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DIY: AIP & Timing Valve Replacement Write-Up

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Nor7, Jul 30, 2016.

  1. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:25 PM
    #1
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    So a few requests to do a write up. 6 months ago I got P0419 code and P2442 so I replaced the pump and valve using the Chilton Manual Procedures. Got the CEL and codes for the other pump and valve so I replaced those last night. Enjoy, I would have taken more pictures but my hands quickly became filthy and I didn't want to foul up my fancy smartphone.

    Step 1: Find and locate connectors under hood (Below). Disconnect connectors and remove cable connectors. Both are located on passenger side towards the front of the truck. NOTE: I HIGHLY Recommend that you mark the connectors so you remember which one goes back where. If you're replacing both at the same time (which is a smart idea), Pump 1 connector connects closer to the grill and Pump 2 connector is practically underneath the main air intake tube/hose. Example, female and male connectors mark with an A for one and B for the other, then mark the same A and B on the new connectors. Once they feed back through into the engine compartment, you will have no idea which is which.

    IMG_9168.jpg
    (This picture needs to be rotated)

    IMG_9169.jpg
    (excuse my low tech pointing)

    Step 2: Remove front passenger wheel.

    Step 3: Pry back plastic cover in wheel fender.

    Step 4: You will see pump assembly in fender well (Below). Pull out rubber hoses, then find and remove qty 2 bolts and qty 2 nuts to free bracket assembly (10 mm).

    IMG_9170.jpg


    Step 5: Pull out assembly and loosen air inlet hose to appropriate pump (Below). Pumps are not bolted in, just pry out rubber 'legs?' from pump.

    IMG_9172.jpg

    IMG_9173.jpg

    Step 6: Install pump assembly by following steps in reverse order.

    Step 7: Crack a cold one, you're done.

    For the valve, Bank 1 is on the right side of the engine compartment and is bolted to the block with 3 bolts and is bolted to the air injection flange with 2 bolts. Just pops out then pop the new one in.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2016
    Sean266, ColoradoTJ, Wynnded and 3 others like this.
  2. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:29 PM
    #2
    MotoTundra

    MotoTundra Adrenaline Addict

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    Nice write-up! I'm sure this will come in handy for many!
     
  3. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:37 PM
    #3
    TheBeast

    TheBeast Mr Line-X

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    Thanks for the write up. Love the low tech pointing
     
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  4. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:46 PM
    #4
    RLHOK

    RLHOK New Member

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    will rent this space to pay for mods...: )
    What year is the truck?
    I noticed the "snorkels" are the upgraded model that are supposed to be the fix for the air pump problem. Did you install these when you replaced pump?
     
  5. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:47 PM
    #5
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    2011, Yes I replaced the snorkel with the upgraded one when I did the first pump.
     
  6. Jul 30, 2016 at 9:01 PM
    #6
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    You sir are the man!!!

    The arrows are amazing. Crazy you added so much texture and realism with those computer generated arrows
     
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  7. Jul 30, 2016 at 9:05 PM
    #7
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
  8. Jul 30, 2016 at 9:09 PM
    #8
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Hah, I should do a write up on the arrows. Lol they're just cardboard that I cut and wrapped in green tape around a screwdriver.
     
  9. Jul 30, 2016 at 9:10 PM
    #9
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    ColoradoTJ, Law323, driverdog and 3 others like this.
  10. Jul 31, 2016 at 4:26 AM
    #10
    driverdog

    driverdog New Member

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    Nice write up. How long did this take you?
     
  11. Jul 31, 2016 at 5:25 AM
    #11
    RowdyRon

    RowdyRon Not too old to play

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    @Nor7 Great job and write up! I'm 65 and love the low tech approach!
     
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  12. Jul 31, 2016 at 11:00 AM
    #12
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Calm your tits

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    Nice job and great write up.

    Some people have been getting quotes of 4000.00 to replace both pumps. I have been thinking about buying a set and sitting on them until I need them. Other option is to just wing it and deal with it when needed. Lastly, one of the vendors on this site is developing a bypass kit. The question I have is were the pumps pretty easy to get? Price?

    Thank you.
     
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  13. Jul 31, 2016 at 7:11 PM
    #13
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Started around 8pm and was done at about 10pm. Roughly two hours. Took me a little longer the first time.

    Write up took me about 15 minutes.
     
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  14. Jul 31, 2016 at 7:21 PM
    #14
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Don't buy them unless you need them. You have a 2012 so likely you've got a 50/50 chance you won't need them ever. The $4k quote is usually on the 4.7L engines as they require more disassembly than the 4.6L.

    I've got mixed feelings about the bypass kit. I've heard a few horror stories about the ECM flash upgrade from the dealership causing the bypass kits to throw an error code and not being able to pass emissions.

    I bought everything from Amazon and was pretty easy to get, the same parts are used in the Sequoia and a few other vehicles.

    Upgraded Air Inlet Tube: $30?
    Pump 1: $164
    Pump 2: $164 (they're identical)
    Valve 1: $275
    Valve 2: $180

    Case of Bud: $20

    Having enough $$ leftover to buy a gadget for the garage that I'll probably only use once in 10 years: Priceless
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
    RowdyRon, driverdog and ColoradoTJ like this.
  15. Jul 31, 2016 at 7:24 PM
    #15
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Calm your tits

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    Thanks for the information. This helps everyone else out.
     
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