Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Time to take the wheels off and inspect. If you live in the rust belt rotor rust can form on the outside edge. Remove the rotor and using a chipping hammer chip off the rust. Make sure your wires are in place. When the brake pins are out clean them up and use a silicone grease to lightly cover them. When the pads are out clean them up and use a light coating on the back of the pads before you reinstall the shims. Make sure the back of the rotor is clean where it mates with the flange wheel bearing. Make sure the flange is clean as well.

 

I live in Florida no crazy rust here but my rotors are definitely a little rusty. What silicone grease should I use? I’ve never worked on the brakes before I don’t really know what tools are needed or anything like that

 

Watch some videos and have a buddy that is experienced if possible. Brakes are important, so assembling and torquing everything down correctly will save lives.

You'll need:
Jack (and preferably stands too)
Socket set
Flathead screw driver
Allen set (dont actually remember, but most guide pins are Hex or Torx)

SOMETHING TO PRESS PISTONS BACK IN
I have and use 4 small clamps, but there are specific tools for pressing the 4 pistons in front. Remember to crack the fluid reservoir to make this process easier.

May also want a small, adjustable wrench to bleed the brakes. But you will also need a person to press the brake pedal unless you get a power bleeder.

Some wire or bungee to suspend the caliper while you work

 

Any chance there’s a write up on here? One of these day im gonna go and buy everything I need, what tool can I get for the pistons? I have the old style metal table clamps but only one of two

 

....Just remembered the Tundras only have clips to hold the slide pins, so you shouldn't need the allen/torx

Maybe for the rear tho.? Shit. I dont remember. Sorry

 

These kind of things are VERY easy to google, but I'm feeling generous.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-replacing-front-brake-pads-and-rotors.17394/

 

Thanks man, it’s just been on of those day. My head is screwed on backwards definitely didn’t get enough sleep

 

Your brakes should come apart easily because of the no rust. I like to use a Wurth silicone grease but any thick grease from a automotive store would work. If you haven't done Tundra brakes before do a couple of youtube videos to see what's involved. Make sure you unbolt the flex hose bracket off the knuckle before you remove the caliper so you don't damage the metal brake line. The caliper bolts are tight so you will need a half inch long handle ratchet or power bar. A small punch to hammer the pins out.

 

I have most of what you mentioned, I’ll have to make sure I have any necessary sockets. I might have a punch for this in my pew pew tool kit

 

I just had a level done and added Coachbuilder +1" shackles on the rear. I'm not too worried, but I have a squinting little doubt you might help me put to rest. I didn't add brackets to raise the brake line and speed sensor wire. The lift on the rear with those shackles is more like 5/8", not a full inch. I won't be Dukes of Hazzard with it; but it'll wind up on a lift at some point, probably to full droop. Are those lines anything to worry about?

 

I have a 3” shackle on mine and no extensions. Hoping I don’t get shocked by the response lol

 

You can bend the existing bracket upward. Every once in a while we get someone who had done a spacer lift on the rear axle and when we lift it on the two post the suspension drops and the ABS and brake hose get right like a bango string.

 

Because your in Florida the pins should just push out. Your least favorite Philips screwdriver and a little tap should work.

 

Once again Florida has helped make my life easier

 

I can't complain either. Ive been down in Florida for the last month and will be spending at least until the end of March before I return north.

 

Where in FL?

 

Arcadia, but I don't do house calls.

 

I thought Arcadia was only a place in Call of Duty

 

About a half hour drive inland from Punta Gorda.

 

Not too far we’re in Miami-Dade

 

While I was down there looking for any obvious issues I saw something weird. Bushing for my coilover, it’s not stock but this doesn’t look normal, anyone want to reassure me? Rough country 3.5” coilovers on the 2012. Plan on changing them eventually for maybe a 3” gated coilover

 

Hard to tell from the angle but the bushing may be toast. You can let the suspension hanger with the tire still on and place a bar under the tire and pry up on the tire. If you see movement at the bushing time for new struts. It also can make a noise when braking. There can be some metal to metal contact that would give a "click" noise.

 

Hmmm might be my mystery noise.

 

That's what I'm thinking.

 

It’s odd though. Other side looks exactly the same and has no issue. It could have looked like this since I installed them I have no ideas. Only been a year or so

 

Do the check and that will tell you. You might have some warranty if they're shot.

 

Warranty would be dead by now, I don’t expect much from Rough Country haha

 

Look for the movement. If you have movement, replace. I would do a replacement with the Bilstein 5100.

 

I got the brake pads changed and rotors resurfaced, the loud noise is gone but I still have the light noise that has no symptoms.

 

At this point it can definitely be a wheel bearing. It’s a cyclic clicking but I figure if it is a wheel bearing eventually it will develop into a more recognizable noise. It can also be driveshaft related but if I’m honest I really haven’t been able to mimic the noise unless it is being driven. Even then I cannot truly isolate it to a specific section of the vehicle at least not to a point where I’m confident about the general area where it could be coming from