Axle nut torque and wtf is up with these wheel bearings?

The rear is pretty easy to do if you have a hydraulic press. Back when Toyota only made a pickup (the 1980s) and I was much younger and into 4 wheeling I bought a bunch of Toyota special service tools for doing things like axle bearings. One of them was round tube with a flange on each end. Once removed the axle would bolt to the flange on the tube. On the other end you just put a puller on the center of the axle and the jaws on the other flange. It works great if you don't have a hydraulic press. I'm kind of surprised that Autozone doesn't have them for rent.

I haven't done a 2nd gen Tundra but on my 1st gen a bearing separator and hydraulic press made quick work of it. If the 2nd gen is like the 1st then you'll most likely want to buy the tone ring for the ABS. The bearing on mine was fine, it was the seal that failed. There's a ring that gets pressed on to the axle that is tight to the tone ring that had some rust on it. To push the ring and tone ring back on I just bought a section of pipe that the inside was slightly larger than the diameter of the axle. I used my press but careful taps with a hammer would also work. I've seen pictures of the ABS sensor removed and people putting the axle into the housing to make sure it lined up but my sensor was rusted into place and I didn't want to replace it if I damaged it trying to remove it. I just measured the gap between the two so I knew where to stop when pushing it on.

You can buy a home made version of the tube I talked about off of ebay for about $150 or if you're handy you could make one for a lot cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=toyota+axle+bearing+puller&_sacat=0&_sop=15 If you can weld a piece of pipe and two heavy duty pipe flanges is about all you need.

 

To be completly honest if buying the whole assembly saves the trouble I'm in. The ring and seal would come with the full assembly so I think it's worth it. I have a shop i could use and the tools but even that sounds like a no brainer to me. I may hear a tire noise but once I get new tires I will deffintly tell what the sound really is

 

My post was on how to do the rear bearings and seals. For the front the price difference would have to be a lot not to just buy it as an assembly.

 

Did rotating tires move the sound?

 

It's about 280 more. Which I rather do than do that annoying crap. Ive done so many wheel bearing on my cars and my Polaris and other things that no matter what they just suck. And sadly no DCsleepers. I noticed that it got a little quieter so it might still be tires/alignment. Whenever I decide to get wheels and tires I'll know for sure. It's either 20x12 -44s on 33s and 12.5s. Or 18x9 or 10 with a +20 on a 35. I did also notice today that I felt a knocking sound in my steering wheel itself. I felt it with my hands and heard knocking on full lock. Again my steering wheel u felt it like it was behind the air bag??? Also noticed that after the toyotec lift it doesnt like to fully lock turn. Its almost like fully locked feels like 4wd on pavement. but idk. I just worried about stupid stuff right now the littlest things bother me. I do body work for a living so i guess thats where that comes from. But I dont wanna work on my own things after working on others all day !!!

 

Does the noise go away in 4wd? The first run of front axles had an interference problem when disengaged. The service bulletin basically says disassemble, inspect, if nothing is found then replace entire assembly. I haven't run across anyone that has had one apart. Maybe someone on this forum has done it. Should start that thread. Mine has done it since I purchased it. Seems to go away after long trips but comes back anytime I engage and disengage 4wd. I'll start a thread on that.

 

I have tried that and honestly it's the same sound. It might have made less sound but I dont think so. The wheel has no play in it either

 

I was looking at mine today. Both ends of the output on front axle have play up and down, forward and backward, the drivers side is notably more. No fluid leaks though and fluid looks good. You could have a cv shaft failing. Those can make a clicking sound when turned hard over. Cracks in the tires can make a lot of noise. Are any of the treads raised up on tires? That's another possibility.

 

My tread is shot I need tires. My sound is a wuv wuv wuv sound not clicking

 

Could be tires. Maybe front diff like I am experiencing. If tires are bad you might get some feedback in the steering wheel at higher speeds. I think I'm going to have to go into front diff, maybe try the bushing from East Coast. It seems to be getting worse but it's been 80 thousand miles since I first noticed. I'll probably have to replace half shaft when I do it. Rolling the dice I guess.

 

I think after I get new tires and if I still hear it I might need to do the same as you. Keep me updated!