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4" Rough Country Lift w/ Build

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Rebel Tundra Man, Sep 25, 2019.

  1. Dec 2, 2019 at 8:06 AM
    #31
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2019
    Member:
    #34657
    Messages:
    46
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black Limited
    4" RCX Lift, 20x10 Fuel Coupler's, 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler's
    also got big things coming this afternoon, I will try to get pics posted as soon as possible. I had a week off from work lastweek so it got a little dangerous me and dad being in the garage with my truck haha.
     
  2. Dec 2, 2019 at 8:12 AM
    #32
    TundraDude18

    TundraDude18 I calculate beer temperature, not mpg.

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
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    #24842
    Messages:
    528
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    'Merica
    Vehicle:
    '18 Quicksand Limited CM
    Great job: looks great!:thumbsup:
     
    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 2, 2019 at 8:45 AM
    #33
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2019
    Member:
    #34657
    Messages:
    46
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black Limited
    4" RCX Lift, 20x10 Fuel Coupler's, 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler's
    I did solve my crappy JBL system sound this past week while I was off work too, I replaced all the door speakers with my usual Kicker DS series speakers, $75 for the front 6x9's and $65 for the rear 6.5" ones from local Walmart. The sound is 1000 times better than before. the front speakers were an easy change. The speaker holders are easily removable with screws and then the speakers unplug and remove as well. I unsoldered the factory speaker plug and re-soldered it to the new speakers (kicker DS 6x9) and re-installed it the the door frame, it did require a spacer to push it off of the window track, I will have pictures soon for this. The rear was a little more difficult as the speakers were made to the plastic holder. I'm sure these things can be bought. but I did reuse my factory stuff as the speakers were useless anyways. Here is the pics of how I modified the rear speaker holders to hold the new Kicker DS 6.5" speakers.

    D1C8299B-B700-488A-A89F-8828DBDD9F04.jpg

    I had to trim the Door Grill down to allow clearance because of speaker depth issues.

    Speaker B4 Trim.jpg
    After Trim.jpg

    The speaker holder unscrews from the door. next pop the magnet loose off the back old factory speaker and use a dremel or oscillating tool to cut the supports around the edge holding the speaker into the factory holder. These supports will no longer be needed with the new speaker. I left the foam around the outside of the speaker to maybe reduce vibrations and in the last picture I hot-glued some weather stripping foam around the outside to cushion the speaker against the door panel grille as well.

    Speaker Holder.jpg

    I did reuse the factory wire plug, I cut the wires loose off the factory speaker and soldered the new speaker wires into the holes where the old ones were soldered as you can see above. I don't now if I got the polarity right on them or not, I compared the plugs to the front of the truck as they were labeled black and red.

    Speaker in Hole.jpg
    Speaker Mounted.jpg

    I have been running the sound system with the bass turned all the way down because the crappy JBL stuff couldn't handle the sound of it all. Once all the speakers were installed I was able to turn the bass, mids, and highs up to the levels I preferred and every song sounded full like it should have to begin with. not the complete fix to this problem but I can live with the sound it produces now compared to what it did have. I will probably still add some actual subwoofers to the system at some point though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM
  4. Dec 2, 2019 at 7:18 PM
    #34
    Spoolnms

    Spoolnms New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2019
    Member:
    #26659
    Messages:
    23
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ryan
    Vehicle:
    2014 Tundra
    7" lift, 37x13.50r18, catback dual exhaust, intake, etc.
    Looking good. Ive been looking into a speaker upgrade as im happy with the factory unit.
     
    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] likes this.
  5. Dec 3, 2019 at 9:07 PM
    #35
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2019
    Member:
    #34657
    Messages:
    46
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black Limited
    4" RCX Lift, 20x10 Fuel Coupler's, 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler's
    Been waiting to do this since I bought the truck just had to wait for everything to come together. But y’all let me know what ya think!

    here’s before
    10858E05-08C8-4F99-821F-274A04016B87.jpg

    Here’s the finished headlights with LED DRL

    9802243B-8A3D-4BA2-9FC2-5DA46224FCAD.jpg

    and here’s the finished product of all the color match stuff.

