can caster adjustment prevent body mount rubbing?

@KevinK
@osidepunker
@Vizsla

 

Pinch weld, fender liner sheet metal as well at that 90 degree point may become an issue. I tagged a few other guys who may have better details.

 

You don't want Camburg or uni-ball (heim) type UCA's for what you're planning on doing. Camburg is too much caster & uni-balls become a PITA (noise, rebuild, rust/degrade, etc.) & they have less articulation than an SPC ball-joint (~60° vs ~80°). Get SPC. -2 to +3° extra caster, camber adjustable & quality. I have mine set @ +1° & my alignment is +4.4° caster on DS & +4.9° on PS. That's plenty for a ~3" lift.
I'm running 285/75 w/no CMC & haven't rubbed anything yet.

 

I'm planning on running 37s with zero offset wheels. That's why I'm looking to get more caster... will that setup you said still work for me?

 

I’m sorry, I thought you were the OP and I was more or less replying to his situation. I know very little about a 6+” lift. My apologies for quoting you. Hopefully the bigger lift guys can chime in and help you out.

 

Lol,im not running 6" lift, im on 3" lift

 

With 37" tires? I'm running 35's & it's tight!
Regardless, I wouldn't want my caster above 5° & Camburgs usually get you up into the 7+ range. That'll make your steering feel heavy & slow to respond. I wouldn't feel comfortable running caster that high. Between 3.5-5° is the sweet spot, w/the bigger tires the higher you'll want it to a certain point.

 

Which camburg's?

 

7+ degrees caster is what you want. I have 37s and 7 deg caster and the steering does not feel heavy. On the freeway doing 100mph the steering is rock solid and stable.

Hell my merc has something insane, like 12 or 14 deg caster

 

Yes. Add more caster to push the wheel forward and clear the body mount better

 

Here’s some photos on possible mods to help fit tires. That can be done a few different ways...

Good luck fixing any rubbing issues

 

Is there a brand you suggest? I was debating between, jba hd high caster, spc, or Camburg ball joint uca's. Thanks!

 

Any UCA with adjustable heims is going to be your best bet if you're trying to maximize caster. Push the LCA all the way forward and do your alignment with the uppers

 

Caster won’t solve the problem of needing glass fenders for zero offset 37s. That’s what we run, and the problem is the face of the fender, where the tire tucks into at full stuff. You’ll bash the tire on the edge of the fender with 0 offset. It just barely tucks inside on +25 offset.

here’s ours on +25

Exactly. All of the above and glass for 0 offset 37s. Plus trim of stock front bumper, stock skid plate, removal of sway bar.

you’re on long travel. The caster numbers should be a little different.


@Jman245
if you want zero offset 37s you’ll need adjustable uppers as mentioned before, but in addition I’d say you want on-truck adjustable Icons because they give a finer adjustment and can be done without pulling the UCA bolt ever time.

Thrust the lower control arm all the way forward with the eccentrics. That gets the tire away from the body mount. The have them do the alignment with the adjustable upper. Depending on your shock size and shape, you may have to find the delicate balance of clearance between the tie rod, axle and coilover.

 

Pro Tip: Don't get 37's on 0 offset unless you're LT with glass fenders. Or unless you have a +6" lift.

 

pussy




You’re right, but still.

6” lift? It’s like I don’t even know you.

 

Lol. Unless you’re KevinK. And I had to add the 6” bit otherwise 5 guys with 6” lifts would’ve told me they have 37’s on 0 offsets and that I was wrong.

 

All those guys with 6” think they’re better than me with my 3”.

 

I’ll admit, it’s how you use it.

 

Bro,true story! In Texas, they all love 6" or more in order to fell like the man. When I talk to peeps about doing 37s on 3" they laugh and say I can't do it. I'll show'em soon!

 

Hahaha,literally!