Changing timing belt on 2005 V-8, what else would you replace?

hi all,
i just joined the forum because i am doing this. timing belt change.... thanks for all the good info.
im also changing my alternator now. i don't know whats in there, but i ordered a 130A replacement.

my truck has never had the timing belt done before. i'm at 210k miles. i think i replaced the serp belt once before around 100k.
so i got the asin kit, t stat and gasket, serp belt, alternator, MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner, new plugs.

im going to try and change the trans fluid too. i tow a lot, mileage is down, power is down. its time to service this baby.

 

I got an email asking me about my experience with this timing belt change so thought I would post my follow-up here. Hopefully this can help others that are thinking of doing the job on their own...

A couple of things from my notes that you may or may not know...

When you remove the serpentine belt tensioner pulley, it is a 14mm REVERSE thread.

Unclip electrical connections by squeezing clips, this sounds obvious, but really sometimes these can be a time consuming pain in the butt to get undone.

When you remove the thermostat housing and the oil cooler lines they WILL dump some fluid.

When removing the left timing cover watch out for the cam sensor, thread it through the grommet hole.

Line the camshafts up to the "T" mark on the shafts.

I used a piece of the old timing belt wrapped around the crankshaft fully to protect the pulley from scoring by the chain wrench I used to hold the pulley.

When you take off the crankshaft sensor star, note which direction on the star is toward the engine and which is toward the radiator, you do NOT want to install this backward.

When installing the new timing belt tensioner, (comes with the kit), leave the bolts loose until you get the new belt on completely. This makes it easier to get the belt on. Don't forget to tighten the bolts after the belt is on.

Do NOT use any sealant on the water pump gasket, use silicone lube on the O-ring.

After you get the new belt on and rotate the belt a few complete times, the lines on the belt will NOT line up, they only line up when you first install the belt. You can check for correct cam and crank alignment by making sure the "T"s on the cams and the dot on the crank are all in correct alignment, but again, the lines on the belt will not be lined up.

It's MUCH easier to rotate the engine through a couple of complete cycles with the plugs out. I changed my plugs at the same time I did the timing belt so I just pulled the old plugs and left the new ones out until I was satisfied the new timing belt was lined up correctly.

Like I said before for some reason I had a hard time lining up the AC compressor bolts on reassembly not sure why, but they are a bit tricky to access without the truck being on a lift.

I ended up with one extra bolt from the idler rollers which freaked me out until I realized they actually give you one new one with the kit.

In general I use anti-seize compound on almost all of my bolts and spark plugs.

I'm big on using torque wrenches and torquing everything to spec. You can find the specs on-line or if not let me know and I can scan the sheet I have and get it to you.

That's pretty much all I have from my notes.

There is a good Youtube video on the timing belt change where the tech does the whole job in like 30minutes and does not pull the radiator . I took a tad longer and I did pull the radiator.

Hope that helps,

WaterOp

 

Thread Revival! Rather than garbage-up this forum with another thread, maybe you guys can help me here. Please chime in.

For anybody who has done a timing belt on this specific engine 4.7L, how bad was it to replace on a 1-10 scale

I've done a replacement on a 5VZ, the 6 cylinder and I replaced all the idlers, tensioner etc and I didn't think it was a bad job overall. I've rebuilt engines before, a few CSB's and a wedge 345 from my Scout.

Having said that, I am no longer a young man, but I am not crippled or anything. Do I need a lot of shoulder strength or fine dexterity?

Would any of you, who have tackled this job, recommend that I give it a shot?

What do you guys think?

 

bump, above

 

I'd say that you're capable of doing it given your stated experience. The only thing that takes a little bit of shoulder strength is breaking the crank bolt - I couldn't get an impact in there.

I'm not a mechanic by trade, but overall the job was not difficult for me and it was pretty straight forward. The most important thing was taking my time and labeling everything I took off. I also triple checked the timing once the new belt was on.

 

Here's a thread I started. Have a look through it. It's not a terrible job. Take your time and you can do it in a day.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-master-thread-sticky.107240/

 

Just don't use the links to scAmazon to buy the parts. Order from RockAuto or anywhere that's reputable. The 1st part in that list a the time of me replying here is/was a counterfeit/knockoff. And you have no realistic control over what you get if the part is listed as "fulfilled by Amazon". There are ways to protect yourself to some degree, the problem and at least one solution is shown here, but it's best just to avoid scAmazon totally for auto parts, appliance parts, small engine parts, or anything else that can be easily faked. More than 60% of scAmazon sellers are based out of China at this point, and not enough measures have been taken to quell counterfeiting on scAmazon.

 

Links updated to parts from Rock Auto.

 

I did the timing belt, water pump, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, radiator, serpentine belt, and coolant all at the same time.

it’s all got to come out, why not?

 

Did you have to remove or disconnect the ac compressor for this job? I can pull a vacuum on it and recharge it. I just really don't want to, it is working so well right now. PAG oil (and 134) is probably infinity divided by 100E^-100000 dollars right now, so i'd rather avoid it.

 

You can unbolt the AC compressor and move it out of the way. There's no need to remove the refrigerant lines or recharge system.

 

Thanks! I have purchased all the parts that I will need now, I believe. Thank god I don't have to deplete my ac system too.

I sincerely appreciate everyone's help.