Another JBL amp bypass thread

I have a 2005 DC JBL that I got last summer and I'm finally sick of not having a decent stereo. It came with a single din stereo with 16pin? harness that I briefly tried to rewire to a 20pin harness from an old Atoto headunit that I pulled out of a prior vehicle. This plan didn't work and I realized at that point that the factory harness had been hacked up and I put this in the back burner.
Factory harness a bit mangled up front.



Factory harness cut at the JBL amp behind the driver side rear seat.


It also came with the Axxess box for steering wheel controls

 

I am hoping for some assistance on this as I am a noob. I got the

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117 amp bypass harness (includes a short 70-8113 wiring harness)
and a new

$13 Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles

Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness. I am trying to figure out and wire up all of the harness connections. I have attached documentation for these two harnesses. Screenshot shows the instruction sheet for Metra 70-8117. I have highlighted in yellow the wires that are not used and in pink that are used. How do I connect the pink highlighted wires? Where do these get connected?

Edit: Deleted inaccurate Metra 70-8117 instructions PDF. See Post #15 below for accurate Crutchfield PDF

 

Here is my current harness in progress.


I apologize for flipping camera orientation.
And obviously I'm using Posilocks rather than soldering.
Thank you in advance gentlemen for taking a look at this ....appreciate it

 

I have no experience with the bypass as I have the non-JBL FGT. My only question is, did you read through this thread first (I assume you did based on your thread title) and was it not helpful? I only ask because it seems silly to have multiple threads on the same topic. Please forgive me if my reply seems rude. It's not meant that way. I'm always curious about this stuff 1st Gen factory amplifier locations (JBL, non-JBL, all cabs) | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Thank you for checking this out. I have read through a lot (most) of the stereo threads over the past 6 months , specifically focussing on the

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117 amp bypass threads. I have not seen this question answered although these threads have certainly been helpful

 

I taped off the ends of the wires that are not needed according to the

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117 instructions.
These remaining wires do match up with pink highlighted wires on the instruction sheet

 

Go to Crutchfield, get your radio and opt for the ReadyHarness upon checkout. Worth every penny.

 

I hear you and I probably should have gone that route and had a headunit installed months ago rather than just listening to my phone or to the wind
Problem is, I already have a couple Android headunits from other vehicles including the Atoto I am trying to install now. I'd prefer to use what I've already got, if possible!

 

Below are the wires listed in the instruction PDF and highlighted in pink from the

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117 harness that I'm trying to figure out how to connect.

Green white - Left front door woofer (+)
White red - Left front door woofer (-)
Brown yellow - Right front door woofer (+)
Brown blue - Right front door woofer (-)

Fingers crossed shifty or bubba read this

 

Add an @ before typing a member name and they'll get an alert.
Audio King @shifty` will be along shortly
Soooo....you can't simply plug the speaker connector into the amp bypass connector....is that what I am seeing back there ?

 

I mean, I'm reading it, but I fail to see what the problem is, clearly. You've also left a lot of questions unanswered for me, to the point I don't feel confident answering. Instead I'll recap and ask a few Q's

Per THIS IMAGE, I see someone cut the amp harness and installed aftermarket speaker wires wiring, then routed the speaker wires to pop out of the dash as seen HERE.

First question: Have you pulled that extra speaker wire out, and mended the JBL OEM amp harness, properly, either using butt splices (not ideal) or solder and heatshrink?

I also see you've already crimped the amp bypass harness to your new stereo. You're supposed to plug the white connector of that harness to the newly-repaired amp harness, tape the wires up and route to the dash, then cut off the extra couple feet of wire and crimp, that way you don't end up with a couple feet of extra wire with nowhere to cleanly tuck away. It's fine, I'm sure you'll find a place for it.

Observation, I see lots of electrical tape. That makes me uncomfortable. Electrical tape is not a substitute for heatshrink. Likewise, a clean cut on the end of a wire is typically sufficient to terminate, then take all unterminated wires after and maybe electrical tape or shrinkwrap together so they can't arc.

