5000 Miles maintenace and 5W-30

The plastic housing drain thingie and package of O-rings both look like the items that come with the filters I buy straight from the dealer near my office.

 

Doing my first oil change on my new to me Tundra and seems like whoever did the previous oil change SEVERELY overtightened the oil filter housing.
Is that thing supposed to be so tight? I feel like I'm gonna break it with too much force. I'm using the MotiveX kit.
What are you guys using for this? 3/8 ratchet? Breaker bar? Impact wrench?

 

Breaker bar

 

Yep breaker bar I've herd guys having someone hold their feet to get more leverage to break them free
They are O ring sealed and do not need to be tightened beyond bottoming out the threads. You can feel it when it bottoms out that's where I stop and never had a problem
There is also a torque value for it but I've never used a torque wrench for an oil change

 

I just used my DeWalt impact with the 3/8 attachment to remove the metal drain plug but used the MotiveX tool to remove the housing for the filter. That thing is plastic so I'd be careful, worst case scenario you can buy a new one for like 50 bucks.

 

Well, I ended up doing an improper oil change because I was too afraid of breaking the damn thing. I drained all of the oil from my truck including the oil from the filter and I couldn't get the filter housing off with the tools I took with me to my mom's house so now I think what I'm going to do is probably drain out all of my clean oil, use a breaker bar to get that housing off so I can actually change the filter. Plus stupid me, I forgot to bring my crush washer with me so I ended up reusing the same one Lots of lessons learned. First is to do my oil changes at home where I have all of my tools I would need.

I'm definitely going to create an oil change tool kit that I can just have readily available. I've seen mention of members doing that for each DIY project.

Dumb question... Does the oil filter housing have it's own reservoir of oil? If I were to remove the oil filter housing without draining the oil, would All 8.5 quarts of oil drain from there?

 

no. The oil pan is lower than the filter

ive reused the washer plenty of times with no ill effect. Just torque the plug properly

 

No res for filter you'll be fine just changing the filter

Here is a quote of mine from a different thread Having a oil changing kit is a good idea

 

Thank you! I'll get that filter changed out today at home with my proper tools. I'd still like to have a spare filter housing on standby should the worse case scenario happen and that thing breaks or cracks

 

Is someone elses car at home you can use to drive to a dealer? Maybe wait until thats avail

 

Wishing you the best on that housing removal. It’s pretty crazy how tight these things DO NOT need to be, yet service techs still torque them down to four ugga-duggas with their 1/2” drive impacts!

 

Unfortunately I don't have a 2nd vehicle right now so I gotta make sure I have everything available to me whenever I wrench on my truck.

 

I take it you are running 0w-40? Please elaborate on OCI, how long you’ve run that weight, etc. I just changed over last week to see how well it works, debating on 5w30 or 0w40. SC installed at just shy of 200k miles, ALL of which were run on 0w20 (I’m not as firmly rooted in that camp as I used to be, but would still argue OCI > weight on importance scale for a stock motor). Comparatively, Mobil 1 0w40 appears to have a much more robust additive package than its 0w20 or 0w30 counterparts.

 

if you are after a decent add pack (moly), try valvoline 5w-30 ext prot/hi miles it's what I'm using now.

and it's not expensive & it's at walmart.

for the record - 5k oci's.

 

Most dealerships around here utilize young guys with little experience making less than McDonald's workers do the oil changes and light service tickets...

 

Same for us in Western Oregon. I’m amazed that we don’t from hear more people (not Tundras) that have had the wrong oil pan drained.

No kidding, this happened to a friend’s mom several years ago. Can’t remember exactly what the car was. Went in for an oil change. Kid drained the transmission, replaced the oil filter, and then poured new oil in the engine. Sent her down the road.
Didn’t work very long with almost no ATF and a double shot of 10w-30.

 

I cringe at stories like this.

I also cringe at the thought that grown ass men don't consider doing their own regular maint.

the excuse that it is too difficult is a window into the mind of this new generation.

see...they can use a super complex electronic device>> Iphone, but you can't change oil? GTFOH.

 

This grown ass man despises doing oil changes and rotating my own tires and getting nasty draining fluids and having to dispose of them. Got better things to do with my life. Only reason I’m doing my own oil these days is because it’s gotten to a $110/vehicle and that’s just dumb.

 

agreed. I despise it too. and, Lord knows, I'd rather be honing my wakesurfing skills....

but, I don't think it's one of those things that need to be delegated to knuckleheads.

 

Well my luck may change after I post this but 20yrs and counting and so far no issues.

 

With the proper tools, it’s a $40 DIY job that I can do faster at home than going to any shop. And I rarely spill a drop. I use 4-5 paper towels and that includes wiping out the pan afterwards.

 

Jeez I don't know but that's pure stupid to buy it for that much. I did run across a guy selling some individual quarts (enough for the Tundra) and asking over $100 for the lot. When I told him they sell them cheaper in the gallon jugs it was like I told him we landed on the moon.

 

Do a Google search on what the numbers mean in multi-grade oils.
Click on any results that aren't oil threads in forums/chat boards.

 

From a chart, yes, they are both 20 weight oils. But a 5w20 often leans on the thicker side of that 20 while most 0w20s lean on the thinner side. Not a huge difference but I’ve seen several VOI’s showing as much. For example, M1 0w40 is just barely in to the 40 weight category from a viscosity standpoint. It often shears down to a heavy 30 weight during the course of a natural OCI (not extended or abusive or fuel washed, etc).

 

Oil change techs are the fry cooks of the auto maintenance world. I had one guy leave a wrench under the hood when I was in college and had no tools or space to do my own maintenance. I’m really glad that didn’t fall into the fan while I was driving.

Also had a guy mess up the outer O-ring on the cartridge filter on my 4Runner. He pulled the O-ring past the threads, effectively making it a gasket between the filter housing and the engine block (and yes, he used all the torque when reinstalling the filter housing). It sprung a rather large leak three weeks later when we got our first cold snap that Fall. If one of my kids hadn’t left their bike in the driveway, I wouldn’t have walked around the front of the 4Runner where I could see the puddle of oil underneath.

I haven’t allowed anyone to do one bit of maintenance on any of my vehicles since then.

 

Well, so I called for an appointment and the Toyota service tech told me that they will put in whatever is in the maintenance manual and nothing else, so the 5W-30 is no go at this dealership. Is never easy and last thing I wanna do is void my warranty for the next 10 years.

 

0w-20 is fine. no worries with it.

more important:

keep oil in it.
change @ 5k

 

Yeah I am pretty religious about oil change and tire rotation every 5K

 

Changed out the oil last weekend and found this forum very helpful in my decision to go with the 5w-30 from Costco. About 7 quart is all it needs then just check. The levels.