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Ask the Detailer

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by T-Rex266, Nov 13, 2017.

  1. Oct 19, 2019 at 9:10 AM
    #1471
    robz

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    Hi Brad,
    Like they say, better late than never. The good news is Yes, your paint is still salvageable. The bad news, Yes, it will take some time to achieve your goal.

    War Marchine's suggestion is a great start, however that will not remove any of the lines/swirl marks present, his steps will prepare your paint surface for polish, which is required in your case to remove some if not most of the swirl marks on your paint.
    Some more good news, with current DA polishers you run literally zero risk of messing up your paint, and as you stated youtube university has some excellent tutorials on how to polish and prepare your paint surface.

    Yes, the Nanoskin mitt will be better than regular clay. Also the griots garage synthetic clay will also do a great job and it is available at any autoparts store.
    As far as time investment you are looking at least at a full day of work.
     
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  2. Oct 19, 2019 at 10:40 AM
    #1472
    bradleykd

    bradleykd New Member

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    Alright. I'm committed!

    I'll order the iron x and mitt. I've got plenty of Meguires detail spray, is that what is recommended to use as a lube for the mitt?

    As far as sealing after, I have always used Turtle Wax Black spray wax after a wash. I'm sure that is baby shit compared to what you guys do. What do you recommend after the clay mitt?

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but here is the process I'm planning right now:

    Wash with Dawn to strip everything > Dry > Iron X > Spray off > Nanoskin Mitt > Wash and dry with regular carwash soap > Dry > Wax??

    If I'm not happy with those results I'll crawl deeper down the rabbit hole and get some pads for my DA and learn the buffing/polishing process.

    I know the Bead Maker is a favorite here, I assume this is the last step after wax?
     
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  3. Oct 21, 2019 at 5:21 AM
    #1473
    War Machine

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    That detail spray should be fine as a clay lube. I have dedicated clay lube, but just as often I use whatever detail spray I have sitting around.

    I haven’t used the Turtle Wax Spray wax, so I can’t comment on it. I’m not a big fan of spray waxes, I prefer paste wax for the most part. Turtle Wax has a newer product called Seal n Shine that’s pretty decent, but if you want cheap and easy, I’d recommend Meguair’s hybrid ceramic wax. It’s cheap and easy to find at Walmart.

    If you want to step it up from a retail product, and go for something long lasting, there’s quite a few really good options. Some of my favorites are:

    Jescar Powerlock - a little more work to apply, but lasts a really long time. Leaves a good finish.

    Shine Supply Cherry Silica Wax - Similar to Powerlock, but leaves a better finish, much more gloss. Does cost more though.

    Carpro Hydro2 - Easiest to apply, lasts several months. Expensive, and doesn’t leave much, if any gloss. I use this as a base for Beadmaker or Reload.

    Carpro Reload - The best all around of the spray sealants. Lasts several months, leaves a nice finish.

    Beadmaker - Cheap, easy to apply, leaves the absolute best finish of all the products I’ve used. Super slick and hydrophobic. Low end of durability. Starts to degrade after about a month.

    As for Beadmaker over wax, I’d choose one or the other. Neither is going to last a very long time, and both will leave a similar finish. Beadmaker is kind of a halfway point between wax and sealant. It leaves a nicer finish than other sealants do, but doesn’t hold up as long. It lasts longer than a traditional wax, but not as long as the other sealants.
    The exception would be something like Shine Supply Cherry Silica Wax. Unlike other waxes, it contains sio2 (30%), so it should have a pretty long life on the paint. I’ve only just started using it, so I can’t guarantee durability, but I expect it to be pretty strong.
    I’ve been using it a good bit lately, and it may become my new go to on my vehicles. I’m really impressed with the finish. Just takes a bit more work than a spray product. A DA with a waxing pad makes it a lot easier though.
     
  4. Oct 21, 2019 at 5:51 AM
    #1474
    Fotnot

    Fotnot SSEM #69; LRCS#1

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  5. Oct 21, 2019 at 6:02 AM
    #1475
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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  6. Oct 21, 2019 at 8:49 AM
    #1476
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Works very well....been very satisfied with it so far
     
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  7. Oct 21, 2019 at 8:50 AM
    #1477
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    It's what we do
     
  8. Oct 21, 2019 at 9:27 AM
    #1478
    robz

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    For clay lube you can even use the same water and car wash soap mixture you used to wash the truck. No need to use a detail spray, if you have great, if not don't spend on it.