Next, I see you're using the ASWC harness, 70-8114. I'm attaching the PDF. You see the white 4-wire connector in THIS PIC? The red ASWC wire needs to be attached to the red wire of that harness (along with the radio red) and the black ASWC wire of to the black of that harness (also along with radio black). My advice: for cleaniness, twist the ASWC and little white harness wires together. Crimp them into one end of a butt splice. Now crimp them to the single radio wire. Repeat with red and black only. You should have no spare wires.

Do that, then send a pic of the harness.

Gimme a sec and I'll check on the amp wiring confusion.

 

Next question. Did you find this wire stuffed in the back of your dash?

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It plugs into this connection on the Axxess ASWC.

​

 

Probably was unnecessary for me to post those photos to show what I saw when I first opened it up. I will have all that cleaned up and back to factory before installing the new harness. Thank you!

 

I'll read through this closely when I get back home and have the harness in front of me. Thank you!

 

Lastly ... amp bypass wiring. I'm attaching the correct bypass harness PDF for the

$34 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

70-8117 here. You mind deleting the one from your post above so others don't get confused later?

I ended up getting sidetracked. FIL is in town and we just got snowed-in, relatively speaking. Had to make tomato soup and grilled cheese for everyone.

Im going to loop back with you on this tomorrow. I didn’t finish reading the Metra instructions but I’m going to give you instructions - now I know how the 8 speaker system works thanks to another member - to create a series circuit with the front speakers, then figure out what to do with the rears so we don’t overload the budget ATOTO head unit.

But I need a big screen to do it but I’m on a smartphone at this point.

 

First off shifty, thank you (and others who have posted) for your help with this.

Deleted that PDF attachment.

I will try to restore all wiring harnesses back to factory. The cut wires that plugged into the amp will be soldered with heat shrink. I was planning to leave the ghetto white speaker wire amp bypass in place until using it to pull the

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117 amp bypass harness from the dash in front , under the carpet, back to the amp out harness connector behind the driver side rear seat.

Some factory wires were cut and some were intact but the insulation had been peeled back by a previous owner so I wrapped those in electrical tape. I plan to add Tessa tape to hold all this together and hopefully not unravel or turn into black goo in the summer heat.

I'll crimp those wires and have a photo shortly.

 

I crimped the 3 red wires and also the 3 black wires. I added heat shrink to take off some of the tension.



Below are the remaining wires from the

$34 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

70-8117 bypass harness. I'll match these with the Crutchfield PDF today.


And below is the old ASWC harness that was with the truck when I bought it. The white connector is cut off. Is this correct? Obviously I've got the new one wired into my harness already.

 

I'm breaking my replies up into two replies. Here's the first. Will work on bypass wiring details after. I just want to see what Metra suggests, what Crutchfield suggests, and what makes logical sense. Because with JBL OEM system you have three speakers in each front door, served signals by only four wires, and each wire pair to each front door has a 2ohm load.



I have NFC what the hell the previous person was thinking by cutting that harness off the Axxess adapter. If I remember my setup, that should plug in as you see here, and it's why I asked if you found that steering wheel control harness in the dash. I am sadly suspecting the fuckwad who had your truck before may've cut it off and hardwired the ASWC, which is even more idiotic than cutting the factory radio harnesses

Can you confirm if you see the steering wheel controls harness in your dash, since I can't see that much in your pics?

​

 

On the

$34 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

70-8117 JBL amp bypass, here's what I'm reading in Crutchfield's instructions ... based on what I'm boxing up in the 1st pic, which I edited to cut out "noise" from their doc and only Tundra-specific info, I've then added markup to the 2nd pic for you to follow. Basically it looks like:

• The top 4 wires in the image get capped, I'd cut the four of them so there's no risk of the pre-cut sheath sliding off, then bundle the ends of those 4 wires together with a shot piece of heatshrink
• The middle wires for the rear speakers (purple/green and their matching black-stripe wires) are one-to-one and you already have that done correctly.
  
