Alternator woes - how to get by for a week before fixing?

You're not going to find one. If you need an alternator quickly, you may have to go with one from one of the chain stores like Advance. Maybe Napa?

 

I’ll probably just go with the Toyota remanufactured vs the remanufacturing being done by any 3rd party out there. It’s not something I want to be caught again with my pants down if it dies prematurely.

 

Yes but can you even get one? I thought you need it quickly. I agree Toyota is the much better choice but I also suspect an aftermarket alternator would last several years. Are you not planning to get rid of it anymore?

 

Yes, I can get it locally.

 

Just realized it's a 70 amp one. Can't find a 100 or 130.

 

I was able to find the sequoia 150A, part number ending 1066 (they all have same prefix). If I had more cash I’d buy one proactively, it seems like it may be the next one to go. My 130A ending in 1065 has been out of stock for a couple months.

 

I read through this thread planning to post this right here ☝️☝️ Brushes are the high wear item in an alternator. This was a relatively easy item to replace and cost me under $25 at the Toyota parts counter.

Alternator Brush Holder Assembly

 

Do you remember the part number?
Did you replace the bearings?

 

For our 2006, with the 130A alternator, here is the exploded: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3806/engine/1903/

Looks like the brushes are p/n of 27370-0F060 if you have 100A or 130A and 27370-75060 if you're a poor sucker with the weak ass 80A.
Regulator is 27700-50040 but shows this part is for 80A only.
Rectifier is 27357-22200 and shows no associated amperage.

I'm pretty sure the rectifier is what burned up in my alternator when it sizzled sparked and flamed.

 

I only replaced the brushes, but I didn't have any noise or play in the pulley. Maybe I would do a full DIY reman if I was doing it again.

 

I sort of doubt it’s the brushes but I’ll check to see if I have any pseudo-sinewave voltage output across the battery to verify a diode has gone bad.

 

Search LKQonline. They have a 100 amp from a 2002 Tundra with 70k miles on it for 102 shipped.

I bought a low mileage one for my 2012 5.7 from them when it went out and saved a bunch.

 

Well, just pulled the trigger on a 100A remanufactured alternator from Toyota. According to the parts guy there’s only a hundred or so left across the country. They may make more though. I’ll be waiting till sometime next week to get mine (3-5 days).

On top of that the rental I got for traveling to the radar site is meaningless till next week. Maintenance took control of it yesterday for the entire week.

 

Well that was fast. The part is available to pick up. Must be the one pre-ordered for the appointment I had tentatively set for early next week. It probably already had my name on it.

 

Your local toyota tech is on the forum like .

 

Well, the good news is all the bolts move freely to take off the PS pump and old alternator. The tricky part is trying to figure out the best way to get that positive connector off the old alternator without breaking it.

Suggestions?

 

I prefer to come in from the wheel well. You need to pop off the apron in front of the strut, and potentially kick the wheel full lock, but ... it really opens things up.

 

That’s what you’re seeing when I took the picture through the apron hole. Already did that.

 

Dunno then, I just pinched and popped it off, IIRC. I swapped in/out my alternator twice. And will probably do it a 3rd if I end up getting the Sequoia alternator.

 

Well hopefully I can push the rubber boot back to access the pinch tabs. I need to use both hands to put enough pressure on the tabs.

To get the wire hose (loom) clamp off, did you just blindly use needle nose pliers to pinch and pop it out from the underside of the metal tab hole?



Edit: I guess I’ll try this method to see if it works.

https://youtu.be/gpZLU2ftDXo?feature=shared

 

Yours appears different from mine. I never had to do any of that. My harness bracket was held on with a 12mm or 14mm bolt. I popped off the bracket and left the harness tied to it.

 

Talk about brittle. That was just pushing it down when it broke off. Still took a good yank to pull the connector out after it broke.

 

I’ve had several connectors get brittle and break. Toyota does sell them so you can repin your wire into the new connector. The trick is finding the right part number. Some of them are stamped with the Toyota part number in tiny letters. @daveeasa I think has some alternate sources for Toyota connectors IIRC.

 

The alternator 3 way is a Sumitomo. Corsa has it. I think the 4 way too. Males are the harder ones to find. Terminals should be ok even if the plastic connector is cooked.

 

Might be this but I’d have to check my stash.

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=666

might be a -3 or -4 though, or some other TS090-3S variant. Photos should be clear though.

 

Dave - I always have trouble figuring which color (size) seals to get for the wires on our trucks. Any rule of thumb there?

 

@daveeasa

Another BestGen forum legend worthy of recognition, imho.

 

You wouldn’t need seals if terminals are ok but a micrometer on the wire will help.

sumi and yazaki make compatible 090II seals, one has 4 sizes and one 3. The second to biggest is 16-18 gauge and the biggest is 14 gauge. 20 would be best with middle (for the 3 size) or 2nd to smallest (for the 4 size) and 22 is the smallest seal. The small blue ones are fine with 20 gauge too. It’s not super critical to be perfect w seal size but it’s harder to stuff a too-small seal on.


@Jack McCarthy I had my stock alternator rebuilt and could send it to you but I’m out of town through Wednesday. But I did that preventatively for something exactly like this. Wish I had seen your post earlier last week.

 

And anyone else who wants their alternator rebuilt, the guy’s shop is almost walking distance from mine and he specializes in starters and alternators. For anyone too busy to DIY who doesn’t mind shipping.

 

That looks a lot like it Dave. Is there a tool to pull the old inserts out intact? Crimping those new inserts on sometimes requires a $300-$400 crimper (well molex is like that).