Ask the Detailer

Oh damn! I need to do this! Looks good!

 

clay bar should remove most water spots. If not hit it with a quick compound either by hand or with a DA on a light cutting pad.

 

Most people don't wash under the hood and those who do spray it with the hose or pressure washer....i used to just wipe it down with a wet cloth. I haven't touched under the hood in the tundra. I need to. I HATE having a dirty engine compartment.... makes working on it not fun and a PIA!

 

I dont do the pressure washer or hose on my vehicles engine compartment.... ever. I watched someone do it after mudding once and watch sparks fly. Never wanted that to happen. I'm definitely going to try your method!

 

I'm no shorty not for a woman anyways..... average height for a man

I doubt that.... besides i don't live on a very busy street...

 

1. What to use to take off asphalt
2. Got over spray from work-related is there anything I can do?
3 . I use a wash and wax is this sufficient? Should I separate these two steps?
4. When and how to use a clay bar.
5. Got scratches how should I buff out.

Thanks

 

1 & 2 - clay bar will remove most asphalt/tar and overspray that gets stuck to your clear coat. You can also try Iron Remover mixed in with your soap/foam. Let that sit Iron remover sit on the paint for a few minutes to work it loose. The Adams Iron Remover turns purple when its done.
3. Wash is good, wax is good. Sealants are better, ceramic coatings are probably the best. Wash your truck first, then clay bar it, then correct any paint issues like scratches, then follow with a protectant like wax, sealant or a ceramic coating.
4. After you wash, before you wax/seal
5. Use a DA polisher. Most people the first time their trucks require a 2 stage or 3 stage polish such as a compound, medium cut polish and a finish polish. Lots of threads on here about polishing.

Best of luck! Ask more questions if you have them.

 

I actually have some brushes I’ve bought just for this. Just haven’t gotten around to it. My wife and daughters need it a lot more than I do.

 

I also have to be very stingy with the Waxaddict now.....

 

Should do a group buy from them with people in the areas we live in.....

Why would they stop caring it here? Right when i was gonna get some

 

What do you guys that have the Paint Guard film do to get the Wax and or Clay bar residue off of the Edge of the Film. It really highlights the fact that the film is there. I can usually get the wax off with a Soft brush, but the clay bar is a little tougher to remove. TIA

 

I use a quick detailer (typically Griots Speed Shine or Chemical guys P40) with a microfiber.....sometimes I'll place a toothpick behind the microfiber and add some pressure right on the edge....I've come to hate that protection film

 

Thanks for the tips. Does it matter what brand PB?

 

I have the weekend off and daughter is away. Perfect time for a full detail right? I just checked the weather and it's gonna be 100°
Even in the shade I feel that's pushing its am I right? Idk when I'll have time again. I can do some in garage but still that's freaking hot!

 

It's ok to apply hydro2 and or reload in that heat as long as no sun? I can set up in shade and even use my pop up tent if need be.
I'm also worried about ironx, clay lube and every else drying too fast on the truck?

Steve, I have 2 mini splits in my house. I love them. Well worth it. If I had a garage shop I'd definitely get a ductless unit in there, you could get a window unit but the minis are really nice and so efficient being DC inverted, I run mine all summer and they increase the electric bill maybe 10-20%

 

I have one heat pump and one just ac, I did the ac one about 10 years ago and added second unit 2 years ago heat pump. Wish they were both heat pumps

 

I can also split it up into 2 days and get at it both days before it gets too hot. I think I'll go for it!

 

You can do either heat pump or straight ac. If it gets remotely cold there you might as well just get a heat pump. Make sure you have a reputable company install it. The main issue is not getting a proper flare on the refrigerant lines, and having it leak out over time. Practically anyone can install them, and there are a lot of hacks out there putting them in.

 

A "friend" told me if you have a dog and put peanut butter....never mind.

I will however say my friend Jim says this works for this purpose and I believe him for sure.

 

One thing I’ve started doing is carrying my supplies down to a self serve car wash when it’s hot. It gives you shade to work in, and spraying it down first will cool the surface. Costs a few bucks, but much easier than trying to race the sun.

 

Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm not a fan of the wet look for tires, but I would like to keep them looking new. Is there a product you can recommend for me? Possibly just a good UV protector that won't be shiny and is safe for tires?

 

There's waxaddict but that is kind of shiny but not that wet look. Aerospace 303 protectant may be what you're looking for, not very shiny but great UV protector for rubber,vinyl, plastic

 

If you can still get it....Blackfire Total Trim and Tire Sealant

 

What do you guys recommend as far as something I can use to remove light swirls by hand. I have these fine spiderweb looking swirls that I'd like to treat when I detail. And at what stage in my decon and sealant phases do I use it? Is it something I need to get cleaned off before i seal with reload or hydro2? Someone answered this for me about a month ago but I can't find the post now.
Thanks guys.

 

Is it ok to Clay Bar and ceramic coating your truck paint without damaging it.
Looking for the best way to maintain and make you paint last and look it’s best.
2015 white

 

Paint correction by hand is possible, but tedious. Below there's a link to another forum where detailing guru Mike Phillips discusses this very subject. Several companies, including Chemical Guys, offer cutting and polishing pads that are made to be used by hand. You'd correct your paint after you decon, but before the application of a sealant or wax. Some folks say that you have to do an IPA wipedown to remove polishing oils before sealant or wax, others say you do not.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ow-cut-hand.html?highlight=correction+by+hand

 

Senor @SouthBoundSteve ,
The wife is traveling for work for the next two weeks, so the garage is mine! I've got a red toyota matrix commuter car that at one point was meticulously washed (and waxed at least twice a year). I've been slacking the last year and a half on washing/waxing ever since i got the Tundra.

Now that i'm going to have some garage space and extra time in the evenings, I'm thinking i want to do a good correction and possibly a ceramic coating since i'm going to spend a good amount of time getting this sucker lookin' like a new penny.

Here's what i'm thinking:
rinse off the big chunks
IronX and bug remover to remove contaminates
Wash with something that will take all the existing wax and dirt off (maybe just dawn dish soap?)
clay bar

$24 Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System for Car Detailing, Kit Includes Detailer, 3 Clay Bars, and Microfiber Towel (07240)

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-0724...=UTF8&qid=1531506050&sr=1-4&keywords=clay+bar
If the paint still has marks in it, then polish (i've got some of this

$14 Meguiar's ULTIMATE POLISH (16 OZ)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19...6242&sr=1-1&keywords=maguires+ultimate+polish and a maguires polisher to correct the paint if needed)
Then i'm thinking i'll use Cquartz for the top coat.

How does this process sound? Missing anything?

 

Thanks Steve. I was hoping youd chime in. I was going to ironx, clay, then try megs ultimate polish, and finally use eraser before I apply my sealant. I have a palm orbital polisher but from what I've read it wont help much and I should get a legit DA polisher