    C0F427E1-199B-4872-9458-E9F94FBD875A.jpg
     
    TundraDude18 and Ely010606 like this.
  6. Dec 5, 2019 at 7:51 AM
    #36
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2019
    Member:
    #34657
    Messages:
    46
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black Limited
    4" RCX Lift, 20x10 Fuel Coupler's, 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler's
    I did a few more things lastnight while I had the dash tore off for other unknown reasons... (pics to come)... :cool:

    When I installed the new wheels and tires after the lift, I eliminated the TPMS sensors from the wheels. This caused the light on the dash to stay on, after searching on this topic I found this thread here.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/disable-tpms.1056/

    The TPMS Module is located behind the glove box on the passenger side of the truck, I did not snap a pic of it while I had it apart, but it is the little gray box that sets up vertical, right beside the blower fan box. It does say "Tire Pressure Monitor" on the side of it as well. As stated in the thread there is a yellow and light green wire that are side by side. I cut the green wire close to the plug, I did leave a little tail coming from the plug incase I ever need to revert it back as well. There will no longer be a green wire going into the plug, instead it is to be connected to the yellow wire next door to it this sends either a voltage or an ohm reading back to the computer/dash board which tells the light to turn off, I was unclear which one of these occurs because I did not have the battery connected to the truck. I used a diode in between the two wires as some stated they did since I just happened to have some on hand. The diode is set where the signal can only flow FROM the yellow wire TO the green wire. NOTE: DO NOT CUT THE YELLOW WIRE!!! On the yellow wire back from the plug about 2" I stripped a small bare spot just big enough to wrap the other end of the diode around the yellow wire. I did solder all my connections and tape over everything, and bundle the wires back together, but there are other options that can be used to connect these two wires together without having to cut the yellow wire.



    The other thing I did lastnight was disable the factor amber DRL since I added the LED DRL that are in the platinum headlights I did not need or want both of the running together. as one was white and the other was amber. to complete this I used this thread:

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-with-disabling-the-orange-drl-on-2016-sr5.16347/

    The module was kinda tricky to find but it is located behind the switch panel to the left hand side of the steering wheel. It is a little black box that is also setting up vertical to the far left in the cavity closest to the driver side door. I did not snap a picture of this one either. It has one plug going into it, IIRC it says something about Daytime Running Lights on the side of it but it cannot be seen from the mounting location. Anyhow, there are is a SMALL gray wire you cut on the first row of wires in the plug, it is in the middle of a white w/ black stripe wire, and a light green wire. NOTE: THERE IS ALSO A LARGE GRAY WIRE IN THIS PLUG. THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU CUT!!!!!

    Both of these mods worked great once I hooked the battery back up and cranked the truck, no more tire sensor light on the dash, and no more amber DRL's
     
  7. Dec 5, 2019 at 1:06 PM
    #37
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2019
    Member:
    #34657
    Messages:
    46
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black Limited
    4" RCX Lift, 20x10 Fuel Coupler's, 35x12.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler's
    I also did some trim work lastnight. I can’t stand having chrome everywhere. Wish they gave an option to not have chrome all over everything but it gives us tinkerers something to do! Haha EA39649A-5AF1-4838-BFFB-4530E0B52FD5.jpg
    E041F969-7E54-4F25-B806-4BC59E202370.jpg
     
  8. Dec 5, 2019 at 1:10 PM
    #38
    TXRailRoads73

    TXRailRoads73 TEXAS TÜNDRA CRÜE ROCKIN' N ROLLIN ALL NIGHT LONG

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
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    #3487
    Messages:
    41,754
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    First Name:
    Adam
    The Lone Star State, RGV, TEXAS
    Vehicle:
    2014 CM TSS 4WD SR5 5.7 MGM
    RC 6" lift / 35x12.50R20 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx/ 20x9 +20 Fuel wheels "Mavericks" (Came with) / S&B CAI/ 2-10" Rockford Fosgates R2/ Massive Audio Nano N2 amp (Came with)/ KatSkins seat covers (Came with)/ Weathertechs window vent visors and floor mats/ 1A-AUTO.com aftermarket tow mirrors/ Undercover tonneau bed cover/ Viper alarm 3305V/ Flowmaster Super 40 Dual in-out/ 40" led light bar/ TRD Pro grille/Rough Country 30" LED light bar/TRD rear sway bar/ Ranch Hand legend grille gaurd/ Nfab nurf bars/ 2019 PRO headlights

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