Ask the Detailer

Take it to a shop that does wraps and ppf. They will provide the best feedback, but your paint may already be affected even if they can remove the film without affecting the paint more.

This is on my current worries of getting the ppf replaced before it gets to this stage. I really wish you luck, let us know the results and share pics if you are willing of before removal, post removal, and if they add new film back.

 

One quote I’ve gotten was a sliding scale between $300-500. I’ve watched some YouTube vids on it and may try a couple of those ideas. We rotate onto saturdays next weekend so I can work on it at the station if we have a slow day. I’ve also given thought to just having my body shop guy look for a used hood and paint it and swap them out. I will post up whatever I decide.

 

That's good advice. To answer your question....there is no 'best' way I'm aware of for removing PPF that is in that condition. Situations like this are just one of the reasons I dislike PPF.

 

I am in the same situation with peeling hood PPF. I tried GooGone in a small spot and that took a fair amount of it off. I left the GooGone on for a few minutes in the sun, scraped it off with a old credit card, and washed it all off with dish soap & water. TBD if that messed up the paint or not. I'm not going to try more until I see what happens, nor am I recommending this right now.

 

With Armor All no longer making their Brake Cleaner Dust Repellent, has anyone found a replacement product? I’m on my last can and this stuff is outstanding. For those of you with a German car, this is a necessity. I understand different pads would help, or I could coat them with something that would make them easier to clean, but this stuff really does prevent the build up. A quick spray after each wash and this stuff lasts for weeks.

 

A few weeks ago I used a towel and hot water on a 90+ day to try and soften it up, then peel it slowly using a soft putty knife to start it then peel it by hand. GooGone for the adhesive residue. This spot took about an hour. We went through a move and I haven’t time since. Not sure what I’m gonna try next.

 

Oh man, you've got quite a bit more than me. Mine is just near the front. A lot of it has peeled/chipped off already but some of it's still there and other parts are just the adhesive residue. My finger is pointing to where I tried the GooGone, but I was conservative with the scraping and didn't get all the residue.

Well done getting that much off though. It's time consuming for sure.

 

Agreed! I'm beginning to wonder if buying a used hood and having it painted would be less aggravation in a time v money equation.

 

Definitely the path I'd take in your shoes. Can probably even find one in your white at a salvage yard and it could be a easier swap.

 

Yeah, a few of my friends looked at the hood and said sorry about your bad luck. What a bunch of pals

 

Anyone got a recommendation for the "vegan leather" on a tesla? I tried using some CarPro Pearl, and not sure if i really need to hit it hard, but it didn't really go on all that even. Its a brand new tesla, so maybe it just need a good coating

 

I think I have some or similar, ill hit it with some cleaner and give it a try.
Thanks for the recomendation

 

I don't have any knowledge of PPF and how hard it is to get off but here's some food for thought. If you're already considering finding a used hood and having it painted, is it possible to sand blast or sand the ppf off of your current hood?

 

That could definitely be an option at this point. Downtime for the truck is a concern since its my daily.

 

Looking to do some detailing/minor paint correction and polish/wax the ol’ tundra, never been done and feel like it’s looking a bit dull and a few minor scratches here and there. Along with a clay bar kit from chemical guys on scamazon, I saw this kit on sale this weekend direct from CG, seems like a decent deal. I have no experience using a polisher/buffer machine would this be a good beginner setup? Should I just be looking at a 1 step polish approach vs a 2 step? Any advice much appreciated! https://www.chemicalguys.com/produc...MIkrfosICijwMVx9TCBB3AthgWEAQYAiABEgIf5_D_BwE

 

I’ve had the CG polisher in the past, and it works fine, but the Griots G9 is much better and about the same price.
https://www.griotsgarage.com/g9-orbital-correct-protect-kit/


As for your second question, try a one step first. It’s always best to start with the least aggressive method. If that doesn’t do the trick you can always step up to a more aggressive approach.

In my experience, a one step is almost always good enough.

 

After digging a little deeper into this thread that’s what I came up with too, passed on the CG kit and found a good deal 20% off the Griots G9 and also added the 5” backing plate kit that comes with the pads all for under $200. Should be here tomorrow! Went with 3D ONE for polish, Adam’s iron remover, Adam’s fine clay bar and detail spray. Haven’t chosen a wax yet but still have some time to pick something out. I started this just looking to de-badge and put on new black emblems and didn’t want any ghosting once the old emblems are off, might just leave it de-badged if I like it once I see it. Waiting on 3M eraser wheel to get here too before I start anything. Thanks for all the great information in this thread it really helps, still have so much to read!

 

I don't speak on behalf of everyone, but I've found that waxes are almost....almost....a thing of the past. Sealants have come a long way that can protect and even add some pop, depending on which one you get, that can last as long as waxes or much longer. Just a thought to throw at you as you go down this rabbit hole. If wanting suggestions, feel free to ask this group. Some are really easy and can be picked up locally, and some are needing to be ordered. Again, depends how deep you want to go (get your mind out the gutter guys. I know it's hard to hear me say that without perverted thoughts come up )

 

Has anyone here used Jescar Powerlock Plus? Seems like it has good reviews.
https://www.detailedimage.com/Jescar-M89/Power-Lock-Polymer-Sealant-P443/16oz-S1/

 

Good to hear, I think I’ll give it a try!

 

If youre going to do a paint correction after claying, id recommend at least a medium clay bar. That light one might not get everything off the surface. Since your correcting afterwards, any possible paint marring from claying will be corrected. I'd save the light bar for maintenance or instances where you won't polish afterwards

 

In addition to the light clay bar, I got the Adam’s clay mitt that came with the clay lube spray. Should I use an actual bar instead of the mitt? The mitt says medium grade on it but have read it is more a speed or time saver and doesn’t remove quite as well as actual medium clay bar? Any other brands out there that might be better preferred or are they all about the same as far as clay goes?