Ask the Detailer

Those are indeed the steps I plan to do. I will try the palm polisher to see how it does, if it's not good I'll grab a DA down at harbor freight.
And yes indeed I still have your number. I'm sure I'll be calling when the day finally comes that I do this detail. Thanks Steve

 

Thanks!
I've never used Ironx before, your saying to give it a good wash spray on and let it sit for a few min, then rinse off?

 

I picked up a bottle of megs ultimate polish today. I was going to get some new bonnets for my orbital but decided that money may be better spent putting it towards a DA polisher, I saw good reviews of one at harbor freight and I have a coupon. I'll pick one up tomorrow and some foam pads. What color should I get? Orange? Blue? Both? Like i said before. I have light slider webbing. I also have some scratchX i can use for any deeper scratches, then go over that with the polish?
When I actually do this I'll text you, just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start and dont wanna bug you too much.
Wash
Dry
IronX....or can I just do ironX right off the get go if car is clean and cool?
Rinse
Clay
Wash
Polish
Eraser
Hydro2/reload

If this goes well and I get the polishing down, I'll be doing ceramic next time. This is my first dark colored car and while it looks so good clean, it's a lot of upkeep. Ceramic should really help me out. That is if I can get it polished to the point I'm happy with.

 

Tomorrow afternoon ok @SouthBoundSteve
Getting the kid to bed now after a nice firefly catching session.

 

What’s the best way to remove a white mark from another door opening into my passenger door? No ding, thankfully but I guess the clear coat is compromised?

 

Thanks!

 

I've gone through and done steps 1-5, now i need to clean the surface before applying the cquartz.

Does IPA= Isopropyl alcohol? I dont think i can get eraser in time, so i guess i'll have to give ipa a try. Do you dilute it with distilled water?

Also, any tips for applying the cquartz? The instructions are really vague.

 

IPA is isopropyl alcohol. I have read the mix is 85:15 distilled water to IPA. Other guys here will know better than me though.

 

Man, I’ve seen some guys make up their own IPA solution from normal stuff you can get at Walmart. I don’t remember exactly. Google may help.
I haven’t applied my CQuartz fully yet, but @SouthBoundSteve told me repeatedly to “watch lots of videos”. I did experiment a bit on another vehicle. It seems like it won’t be as hard as it looks.

 

Thanks!

I'll stop off on my way home and get some IPA and figure out what ratio i need.

 

I ended up with a 1:1 dilution, and it worked well.
I applied the cquartz, and man it really brings out the color.

I plan on hitting it with some reload after 24hrs, sound like a good idea?

 

Clay bar recommendations?

Clay lube?

Thanks

 

Sanity check. I've never detailed my truck before but I'm about to pull the trigger on the following products/methods. Please correct me as needed.

1. Wash with CarPro Reset. Dry. Bug remover?
2. Use IronX. TarX spot treatment as needed
3. Rinse
4. Clay with Meguier's kit
5. CarPro Eraser whole truck?
6. Ceramic coating. Suggestions?
7. Waxaddict tires and trim
8. CarPro DLux for rims

Is that it?

Thanks

 

I do have some paint to correct what's the best way to do that?

Also if ceramic coating is too advanced, should I wax with something instead?

Thanks

 

Just wondering, does anyone know much about this Top Coat F-11 stuff? Seeing adds for it on FB. Leaning towards the Feeder Tyre Conditioner for trim and tires.

 

Tips for drying the books and crannies? My trouble spots are usually under plastics: batdges, handles, mirrors, bed rail caps.

Planing on waxing next weekend:


Wash with McKees Coating Prep Auto Wash (2 bucket) and dry
Adams IronX with garden hose rinse (sheeting water)
Nanoskin mitt “clay” with CG quick detailer spray as lube (or mr pink foam cannon, wipe soap off with nanoskin?)
Another 2 bucket wash with McKees prep wash & dry
McKee high def sealant
CG Butter wet wax (will use Pete’s 53 at this stage in the future... but I spent enough already this month...)

Figured I’d see what master yoda (@SouthBoundSteve) thinks

 

Did you get around to it?

 

Not yet! I'm still researching. Since @SouthBoundSteve mentioned correcting the paint. I'm looking into inserting that step after claying. Looking into DA polishers etc.

On top of my truck my pop also has a first gen Tundra. I'm hoping to detail his as a treat for him.

 

303 question.

Got some 303 for the first time recently, really liking it on everything on the interior except the top of the dash. I am not getting the same results on the dash as say the door panels, can't really tell any difference in looks or feel after applying to the top of dash, have applied about 5-6 times with little affect. Even letting it soak for a bit.

Is this normal? The texture and finish of the dash is a bit different. Is there something else recommended for the dash?

This is a 2007 but in good shape, but the dash finish does seem dry, Kind of different from most other dashes that I have had. The dash is a Matt Black/dark gray color. Also applying in evening when it is cooler.

Thanks in advance!

 

Was thinking more weathered as well. Only have had truck for about 8 months now, tried some McGuire's wipes a while back, which were a marginally more effective but not very even, kind of streaky.

Guess I need more of a "restorer" if anything like that exists.

Thanks again.

 

Was pleasantly surprised with the foam cannon that came with my power washer. Not the best but works good enough for me. This pic is after some run off. Not too bad

 

I washed and IronX'd today. Then went ahead and used my clay mitt and wow is that thing amazing. I'll never clay again, so easy and quick. When I was done with "clay" I started to try out my DA buffer from harbor freight. I got some lake county pads for it and I'm starting to get the hang of it. I am doing one panel at a time. Polish, buff, Eraser, buff, ReLoad, buff. Coming along pretty well, will take me a couple days on and off I'm sure.
Before

After


The fine scratches and spider web swirls came out which is what I was hoping for.

 

Nice! now go put a shirt on

 

I've got a pressure washer with a built in foamer too.. got about the same results as you. For $25 from Amazon I bought a foam cannon... it kicks the piss out of the built in! I'll take some pics tonight when i foam the truck.

 

Jesus Jim you had me scared for a second lol

 

Thank, means a lot coming from you man. I called Steve mid way through today for some tips and encouragement. It's not nearly as nice as the work you guys do but I'm happy with it....so glad to be conquering my swirls finally!
Some day I'll do a decent paint correction and ceramic.

 

When I'm all done I think I may wanna throw a coat of wax over it all to really give it a deep wet look...for a few weeks anyway.

Plan is to polish panel by panel and use the reload as LSP. When I'm all done I'll probably do a full reload coat again. Then in a couple months use hydro2 to add extra protection for the winter.

I will say that if you guys have never used Eraser from carpro, its really....really nice. Smells great, works better than it smells. Makes everything so easy before adding final coat.

 

Thanks Jim. I'm really happy with it. And was easier than I expected.
One thing i notice more now is the amount of orange peel paint on this truck. You can see it in my pics. I'm not gonna fix that, just annoying to notice it now.
I'm happy with the scratches I was able to get out, i met my expectations which is rare hahaha.

 

I've definitely got the bug. I think because there are so many products and tools out there that make it so much easier than it ever was before. Makes it fun and doesn't burn so much time which has always held me back

 

Few minutes after I foamed with that $25 job I was talking about:

Probably not as good as if I had a 2600psi pressure washer (mines 1600 or 1800 don’t recall exactly at the moment). It does a decent job though. Worth the $25 for sure.