3rd Gen Tuner

So, a Pedal Commander does the same thing as the Drive Modes already on the truck, just better and more fine tuned?

 

wait until you add a pedal commander or pedal monster. gets rid of the lag and lets you get into the power on demand.

 

no, the oem drive modes affect shift points as well. PC only affects throttle response and at a higher degree than the oem modes.

 

So the 5mph at 70 puts it off by about 7%. Looking at a tire size calculator (which says the circumference/diameter about 5% larger), it should be about spot-on stock, yes?

I'm considering doing 275/60/20 or 275/65/20 when my '22 Limited arrives and though speedo accuracy isn't a high priority, it's something to consider. I'm already considering the JB4 for the extra power, so speedo adjustment would be another plus.

 

Speedo accuracy can affect the duration of your warranty

 

Any dragy results with 0-60 or 40-90? Dyno info with a JB4's added boost?

 

From their website

Here’s more information from another website. https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=698973#post698973

 

Duration of the warranty? If you’re referring to the mileage, then yes the odometer is off. The larger tires actually move the odometer slower because they cover a longer distance per rotation.

 

Yup, I mean duration as in it can either cause the mileage clause of your warranty to expire either sooner or later, if time doesn't get you first.

We had a 2008 Subaru that read about 7-8% too fast. That meant that the warranty expired about 3 months early in our usage case. Oh, and the head gasket failed not long after the warranty expired.

We don't buy Subarus any more!

 

That should have been a warranty, I think the federal limit for OE is 5% max.

 

I prolly got about 30 more hp and 35 tq because of the not 1 but 2 TRD air filters I installed......... lol


I'm kidding. But those numbers are not too shabby for a 15min install

 

I guess I spoke too soon. It's more like 3.5 mph at 70 mph. It's definitely around 5% because I've tracked it with a GPS speedo app (assuming the app is accurate). However, like I said, the speedo being off by 5% isn't a huge deal. I rarely push it past 10 mph over the speed limit so now I just set my cruise to 75 isn't of 80 mph now. haha.

My bigger concern is just the long term accuracy of the odometer. It's something I'll have to account for with the amount of driving I do. 5% doesn't sound like a lot but I've already got close to 8,000 miles on my truck. I'm on pace to hit nearly 30,000 miles in my first year. So by the end of the year, I'll have ~1,500 more miles on the truck than will read on the odo. Every maintenance interval, I'll have to start scheduling early by about 250 miles to make sure I stay within spec.

I'm not really complaining about this. Just pointing it out. To be honest, this is the first time I've purchased a vehicle before there was significant aftermarket support. On the 2 previous vehicles I've owned where I've done a lift & tires, I would've already done the mechanical or electronic recalibration of the speedo/odo by now. Just patiently waiting for Hypertech to release their product so I can dismantle my dash and put it in line. haha

 

I would never do this or recommend it to anyone.

Their lowest boost is 3.5 psi higher over stock. Stock boost is 20psi already (see below), which is really high for a stock truck. I think Ford Raptor Ecoboost has 18 psi stock.

This company advertises boost of 6.5 above stock, which will put the value at 26.5 psi at least. That is nuts! Even 23.5psi will be pushing reliability, unless this engine proves to be a sibling to the 2JZ, which I doubt.


This is my recent acceleration in sport mode. Absolute boost is 34psi with 14psi barometric pressure. Final boost from turbos is at least 20psi.

 

As a follow up to the above post. I have about 3k miles on the truck now, and have 34.1 (1.5 inch larger than stock) inch really heavy tires on it.

Power is the strength of this truck. In Eco and Normal it feels sluggish, but in sport mode, the truck is a peach. No perceptible turbo lag whatsoever, really! It pulls hard and feels light on its feet, even with the heavy tires.

I had a Ram ecodiesel with a tune and p-rated tires. It felt at least 200hp down compared to the tundra around town.

so please… you do not need a tune on this truck. Spend the money on other accessories

 

What are you using to measure boost? Looks like an app correct?

 

I wonder what max boost is for these turbos? I agree in a way. If you have a motor that’s built 1,000hp and you’re pushing the max, that’s a bomb waiting to happen. If you want to run 1,000hp build it for 1,500/2,000 (I know from experience lol) and have fun. For longevity I wouldn’t want to daily drive near max psi, I need cushion

 

Isn't that boost reading also including ambient pressure? I haven't see anything above 16psi

 

I’m at sea level here, “ambient pressure” is about 14psi. 34-14 is 20psi of turbo boost

 

Obd2 reader.

 

Idk what to tell you, im also at sea level...I don't see 20psi in my data logs at all... not even spikes. I'm running one of their higher boost tunes and I'm not getting those numbers from their data logs. I'll try hooking up my torque app and will compare numbers because something isn't making sense here

 

It’s amazing. Sport + +4 is almost to much lol

 

Wow...I kept it on city-2 or 0. Lol

 

Yea I backed it off. To city +1

 

Is Boost Sensor A the manifold sensor or a sensor prior to the throttle body? The Ecoboosts have a TIP sensor just before the throttle and a MAP sensor on the manifold. Its not weird to see significantly higher boost at the tip sensor.

I’d be kind surprised if they were really hitting 20 psi.

You wont see the actual boost the JB4 is making since its spoofing it. As far as the PCM is concerned, your only at stock boost levels.

 

Just got confirmation from BMS that Boost and Boost 2 are actual psi readings and ECU Psi is what the truck thinks it's making. Ive been reporting "Boost" figures from the JB4. So having cleared that up, my statement still stands. I am not seeing anything close to or over 20psi.

 

Do we know what Boost Pressure Sensor A is from the post above? I assume there must be a Sensor B as well.

Ford has the TIP sensor(Throttle Inlet Pressure) and the MAP sensor(Manifold Absolute Pressure). They look identical and both report absolute pressure. One reads the pressure just before the throttle plate and the other is after the throttle plate. The tuning in the Ecoboost actually demands a specific pressure delta across the throttle pretty much all the time. During throttle tip-in, there is usually a pretty decent boost spike as the turbos spool up super quick. To compensate for that the PCM closes the throttle plate to limit flow and boost into the manifold, this results in a decent sized pressure delta between MAP and TIP and im sure it could get up into that 20 psi range.

Just thinking out loud that Boost Sensor A might be the Toyota version of the TIP.

 

Can you take a look at the PID code for "Boost Pressure Sensor A?" Since you're using a 3rd party app, we might not be comparing apples to apples here.

What app are you using?

 

20psi is right at the turbo, it's about 2 psi lower at the intake manifold sensor.

 

That I would believe. 18 psi to make 480 ft-lbs. I think my 2014 Ecoboost hits 14-15 to make 420 ft-lbs but it tapers off pretty quickly down to like 10 by 5500 rpm.

20 psi isnt bad for the turbos. These are the compressor maps for the Stock 11-12 Ecoboost turbos and then Garrett Powermax upgrades. 20 psi is only 2.36:1 pressure ratio. The turbos can hit that no problem. Im sure the Tundra is similar.

 

A/B might be bank 1 and bank 2?