    I've used the turtle wax products with okay results, after find that you can get the Griots stuff on autoparts stores, that has been my go to for jobs that have a high budget but I can still offer great results. I agree with War Machine spray waxes don't offer the same protection as paste waxes. Now something you need to keep in mind that waxes in general are fillers, as such, they will make the surface look great at first, but the polymers on the wax will degrade over time and the swirl marks and scratches will appear again, that's why I recommended to go ahead and polish, as that will offer a permanent result (provided you seal it properly and have good car washing practices afterwards).

    The prep process is as follows (please use dual bucket method):
    Rinse truck > Iron X (use soft brush on emblems and highly contaminated areas to help release/soften caked contaminants) > Rinse truck > wash with soap > Rinse > clay/nanoskin mitt > wash > rinse > dry.

    After drying you have two options, one continue with a DA and polish, two apply paste wax and remove. If you decide to go the wax route, but are not happy with the results, then you will need to remove that layer of protection again in order to proceed with polishing.

    One of my favorite waxes is Fuzo from Soft 99, expensive but provides great longevity. If you want something easily attainable I would recommend the Griots Best of show paste wax, you can find it at you local autoparts store. I've been using for 3 years with outstanding results and smells pretty good too :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2019
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  9. Oct 21, 2019 at 9:59 AM
    #1479
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Washing with Dawn will not guarantee stripping old wax/sealant. Most of the Youtube videos you see supporting this theory show the water laying flat on the surface, which is more likely the work of the surfactants in Dawn as opposed to it's ability to strip wax. Purple Power Boat and Vehicle wash will, due to its high Ph, do the job for you. Since you're going to go that route, here's a link to whats called "The Aggressive Approach" to getting a car ready for polish and LSP (wax/sealant), bu Mike Philips....I think you'll find it very informative:

    https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ps/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html
     
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  10. Oct 21, 2019 at 12:35 PM
    #1480
    Bust

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    I would think whatever soap you use, when you iron x and clay, that process should have removed any prior products you happen to have on the paint. Am I correct with this? Thought that is what someone told me at one point. When I first started, that was my thought was to use Dawn to strip, but I was informed about the process above would essentially do that. I could be 100% incorrect
     
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  11. Oct 21, 2019 at 12:47 PM
    #1481
    robz

    robz New Member

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    You are correct. You can even use a wheel cleaner, like P&S Brake buster and it will get rid of any protection left over.
    Bear in mind this does not apply for ceramic coatings. Removing those require more work.
     
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  12. Oct 21, 2019 at 4:42 PM
    #1482
    bradleykd

    bradleykd New Member

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    This is awesome guys! Thanks for all of the help! I’m pretty sure I could easily spiral down the path of so many of you!
     
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  13. Oct 21, 2019 at 8:29 PM
    #1483
    Bust

    Bust New Member

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    Haha, I joined and the next thing you know, I'll let least $400 light and spending more time on my truck than I ever have
     
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  14. Oct 22, 2019 at 5:14 AM
    #1484
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    First step to becoming a detailing enthusiast: Buy a black truck.
     
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  15. Oct 22, 2019 at 5:51 AM
    #1485
    bradleykd

    bradleykd New Member

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    Funny thing is, I've always owned a black vehicle, hence the knowledge of no automatic carwashes and the 2 bucket method. I have always just done the wash, spray wax, and detail spray to maintain it though. This has always kept them looking better than the masses, but the things in this thread seem to be what is required to keep up with those that I see and my jaw drops. :)
     
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  16. Oct 22, 2019 at 6:03 AM
    #1486
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    I didn’t know squat about it until I got a black Tundra and joined here. I always used automatic washes, even with my old red Tundra.
     
  17. Oct 22, 2019 at 9:19 AM
    #1487
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Black is not a color...it is a lifestyle. For what it's worth, I got away from the two bucket method a while ago. I now use the "one bucket, lotsa wash mitts" method, which can be seen by watching Apex Detail videos on Youtube. There is also a video by Larry Kosilla (owner of AMMO NYC), where he goes over how to wash a vehicle in almost painful detail. Larry talks a lot, so you have to be patient. I spend a lot of time watching other detailers and learning from their processes.
     
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  18. Oct 22, 2019 at 10:28 AM
    #1488
    K1NJO

    K1NJO New Member

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    Are there guidelines/tips as to when a surface should be sprayed directly, vs spraying onto microfiber first?
     
  19. Oct 22, 2019 at 10:40 AM
    #1489
    War Machine

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    Some products do call for it to be sprayed on the towel and applied that way, but most are made to be sprayed directly on the paint. Just read the directions.

    The only real caveat to that is in direct sunlight / high temperature situations. In that case it’s generally better to spray the towel and wipe it on.
     
