2nd gen cluster

Hey bud, can you please take some pics of customizing the 93xxx circuit board. If you can do a video even better but even pics is good enough. Also good luck.

Btw you got the correct programs to get it uploaded right?

Oh and forgot to mention, make sure you take pics of the before and after of the 93xxx hex file from the chip. We need to see where and how the mileage is encoded on the chip. And how to change it.


Btw the same process can be used to clear the immobilizer chips. This was a big issue for the 98-2003 Toyota/Lexus but newer ones look to be programmed via Techstream.

 

Shoot! I’ve already assembled the programmer and soldered on the pins and wires and now reading your message.
The only drawback I see is the cost for the Tachosoft Mileage calculator at 199 euro.

I’ll try to read my chip from the orange cluster once my optitron arrives and installed.

Stay tuned!

 

So you know you can get a "free" version of Technosoft right? Search is your friend buddy.

Lmgtfy

 

For anyone thinking about switching their orange LED cluster to a different color, check out these LED's from Amazon. It is way cheaper than paying $1.35 per LED. You can buy a pack of 100 blue LED's for $5.66. That's a no brainer!
Use these keywords when searching for them: Surface mount PLCC 3.5mm x 2.8mm.

$7 CHANZON 100 pcs 3528 (1210) Blue SMD LED Diode Lights Chips (Surface Mount PLCC 3.5mm x 2.8mm DC 3V 20mA) Super Bright Lighting Bulb Lamps Electronics Components Light Emitting Diodes

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mmx2-8mm-Intensity-Lighting-Electronics-Components/dp/B01CUG9YM6?crid=1NEFC3T93QY5U&keywords=PLCC-2+white&qid=1646611275&s=industrial&sprefix=plcc-2+whit%2Cindustrial%2C81&sr=1-7&th=1

I would also recommend using a hot air gun instead of a solder gun to make the process a whole lot easier. There are several brands out there but this is just one to give you an idea of what I am referring to.

$30 TXINLEI 8858 110V Hot Air Solder Blower SMT Rework Station Optional Portable Heat Gun 480W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4RHZ21/?coliid=IQFYBYGYWXOON&colid=31AOHKA3MBQVD&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I may take the plunge and replace my LED's from my original cluster along with attempting to program the chip once I get my Optitron back.

 

So, reading between the lines here on several forum postings, it seems like the odo readings are stored in the same place on the chip for most (all?) Toyota vehicles that use this setup, so I'd be curious when you get around to it whether or not the placement is the same, and then if calculating the mileage is the same. I've seen these two graphics in several places to decode...not sure if you 'need' a separate program at all (though it's certainly helpful!):




And honestly, I think it would be pretty straightforward to build an Excel calc similar to what this guy here did:

 

And because I'm a nerd, I just threw together a quick one that should work for most people. I don't have any logic built in yet to account for the actual mileage digits (i.e. less than 100k will probably not work)...but it'll work for anything > 100,000 right now. Included a check to input what you're seeing and to check if it aligns to the current vehicle reading as well (I used the info from the above screenshots).

 

Be careful with the air gun as the SMD bodies heat up quickly. I've had a hard time getting the air gun to work and prefer a chisel tip.

 

Thanks for the info! Can you attach the Excel file too?

 

Cluster is back and installed! Shoutout to Odometer solutions for reprogramming it correctly!

I can drive my truck again! Haha
https://ebay.com/usr/odometersolutions

 

I spoke a little too soon! The distance to empty is not correct and it counts down about twice as fast as the mileage.
I get 300 miles to a full tank and this says I can get 443 miles to the tank.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next?

 

Yea go drive it. Rumors are it take a full tank or so for the cluster to stabilize on an accurate MPG number. The fact it’s displaying a number at all says it’s getting the right signal. The Avg Mpg data is stored in the cluster. When it looses power (you unplug the cluster from the harness) it forgets all this information and has to relearn it. This includes relearning an accurate range to empty

In my experiments so far it seems Toyota maybe slightly under reporting on the Avg Mpg value. I have just started logging gas fill up and miles driven to do the hand calculations to really see what my Avg Mpg is compared to what Toyota says

 

I'll keep track of the mileage by the Trip A counter. Let's hope it'll learn and give me an accurate reading in due time.

My truck is a 2012 and the cluster came from a 2011, not sure if that could be the issue.
Here is my VIN: 5tfey5f12cx119269
Donor VIN: 5TFFY5F19BX111818

The engines both looked the same so I figured it would work!

 

Check the vins on toyodiy.com . Your truck should have the 26.4 gallon tank. That is part number 77001-0C060. See what it says for the donor. It might have had the 30+ gallon tank. If that is the case it will probably always read inaccurately. But I am not an expert. This was posted earlier in the thread.

 

Both tanks have the same part number of 77001-0C060.
I’m thinking it’s when they changed the resistance on the 2012 / 2013 models vs 2007-2011 models by 100 ohms, stated in a post in the 5th page of this thread.
I’m wondering if anyone installed a 100ohn resistor to see if it will remedy this?

