Air injection pump failure, only had it three weeks...

First post, wish it would have been a happy one. Bought a 2007 DC 5.7 long bed three weeks ago with only 96k and in pristine condition. Love it. Unfortunately it went into limp mode on me a couple of days ago and it's the air injection pump failure I've read about while lurking here. My shop recommends replacing both pumps due to the high chance of the second one failing as well and a few other connected bits that have been upgraded by Toyota since the truck came out - they're using only Toyota parts, the price is fair for the amount of work involved, and I agree with their plan.

My question is this: I realize that the recall for this exact issue on the '07 expired two years ago but would there be any worth in calling Toyota to try to get a reimbursement for repairs or are they likely to just shut me down?

 

Hate to hear and it NEVER hurts to try. Worst they'll say is no. My $0.02

 

I bet it was bad before you bought the truck. They just cleared the code and it took a certain amount of time for it to come back and go into limp mode. Sorry man.

 

what this dude said is my guess too. ^^

 

Yep. Sometimes it takes a long time for it to come back. I had a friend that cleared the code and it hasn't come back in almost a year.

 

I can see that, not what I'd like to think about the seller but... Would the code history have shown up in a scan? Had my mechanic do a pre-buy on it and everything came back clean from the scan.

 

Hmm. I’m not sure. I know when I have to go smog my vehicle, if it’s been previously cleared it shows up as not ready. Needs to be driven around for a certain amount of time before it’s ready. It’s very possible it just happened to fail on you at that time. It just seems weird and very coincidental.

 

Welcome to the club.
Sorry to hear about the pumps or valves going bad. A few of us experienced the same, some had luck getting the stealership to include them on the campaign and replaced both pumps, valves, and inlet tube at no cost. Others had zero luck and either paid them $2995 to replace it all....or installed a bypass kit and cleared the codes. Depending on your dealership outcome and budget, check into the bypass kits for an affordable option.

 

Check into one of these BT OBD2 scanners. Cheap, displays all codes including hidden, and the ability to clear codes on various models

 

I don't think it keeps a history. At least not where the code reader can see it.

Techstream might can get into some history but I'm uncertain.

 

I have one & Torque Pro, just was in a time crunch when this happened and had the choice to either limp it home to grab the OBD that I hadn't put in the truck yet (was miles away before I tried to get past 40mph) or drive a couple of miles to the shop. At that point I didn't realize it was in limp mode and was spitballing that it was a fuel system/ignition issue or some-such so I didn't want to get stranded. In retrospect I should have just gone home and read/cleared the code, ended up being hours late for work anyway... One question: I've seen the smaller form factor ODB BT scanners out there nowadays, I have one like you do and it always hit my leg in my car so I removed it. Any idea if the cheap smaller ones work as well as the larger ones?

Thanks! That makes me feel a bit better, the quote is $2700 for the full replace (both pumps, valves, controls) with Toyota parts and this shop has never gone over budget on me (usually ends up under their initial quote). I'd consider doing the bypass at home but they've already started work on it.

 

Lesson learned, thanks!

 

Bypass is definitely the way to go. The only thing those pumps do is warm up the cats and engine exhaust to help with emissions on cold starts. They really don't solve much of anything.

 

BTW: You guys are awesome! It's great to see "traditional" forums still thriving.

 

This article is interesting. I knew there were monitors associated with emissions testing on the ECM.

https://www.youcanic.com/article/tell-if-check-engine-light-was-erased

However, this will not help if it has been reset and driven to the point the self testing monitors run another test and pass.

 

I still don’t understand the bypass as much as I’d like to. I was under the impression that it depends on how your pumps fail. I.e., open or closed. The answer has never been clear to me. If the pumps fail in the open position can you still do the bypass? And also something about if the dealer has already done the update to the system, is it still possible to do the bypass?

Another question I have is if you have the pumps replaced is it a good idea to install the bypass afterwards to prevent it from happening again? Or even someone like me who has zero problems, should I install the bypass now so I never have a problem? It hurts my brain LOL

 

There are switching errors and pump errors. I believe most of the kits address the switching error.

It doesn't matter if they are stuck open. The kits have blocker plates and a module that tells the ECM everything is good....

https://rutechsolutions.com/products/aip57

Once you install the kit, clear the errors, the pump, shouldn't even try to cycle.

At least, this is how I understand it but I maybe wrong.

 

I wonder why kit includes 2007-2009 but does not include 2008? Oh yah 2008’s it does not ever happen to!
Peace. D

 

I'm curious where you are from?

I've read humid/wet environments have more affect on this on our Trucks that hot/dry environments. I live in North Texas, so I am away from the constant Gulf Coast moisture, and except for Mar-May, we don't get much rain.

104,000 on my 07, no issues...yet

 

Which code did it set?

 

not too difficult to change yourself imo. There is a good How To here.
Make sure you get the later upgraded pumps.


https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-aip-timing-valve-replacement-write-up.6282/

 

Also the upgraded intake tube with cowl to cover the snout. Or go balls out and relocate them to the firewall with the SDHQ kit

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/07...uilt-secondary-air-intake-pump-relocation-kit

 

If the ECU has been flashed to upgrade the pump cycles, you can't do the bypass mod. You can give the dealer your VIN and they can tell you if the re flash recall has been done.

 

Here's my best shot at halfassed answers:
If the pumps fail in the open position can you still do the bypass?
Yes: the bypass kit blocks the ports beneath the operating valves in bank 1 and 2. As far as I remember, those bypass kits literally 'bypass' the entire secondary air injection system.

if the dealer has already done the update to the system, is it still possible to do the bypass?
No: the ECU has been flashed and the older bypass kits will not coincide with the systems new parameters...sending it into limp mode again


if you have the pumps replaced is it a good idea to install the bypass afterwards to prevent it from happening again? Or even someone like me who has zero problems, should I install the bypass now so I never have a problem?
That's a tough one man. The stealership offered a 1 year parts and labor warranty. My plan is to ride that out until the warranty expires, then relocate the intake tubes to the firewall for peace of mind. Apparently, the updated intake trumpet tube keeps most of the water out, a lot less issues with that one

It hurts my brain LOL
Mine too. Ahaha

 

Hahaha thanks brother! I understand a little better. But my brain still hurts...

 

Down on the coast south of Houston...

 

I also have an 07 DC with 70,300 miles mine went out 2 weeks ago and I called Toyota America and they basically said sorry your 2 years out. So I paid out of pocket to get it fixed. I hope you have better luck than I did.