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  20. Oct 22, 2019 at 10:51 AM
    #1490
    Pudge

    Pudge Super Secret Elite Member #7

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    Like Jason said, most of the time spraying right on the truck is the way to go, except in the sun or extreme heat when streaking ks likely. The directions on the bottles are usually pretty clear on how to apply, often including different methods if you note streaks.
     
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  21. Oct 22, 2019 at 3:05 PM
    #1491
    Taco-Blender

    Taco-Blender Old Guys Rule

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    Hey longhorn,
    It looks like your question got lost in the shuffle.

    I know nothing about the Adams polisher but I also use the PC DA. Another option, I bought a 3 inch backing plate and a variety of 3 inch pads for the PC and that seems to work pretty well in the tighter spots, at least for me.

    Hope that helps.
     
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  22. Oct 22, 2019 at 4:58 PM
    #1492
    Pudge

    Pudge Super Secret Elite Member #7

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    I haven't read anything about the Adam's swirl killer either but I do know that if I had the choice, I would do the same as you. The PC is a good tool, probably as good as the Adam's DA. It would be more economical to go the route you did with the 3" backing plate and pads. If I wanted to spend money on a new DA, I would consider buying another polisher like a Griot's DA to use 5 and 6 inch pads with, and run the PC as a dedicated 3" unit.
     
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  23. Oct 23, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    #1493
    War Machine

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    Sorry we didn’t respond to this in a timely manner. I’ve never used or read any reviews on the Adams DA, so I had nothing to add.
    It looks like they are nearly $300.00. That puts it in the price range of a Rupes, which is considered top of the line for polishers. If I were going to spend that kind of money I’d definitely go with Rupes.
     
  24. Oct 23, 2019 at 3:46 PM
    #1494
    jpod

    jpod its Finally here

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    So, windows...

    Can you use beadmaker, hydro2, and/or others or do you have to make sure you don’t do that?

    Also just ordered a diamondback HD (woohoo!) and I know you shouldn’t wax it but what else do you do with it (if anything)?

    Thanks
     
  25. Oct 23, 2019 at 4:50 PM
    #1495
    Pudge

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    I use hydro2 and beadmaker on windows and windshields. With hydro2 it's almost unavoidable because of the application process. Just be sure you get it dried off quickly so it doesn't leave water spots. I have used other spray sealants, as well as a liquid sealant(jescar powerlock) on windows with no issues, same goes for polishes, I used to polish the glass with regular polish til I bought some glass polish (carpro ceriglass) and I had no problems. Disclaimer: I do not know if it's a good idea or not to do any of what I mentioned above, but I have done that stuff without any problems.

    One issue that I have heard of with using certain products on the windshield is "wiper chatter". I never noticed anything wrong or any of the whatever chatter is.

    I can't help with the diamond back tonneau, what is the finish? I think that something like hydro2 would be fine as long as you rinse and dry it well. Again hydro2 is really prone to streaking and spotting, at least for me it is.
    I have a vinyl roll up stylevtonneau, Bak revolver x2, and I use 303, waxaddict, carpro perl, lexol vinyl....but totally different material I'm sure.
     
  26. Oct 23, 2019 at 5:01 PM
    #1496
    jpod

    jpod its Finally here

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    Thanks! I just wanted to make sure they wouldn’t leave greasy films.

    The diamondback is a rough matt finish like linex. It may actually be linex. It’s on diamond plate aluminum. So nothing glossy. Just uv/protection is all it needs, if that.
     
  27. Oct 23, 2019 at 5:10 PM
    #1497
    Pudge

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    In that case I think hydro2 would be ideal as long as you can get it dried off okay. @mgm16trdpro had a DB and maybe can chime in with what he uses for it. Some detailing companies make sealants specifically for matte finishes so maybe that's something to look into? I guess it all depends on what the finish actually is, ie linex vs powder coat vs paint.
     
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  28. Oct 23, 2019 at 6:01 PM
    #1498
    War Machine

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    Yes, most are fine on glass. Beadmaker and Powerlock work especially well on it.

    As for your bedcover, I have a Bakflip MX4, and pretty much anything works on it, but nothing will stay on it long term. I’ve yet to find any kind of sealant that will bond with it, and I’ve tried almost everything.
     
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  29. Oct 23, 2019 at 10:28 PM
    #1499
    Bust

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    I actually picked up Griot's glass clay and clayed all my glass, cleaned and rain x, finally my windshield wipers don't chatter anymore. Buttery smooth and the water beads right off. Too bad rain x doesn't have much durability...
     
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  30. Oct 24, 2019 at 4:04 AM
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    War Machine

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    I actually use the Rain X wiper fluid. It really seems to work well, and a gallon is super cheap at Walmart. Between that and Powerlock, I really don’t even need to use my wipers when it’s raining as long as I’m going relatively fast.
     
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