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Ball joint!! Happy Friggen New Year to me!! Ugh

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Adventundra, Jan 11, 2023.

  1. Jan 20, 2023 at 4:05 PM
    #121
    w666

    w666 D. None of the above

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    Kinda like the Lunch Table.
     
  2. Jan 20, 2023 at 7:15 PM
    #122
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    It could cause issues with toe. The hole for the tie rod might not be in the exact same place. I needed an allignment after my ball joints anyway so I couldn't tell you how much of a difference it made. Probably minor though.
     
    HBTundra likes this.
  3. Jan 20, 2023 at 7:17 PM
    #123
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

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    That’s incredibly small and really wouldn’t justify a $100 alignment.

    I could drive to 5 different shops around here and each one would find a need to do a toe alignment even if it was in spec. after getting it done previously at another shop.
     
  4. Jan 21, 2023 at 1:13 AM
    #124
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    That's why I do my own alignment:anonymous:
     
    Jack McCarthy[QUOTED] and txagg like this.
  5. Jan 21, 2023 at 6:16 AM
    #125
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    I do down and dirty “shop alignments” after front end work. Think I’m within 25% of spec :rofl:. I use the string method from the back tires forward and Jack stands to hold it level. I take the weight off the front tires to adjust then, lower and check again. I keep the steering wheel locked at center. Works OK I guess. What’s your method?

    edit: this is usually a placeholder until I can get a pro alignment done. Or maybe my 2000 that doesn’t get driven much has this as its primary alignment :anonymous:
     
    HBTundra, RUSTYNUTS[QUOTED] and txagg like this.
  6. Jan 21, 2023 at 7:06 AM
    #126
    txagg

    txagg New Member

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    The 2000 has been driving on a grown mans alignment for about 5k miles. No vibrations at 80+, or unusual tire wear. Want to get the rear suspension fixed and am hunting a couple of sounds on the front end before I pay a "pro".
     
  7. Jan 21, 2023 at 11:33 AM
    #127
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    I get a reference line from each wheel (not tire) and mark the ground 6 feet fore and aft of each. Then measure the distance between the two front marks, and then between the two rear marks. If you were to have the exact same measurement, that would be toe zero. This is done of course with the steering dead center
    The method I use to get said reference lines, is to source a block of some type that fits inside the outer lip of the wheel-face, and thick enough that the outer side is out past the rubber, so I can then put a straightedge pressed against it (80" Stabila) and get a true plane of the wheel itself, and transfer as a mark on the ground
    Alternatively, you can use a laser but that's next level stuff. Same concept tho. Kinda but not really.
    I've only adjusted toe, but I always check the camber because it's too simple not to.
    FWIW, the only component in the front suspension that I have not replaced is the LCA's, so I have not had to remove the cambolts. Even with aftermarket coilovers, UCA's with uniballs, LBJ's, sway links, etc. I've only had to adjust toe, and truck drives great with even tire wear.

    :threadjacked:. :boink:
     

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