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DIY: Replacing Front Brake Pads and Rotors

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by csuviper, Oct 12, 2017.

  1. Oct 12, 2017 at 8:59 AM
    #1
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Brian
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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Below is the install as completed on my 2012 5.7L Rock Warrior Crew Max. Should be the exact same process for all 2007+ Tundras.

    The new brake kit i ordered was the StopTech Axlepack Sport Slotted Rotors and Pads.

    Parts List:
    (4) Brake pads
    (2) Brake rotors
    (4) Hole Pins
    (2) Pin Hold Clips
    (2) Anti-Rattle Springs

    Tools Required:
    10mm socket / wrench
    12mm socket / wrench
    17mm socket / wrench
    13/16" socket / wrench
    (2) c clamps
    torque wrench
    cheater bar
    jack
    jack stands
    needle-nose pliers
    bungee cord or strap
    disc brake caliper lube

    [​IMG]

    1. Use a jack on the lower control arm to lift up the wheel. Use a jack stand on the frame for additional security.
    2. Remove the lug nuts and wheel/tire from the truck.
    3. Use the needle-nose pliers to remove the speed sensor clip. Use the 10mm socket / wrench to remove the speed sensor bracket from the spindle. Use the 12mm socket / wrench to remove the brake line bracket.
    4. Use the 17mm socket / wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper in place.
    5. Shift the caliper to the front of the rotor so you can work on it. Be sure to not bend the hard tubing on the back side of the caliper.
    6. Pull out the sides of the anti-rattle spring, remove the pin hold clip, slide out the hole pins and remove the anti-rattle spring.
    7. Pull the old brake pads out.
    8. Use the c-clamps to compress each of the front disc brake pistons in so that they are flush with the caliper.
    9. Install new brake pads in the caliper.
    10. Lube up the hole pins with the disc brake caliper lube.
    11. Install the new anti-rattle spring, hole pins and pin hold clip.
    12. Use the bunjee cord to support the caliper on the side of the front rotor
    13. Pull off the old rotor and replace with new rotor. If it is seized to the hub then you will have to use a bolt in the threaded holes on the rotor to press the rotor from the hub. Metric bolt but i do not know the size.
    14. Reinstall the caliper on the rotor. Use the 17mm socket / wrench to tighten the mounting bolts.
    15. Reinstall the speed sensor clip, speed sensor bracket, and brake line bracket.
    16. Reinstall the wheel/tire. Make sure to torque the lugs to specified torque per wheel mfgr.
     
  2. Oct 12, 2017 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    ARamirez73

    ARamirez73 RÖCKIN' N RÖLLIN' WITH MY TÜNDRA CRÜE

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    Awesome Sauce write up Brian!!!
     
  3. Oct 12, 2017 at 9:04 AM
    #3
    Tundra Fan

    Tundra Fan Cotton Member

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    Very nice write up. Always awesome to have pics. :thumbsup:
     
  4. Oct 12, 2017 at 11:32 AM
    #4
    040Tundra

    040Tundra El Chapo

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Brian, I just did the pads part to my 16 2 week’s ago. Very nice write up, dead on for instructions. Now we all can do our own brakes. No need to pay someone else. Thank you!!:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
     
  5. Oct 12, 2017 at 11:52 AM
    #5
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    yep ! great braking power with those rotors and ceramic pads. Love mine. So much better that stock.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2017 at 5:00 PM
    #6
    JackWagon

    JackWagon Dr. Wookiee

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    I’m gonna save this. I’ll be doing rotors and pads soon.
     
  7. Dec 26, 2017 at 2:52 PM
    #7
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck #20

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    Looks like I'll be needing this thread in the next month. My trucks about to hit 90k miles on the original brakes. Thanks!
     
  8. Nov 1, 2018 at 12:17 PM
    #8
    bobbybdennis

    bobbybdennis New Member

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    I'm not too mechanically inclined, but would like to start doing things like oil changes and brakes on my 2012 tundra rock warrior, would you say this is a pretty good starting point?
     
  9. Nov 1, 2018 at 1:24 PM
    #9
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Yes sir. Good staring point. Not too hard and saves money.
     