• The bottom 4 wires get twisted together as shown, I'm going to assume they're creating a series circuit for the door speakers using this combo, but I'd need to dig into the EWD to be sure.

Clear as mud, right?

Hopefully having it in image format helps significantly.

If you have any color vision deficiency issues (I have several friends with red/green deficiency), LMK if any of the colors I'm using aren't clear.

​

 

Appreciate this!
I will go through this closely when I return home tonight/tomorrow morning and deal with the wires like you've outlined. I'll also verify that the ASWC white connector fits what that connection in the dash. More photos to come....

And I'm really looking forward to having a real headunit again

 

I would've never survived as long as you have. I'd have gone nuts. My biggest fear with any car I buy is popping out a radio and finding cut harnesses. I try to buy used cars that haven't had any audio work done to them, still running OEM head unit. And I always ask about radio harnesses if someone put an aftermarket unit in. Dealing with un-fuckering some other assholes' cheapskatery in not spending an extra $10 on an adapter harness, which ultimately makes the install easier to boot, it just ... ugh. It sucks.

 

I followed the shifty's directions above and crimped 3 wires x4.


Shortly, I'll check the connector in dash for the ASWC.

 

The orange/green wire (looks yellow/green) doesn't look very orange, but it is in the correct location directly across from red/green.


Put heat shrink around the 4 unused wires.

 

As expected, both of the white connectors on the headunit side of my new harness fit. Thank you shifty!

Now I only need to solder the cut harness by the amp. I think I'll finally have a functioning headunit by this weekend.

 

Small OCD point from my side.

I know all the companies pre-cut the sheath to make our lives easier, but if you aren't using a wire, don't just leave it the way they shipped it.

Two big reasons: (1) If that wire carries voltage or signal, if it folds over like that orange/black wire, you're exposing copper that can easily ground out to something back in the dash, and (2) the small piece of wire sheath can simply come off, and then you're guaranteed to arc. This is similar to house/office wiring, where you always want to cap any non-ground wire, with something (usually for those you use wire nuts, you have options with automotive)

There are a few ways, and I shared one with you wherein you trim the wire to remove the loose sheath, bundle those wires together, and heatshrink, ideally with a little 1mm-3mm extra hanging off the end to the tips don't poke anything. You can technically just cut the end off and leave the wires floating, I only recommend heatshrink b/c if you've got it, it's just ... cleaner, less clutter, it's the smoothest way. One guy at the shop I worked at would throw a buttsplice on the end of all wires, and only crimp the ones he needed (pissed the shop owner off, waste of supplies). I know people who'll get low-voltage wire nuts and wire nut the ends off, or use the end crimps you used on the triple-wire bits, but that adds clutter also. It's really your call, but ... it's something to be careful about, to avoid issues/annoyances later.

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Got it! I disconnected the harness right after that photo. I will deal with those loose wires ends before install. As I recall, the Orange wire is labeled Dimmer and the Brown is labeled Parking Brake so I need to figure out where to connect those.
And I still have to repair the cut factory harness that goes to the amp before my new fully complete harness is installed. I will snap a few photos showing the complete harness spread out before I install for anyone looking at this in the future.

 

Thinking back to my install, I don't thing Dimmer is supported in our later-year trucks. Parking brake, on most models - I cannot speak for ATOTO - if you simply tie that to ground, it'll bypass the parking brake restrictions on the head unit. Yes, that would mean cutting ground to add yet another wire to it.

 

Lol, I must have skipped these previously when I installed in my Jeep. I have a Positap that should do the trick.....thanks again!

 

Two photos of assembled wire harness all laid out.

 

I skipped taking photos of my soldering hackery trying to repair the cut factory harness by the amp.
I initially tried to solder the small wire tails left on the white connector side , but there was too much tension due to the number of uncut wires so I soldered in short extensions.
I considered depinning all the wires in the large white connector, cutting all of the wires flush and then repin as there is plenty of wire available. This would of course eliminate all of the solder joints, shrink tube, ect , but was uncertain on the difficulty of this.