Brake help requested

empty_lord's solution is better, I think - in cutting lip off of 25% of the backing plate, I've seriously weakened it in an engineering sense. Instead of a rigid 3-dimensional "bowl", it's now a flat plate, at least in that quadrant. That said, I've not got access to a brake lathe, so I went with what I had. Noise and rubbing is completely gone, so it's a success in that regard, I guess.

Still, it IS irritating that this is a known engineering flaw, one that Toyota damn well knows about, but it's still gonna come out of our pockets.

 

Do we know which rotors don't interfere? I'm going to be doing brakes soon and would prefer to find ones that clear.
I was going to try the advance auto premium rotors due to them being local and easy for warranty.

 

I installed stop tech drilled and sloted , have no issues at all. If you ground those down with a grinder , I'd be very worried about a balancing issue , because now you've taken a perfectly round and balanced rotor , and changed it's geometry. Hope all works out , because now tires should be balanced on the truck. I 've never seen where a backing plate could not be bent out of way , or just cut out.

 

I have napa premium that rub. Somebody mentioned OEMs rub.

I'm not sure you would not notice the imbalance of the rotor that close to the center of the axle. however, in the Northeast rust belt its not a valid point anyway because the rust that forms the winter you install rotors pretty much guarantees you aren't balanced in any way.

In my opinion the backing plate is a permanent structure of the truck (granted no important or load bearing) but the rotor is a consumable. I'd rather cut the consumable.


Recall was 08-10 i think. So that's in your favor. Hopefully you don't have issues.

 

Has anyone just had their OE rotors turned instead of buying new? I'm debating on saving myself $300+ and just have my oem rotors turned.

 

The rotors have a spec on how thin they can be. If they require more material removed while grinding flat than that a garage will not do it. If it's close they may start and then tell you that they are too far gone. That being said if this is the first brake pad change and the rotors aren't too badly grooved I just change the pads. You'll loose a little pad life as they conform to the grooves in the rotor but the savings from not replacing the rotor more than make up for it. The front rotors are more critical so I'm not as likely to try to get more life out of them.

 

That’s the drivers side, passenger side looks the same. Wish I would have checked the forum first.

 

Just check rims on drums for large rust build up and grind them smooth. And then all you should have to do is bend the backing plate outward, for clearance. Usually the drums get large rust deposits around the rim that will cause this. Or if you drive on gravel , rocks can get caught there. Also make sure the axle is clean all around studs, before sliding drum back on .

 

Bringing this thread back up. I have this exact issue on my 2018. Going to take it to a brake shop and have them take about 1/8 off the inside lip if the rotor where it is rubbing the inner dust shield.
Also had this happen on my 2007.

 

Did some checking around this afternoon. Apparently shops don’t turn rotors anymore and they have gotten rid of their lathes.
I think I will just take my small side arm grinder and remove about a 1/8” from the inside lip of the rotor.