  10. Dec 17, 2018 at 8:55 PM
    #10
    tundracrazy

    tundracrazy New Member

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    If the rotors are fine, you can swap the pads without removing the calipers.
     
    15whtrd and csuviper [OP] like this.
  11. Dec 18, 2018 at 4:23 PM
    #11
    Tundra Fan

    Tundra Fan Cotton Member

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    Damn, I need to do this. I've got the wheel vibration when braking. :(
     
  12. Dec 23, 2018 at 4:08 PM
    #12
    428street

    428street New Member

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    This is awesome, thanks. I've got a 2016 TRD Pro, this will be the same procedure for my truck?
     
  13. Dec 23, 2018 at 4:51 PM
    #13
    tenntundra

    tenntundra 2013 SR5 crewmax Barcelona red

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    Did you seat the rotors? Alot of people don't know about that.when you install new rotors and brake pads you drive it up to 50 mph and the hit the brakes hard down to 20 mph then speed back up to 40 mph then brake hard again down to 10 mph then go back to your home and let them cool down. It makes the brakes and rotors seat and takes all the oil and contaminates off the rotors and also tempers the rotors.It will make them stop better and reduce the chance of warping.
     
  14. Dec 23, 2018 at 10:32 PM
    #14
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    No exactly those speeds but I did something like that right after installing and let cool down after
     
  15. Dec 23, 2018 at 10:32 PM
    #15
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Same
     
  16. Dec 24, 2018 at 5:04 PM
    #16
    tenntundra

    tenntundra 2013 SR5 crewmax Barcelona red

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    That should be fine
     
  17. Jan 11, 2019 at 9:37 AM
    #17
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan Mod In Training | MIT

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    Has anyone done the rear yet? Isn't there an extra step related to the parking brake and not wanting to fuck it up?
     
  18. Jan 11, 2019 at 9:45 AM
    #18
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    I did the rears at the same time. Don't remember doing anything different. The rotors are just harder to get off and put back on because of the internal parking break pads.
     
  19. Apr 20, 2019 at 8:51 PM
    #19
    wdwinder

    wdwinder New Member

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    New member here. 45k on a 2015. Finally time for brakes and stealership wants $345 for 30 bucks of parts and labor.
    Is it OK to force brake fluid back through an ABS system. Write up is great, but I have always been told on ABS its better to open the bleed valve when pushing the pistons back, then add fluid after. Just to avoid pushing any contaminants or debris into valves in ABS. Plus I figure it doesnt hurt get some fresh fluid in the system. But I have done exactly as you show with older non ABS cars
     
  20. Apr 20, 2019 at 8:58 PM
    #20
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    I’ve bled brakes before but never when replacing pads. As for pushing brake fluid back, I hadn’t heard you were supposed to open the bleed valve on ABS systems. So maybe I’ve been doing it wrong, but I’ve always compressed the pistons slowly and carefully and have never had a problem with either ABS or non-ABS systems.
     
  21. Apr 20, 2019 at 9:01 PM
    #21
    wdwinder

    wdwinder New Member

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    Well, I dont know if you are supposed to. Ive just been told its best to. But that guy, while a pretty smart car guy, is not a professional mechanic. So hoping to get enlightened here. :). Good to know you have not run into trouble.
     
    equin likes this.
  22. Apr 21, 2019 at 8:00 PM
    #22
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    I do not know for sure actually. I have always compressed them back on all my vehicles. Never had an issue.
    1987 Toyota pickup
    1993 Ford Explorer
    2007 Toyota Tacoma
    1984 Toyota Pickup
    2012 Toyota Tundra
    Wifes 2000 something Satern Ion
    Wife’s 2011 Jeep Wrangler JK
     
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  23. Apr 29, 2019 at 9:41 AM
    #23
    womprat57

    womprat57 BABE the Big Blue Ox

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    Nice writeup! Dealer just failed me on brakes said 2mm on the rears and 3mm on the fronts, then quoted me $1k to do all 4 pads and rotors... I actually laughed at the poor service advisor and said I would do them myself for a 3rd that. Does the Stoptech kit include the pins and other hardware?
    Bugs me as I bought it 2 years ago CPO with 24k on it and at 53k now.
     
