Ask the Detailer

Clean with AP. I use Classy Chassis by Shine Supply for gloss.

 

I watch a lot of videos on detailing and my technique is improving but I have a question. On virtually every video I have seen they seem to scrub the seats first and leave the upright portion to do secondly. To me that seems bass akwards but I'm still new to the game. Why would you do the upright portion after you have done the seats first?

 

In my experience, the bottom portion is usually dirtier then the back. I start there and then do the back after because it's less dirty.

 

Makes sense....thanks for the reply

 

Any all purpose cleaner will do for the cleaning portion. I use Bilt Hamber Surfex HD diluted at 10:1. Pick up one of those inexpensive garden pump sprayers from Home Depot to apply the APC. To dress them up......some good options out there. As ToyoMafia noted, Claasy Chassis is one. You can also use Stoners Trim Shine (easy because its an aerosol), Chemical Guys Bare Bones, Meguiars Hyper Dressing, Adams Undercarriage Spray, Griots Black Shine (aerosol) or Griots Undercarriage spray.

 

@briarpatch
Will not go into how it happened but I managed to get several drops of Mobile 1 0W20 on the seat fabric on rear seat. (SR5 CM) Is there a way or secret to get these unsightly wet looking spots out of the fabric? Only thing I have tried was a GP cleaner mixture but that did not work. Thoughts or comments? Thanks

Edited to say....the oil was new oil not used.

 

My first thought would be to blot those spots as well as you can to dry and draw as much oil out as possible. Just out of curiosity....how large are these spots?

 

So last week when it happened I did blot it and then attempted the GP mixture to clean it. So now the largest “wet” looking stain is about 3 inches in diameter. Stain doesn’t look discolored just wet. I’ll try and post a picture Saturday when I’m back in town.
How it happened: New oil jug leaked and got on bottom of adjunct plastic sack. Sack was placed on seat.

 

Steam extractor perhaps? That’s going to be a tough one. I’d say use some degreaser, but I’d be weary of how aggressive it would be.

 

@Heath423
Try spraying brake cleaner on a nice clean micro fiber towel and see if you can clean some away. I’ve had very good luck around the shop with carpet and seat cover stains.
I wouldn’t be afraid to soak the small spot with the can and see if it blots up.
Good Luck

 

I was going to clean some of the leather in the truck today while waiting on my daughter at her tumbling class. At lunch, the bottle of Lexol leather cleaner top busted off and poured half a bottle (remainder of it) all over my mats.
So now my vehicle, hands, and even clothes smell like leather.
The bad part is that it poured over the all weather mat and into the carpet. So it looks like I'll be trying to get that out. Luckily it's clear and smells decent.
Now I'm going to be changing leather cleaners since I can't find Lexol anywhere around me. I think I had bought the last bottles in town a while back

 

Most coating manufacturers/vendors recommend some type of booster to help maintain it, and help with longevity. I stayed within the brand, and use Gyeon Ceramic Detailer as a topper/maintenance product for MOHS EVO. I do not see a reason why that product you linked to would not work. but I'm also unfamiliar with Undrdog coatings. Reach out to Ckatz on this forum...I know he uses Undrdog coatings a lot...see what he recommends

 

It would act as a booster. Probably apply every 3-6 months depending on vehicle usage. Would you be better off using UD detail spray? If understand UD isn’t a ceramic, so may see better luck staying in same product line.

 

Staying within the line, UD Quick Detailer (actually a sealant) is all you need. I've had it last 4 months as a standalone and only reason I can't say it goes any longer or not is because the vehicle was washed and reapplied. A wash, dry, and a couple sprays per panel suffices.

But honestly the whole "stay within the product line" is a gimmick to keep you buying their products. Any sealant spray that you like will work. I just genuinely like their QD spray so I use that on everything, coated or not.

 

In theory, you don't need it. That's the big push with UD...never needing a topper. However it ensures an extra barrier to be destroyed before the coating and then the car. Most folks I maintain their coatings for I see them twice a year and reapply QD then. I'm there, so why not. What's an extra 10 minutes if you're already washing it.

 

Quick question for everyone, what if anything other than a wash do you do to your truck bed as far as detailing goes? My 07 has a cap and it's a PITA to climb inside the bed to clean the windows esp the front window, and my bed is scratched to chit so there is really no point in going crazy there. Do you guys give the bed a full detail/wax or what exactly do you do. I love having a cap but it's tough to really clean in there. Thanks.

 

If Im understanding this correctly, you're asking about the area under the cap but in the bed? I'd just clean it as needed like the inside of the cab. Depends on your level of"clean" on both lol. My cab isn't spotless but when I have to clean it's a light vac and picking up receipts that got flown by rolling down the back window!

 

How can I remove hard water spots off my paint and windows?

 

neighbor used some CarPro Descale and Lift and said it was amazing how well it worked. we have hard water, and he stated that it dissolved all of that.
it's supposedly ceramic safe. anyone familiar with this?
he said he used Lift in his foamer, then Descale in his wash bucket

 

My bed liner is LineX I wash and apply a product called “Clutch” from shine supply to make it look new. It brings out the black and does not make it slick.

 

Was just looking into this stuff. It is allegedly safe for coated cars....I may give it a shot on my next maintenance wash, as I'm heading for the 6-month mark on my coating.

 

I'm at just around 18 months I think on my cquartz 3.0 with hydro2 thrown on every 6 months or so.
My neighbor told me to come get it next time I want to. He said it did amazing!

 

I need to order this for my steps

 

I want to start doing some rinseless washes on my black truck only when it's lightly dirty/dusty.

I was watching a vid the other day with the grand poo bah of rinseless Yvan using a DIY rinceless. He said to add 1oz per gal of wash water, my onr says 1oz/2 gal. Just wondering if any on here add that much onr to the water or is 1oz enough?

I plan on rinsing the truck first with onr (1oz/2 gal?) then using 4/5 wash mitts in a bucket of onr for contact and finish with onr as a detail to help dry.

My truck is coated by the way (me). Any other tips for this type of wash or is it just to risky on black?

 

Sounds like the Gary Dean method but with wash mitts. I don't think you're gonna have enough solution in the bucket with that many mitts.
I'd just go the sponge route if it's not really dirty. I seem to have streaking with ONR using as a drying aid everytime. Nothing major just enough to bother me at the right angle that I have to buff off.
I'd say with black just make sure you keep clean and possibly not reuse anything on each wash until it's been through the wash. If you don't have grit guards get some also.
I'm sure someone else will chime in because you've been brave enough to buy a black truck!