounds. I’ve been watching numerous videos on Removing and installing the front and rear.

I picked up the end link bushings from Toyota. For some reason they don’t look like the same ones as stock.

 

Sorry if this is a little off topic, and maybe OP has already solved the problem, but could there be a wheel bearing issue that doesn't show play?

 

Those are the right ones, perhaps your "stock" ones had been replaced before? Orientation is as below

 

I agree, thanks for the picture. Are the washers missing on the photo?

 

Yes

 

Quick update:

I was able to install the rear shocks today. Which took me longer than I expected. Thanks to Colton @memario1214 for his help.

I bought a used GoPro and a magnet so I can get video of the front suspension.
Here is a short clip I shot just before sunset. It’s pretty dark but you can get a good view for a couple seconds lol. If you see something that’s not functioning correct or possibly causing the clunking noise please let me know.