  24. May 7, 2019 at 5:48 PM
    #24
    womprat57

    womprat57 BABE the Big Blue Ox

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  25. May 16, 2019 at 3:51 PM
    #25
    Tundra Fan

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    @csuviper
    Question on this step Brian,
    Do you have to use 2 clamps at the same time and do both pistons together? I've only ever done brakes where 1 C-clamp was needed.
     
  26. May 16, 2019 at 4:14 PM
    #26
    triharder

    triharder New Member

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    Appreciate the write up. A few things I do a little different I think might be worth considering. (Note I'm not a mechanic but tend to always find ways to make jobs 2x harder than they should be)

    For what its worth. It makes the most sense in my head to open up them bleed nipples and bleed the old fluid into a container then back into the system. When pushing out the pistons.

    I also test fit the pads on the clips (sliders) and trim off the paint that keeps the pads from floating as it slides. My stoptech pads did not free float on the sliders out of the box when pressed on the caliper.

    I've installed speed bleeders on all four corners of my truck. Makes the bleeding job a ton easier and only requires one person. (Stainless Steel bleeders as i'm a northeaster). https://www.amazon.com/Russell-639570-Speed-Bleeder/dp/B000CPCOB6

    On the Northeast Note: I also anti-sieze/copper grease my contact points on my rims to the rotors as otherwise it'll get stuck (more of problem on aluminum to steel then OEM I'm imagine). I do this for the new rotors to the hub and wheel to the hub as well. Its your brake system so go light on product but ensure good transfer on contact points.

    Note: Speed bleeders work great on systems that already have fluid in them. Not so great on an air trapped system (as in no fluid). its a check valve so keep that in mind if you decide to install.

    Or why pushing old fluid back into the system would make any sense if it can be avoided with a simple bleed set up with bottle with fluid and a tygon tube?

    Last Side Note: At 100k my brake pedal was working but definitely not feel between the brakes and my foot. Upon disassembly the brake pads sliding points up front where pretty gummed up as the pad clearly wasn't floating on the slider. Something to keep an eye out for during tire rotations.

    Also on NEW England (rust belt) trucks you want to anti-sieze those slide pins every tire rotation or they will require drilling at pad replacment time.

    If anybody can explain to me why replacing the fluid won't be a good idea when you're already this far into your brake job I'd be interested in hearing about it?
     
  27. May 16, 2019 at 9:21 PM
    #27
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes both. If you press one the other pushes out. Both at same time they go in.
     
    Tundra Fan and equin like this.
  28. May 17, 2019 at 3:53 PM
    #28
    Tundra Fan

    Tundra Fan Cotton Member

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    Thank you
    Never done brakes like that before, that would have had me going WTF. :rofl:
     
  29. May 18, 2019 at 12:25 PM
    #29
    womprat57

    womprat57 BABE the Big Blue Ox

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    Did the fronts and have an ABS and Traction light constant on. Moving on to the rears now then take a ride to bed them in. I got a hardware hit in case and good thing as the slide pins were rusty.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
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  30. May 18, 2019 at 3:28 PM
    #30
    womprat57

    womprat57 BABE the Big Blue Ox

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    Couldnt get the rears rotors off and called it a day, Re-assembled the rear caliper after cleaning and lubing everything. I popped down to the parts store and got some M8x125 bolts and checked them in the holes on the new rotors when I got back. They fit so hopefully tomorrow I'll get it all finished up and bedded in. Still a bit worried about the warning lights. I used C-clamps to push the pistons in slowly and kept an eye on the fluid. The master cylinder is alot higher than the full line but not quite at the neck of the fill cap.
    I took my time and did the fronts in 4 hours making sure all surfaces were cleaned and used copper anti-seize on the hub face after wire scrubbing them and using brake cleaner.
    Enjoying a Sam Adams Boston Lager in a frosted mug as my reward, not easy at my age in a dirt driveway with hand tools!
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
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