 

As long as you followed this great chart posted earlier then it should have worked fine. Especially since you verified tank size and weather flex fuel or non flex fuel.

 

I’m thinking this could be the cause

 

I pulled apart my old cluster, removed the S93A66 eeprom chip, and was able to pull the data off of it. AsProgrammer didn't read the chip but I was able to read it in NeoProgrammer, which is the updated version of the software. My chip is an S93A66 but it was able to detect and read it as an M93S66 chip.

I haven't attempted to change the mileage quite yet because I would hate to corrupt the chip and would have no use for my old cluster if I were to need it someday. I ordered LED's to change the color scheme and it seems pretty straight forward. All of the LED's on the board have a letter beside them to identify what color they are originally.

 

If you check the interwebs. Speedcar99 or whatever he is called already done this mileage excel calculator as well. So just do a search.

 

That's where I got the ideas from, I just never bothered to look for the actual Excel file and made it myself (literally took about 5 mins).

For the rest of the discussion:

@Tundra3k - the cluster part number changed from 2011-12, so I can't say with 100% certainty it will work without issue, but @Shanet421 put a 2011 cluster into his 2013, so my guess is your "issue" is as was stated above and due to the computer resetting and the miles to empty calculations needing some time to reset themselves. I'm 99% certain after a tank or two things will normalize as it learns and you'll be on your way.

Yep, just drive it! The fact the mileage is going down quick says to me the computer is making the adjustments and corrections on the fly from a rather optimistic starting points to a more realistic end point. If they weren't dropping faster than "normal"...well, then maybe we've found the key to the 20mpg Tundra (hint: it's all in the cluster!).

I'll try uploading the file right now here, although I have no clue if it'll take Excel files?? ...well...look at that, XLSX is a file type is accepts, so here you go! Let me know if your calcs are different...

 

I guess a little help may be in order.

To get the calculations, in cell C5 you can enter in what you want to change the mileage to, and the output in cell L2.

If you want to check what you read on the cluster, you can enter the results in the Hex fields in B9-J9 to validate it, and the value in C12 should reflect your truck's current mileage.

That's all, of course, assuming I did the math and lookups correctly, it was kind of thrown together.

 

Looking to get this for my truck. I thought i understood which one I needed but I have the 4.6L motor and don’t see any info on that, does that matter or can I get one from the 5.7L?

also does 2wd vs 4wd matter for the 2011+ clusters?

 

What's your VIN? Did they offer the Limited with the smaller engine sizes? I'll look around on various combos and could likely figure it the likelihood of what should work.

 

Pm sent with vin

not sure if they offered limited in 4.6L. The few ppl have sent me have all been 5.7L engines

 

I'll keep researching, but so far I've only found one example of a Limited in the <5.7 engine size: 5TBRT58137S451609

The cluster it comes with is the 83800-0C480

That's a 2007 2WD 4.7L setup. The same year 2WD 5.7L engine comes with a different cluster: 83800-0CA40 (this cluster is shared with the 2008 5.7L 2WD/4WD). I did also find examples of both the 2WD/4WD 5.7L setups in 2007 with different AND the same clusters (5TBEV58147S456987 = 2WD; 5TFBV58147X016062 = 4WD; both have 83800-0C570)...which leads me to believe the 0C570 and 0CA40 are interchangeable, since the 0CA40 cluster was used on both the 2WD/4WD 5.7L in 2008.

@SouthWestGA put the cluster from the 4.7 into his 5.7 - I think he's got several posts in here on the results. If it worked, I don't see any reason why the reverse wouldn't work as well. My *guess* is that there may be minor differences in the Tach setup, assuming the different sized engines could redline at different RPMs, but I'd also guess that the only thing that would impact is the visuals of where the Tach looks like it redlines on the two motors...but that's all conjecture. I would guess the RPMs are accurate, but since the numbers/colors are basically printed on the tach, it might "look" slightly odd (not that it would actually be an issue).

 

Thanks for looking into this for me. Now I'm nervous about trying to swap to the optitron cluster and thinking maybe just getting the LEDs swapped on my current cluster to be the easier/cheaper/safer route

 

It's all a...wait for it...bit of a cluster

In all honesty, the clusters are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things ($125ish on average) and a simple swap from what I've seen, plus you should be able to flip it easily if it doesn't work for some reason. Soldering all the tiny LEDs on the board, IMO, is a much more involved and potentially dangerous route to take, based on your soldering skill level and/or the skill level of whoever is doing it. The cluster swap is PnP. You'd also be a case study for me based on the results. I've been tracking everyone who's been doing the swap and their results...it's really the only way to answer a lot of questions since all I have is essentially VINs and part numbers...and a lot of assumptions and inferences. Proof is in the pudding!

 

I’m one of the lucky ones…30 min swap. Simple plug and play and lost zero function…gained a few with the Optitron.

 

So... Now what the heck do I do with this?

 

Can you use it to program forum members clusters?! Lol

 

For a small fee anything is possible