2022 Tundra vs 2022 F-150 opinion?

Odd that the picture used for that brochure shows the Ford trim config with the lowest payload of 1780# with the slide in installed. No way to stay within the numbers with that setup.

 

Because you still have to drive the truck the other 364 days of the year you are not camping

 

Don't buy a slide-in camper then. Sleep in a ground tent one day a year.

 

Late to the party but you’re f150 has been fine until you brought it for a recall or TSB?

 

I didn’t say it made sense.

 

Correct. Had a handful of unintended tailgate openings prompting me to get the recall. This seems to have immediately triggered the headlight issue. My read is the module that runs all accessory functions has to be removed reinstalled and reprogrammed in that process and something went wrong there

 

Damn that’s absurd. The finicky electronics is why I was nervous to reinstall the ambient lighting. Was hoping I didn’t mess something up

 

I think if you have to touch this "Body control module" things can get dicey if the new software isn't perfect or you miss a
Little corrosion anywhere on its
Terminals when you pull wires and fuses. I wouldn't be scared of anything that does not require that. But if it requires messing with the BCM in the future I may ignore recalls that involve it if I am not experiencing problems.

 

This sounds simple but is a huge deal. It's called a gateway module- it takes feeds from everything with mixed protocols controlling options like heated seats, infotainment, mirrors and essentially all options. Additionally, it has to communicate with the APIM and Telematics modules. If there is a power loss, it has to reboot, you can be F'd if it doesn't sync with the other modules. One of the first things the techs do if there is a module problem is to replace the battery and check voltage drops across some of the harness points. These problems are a mess for the dealer as they always run over on book time and the trained techs are hard to find as well as retain. My truck that Ford is buying back has had all the modules replaced, reprogramming and it's still buggy as hell. I just got in it and the mirrors wouldn't fold back out until I got out of the truck, locked it, unlocked it and restarted it. Then my central stack screen took about 2 minutes to come back on. I'm from a networking background and understand what's going on. After learning way too much about how Ford is doing this I think the system is too complicated and has shit SW. Pro tip, don't let you battery go dead in a current F150.

 

All these new trucks should be set up like boats.
One battery for the motor. One battery for the trolling motor. One Battery for Accessories, One battery for ..., etc....
But that will kill payload - yeah yeah.
I get the shivers just reading the above. Damn.
All these new trucks rely so much on electronics and the battery drain is huge.
Everyone should go out to their truck and make sure the connections to the battery are corrosion free and tight, especially before long trips, vacation.
Keep a $10 multimeter in your truck. Check every now and then to make sure its over 12.6 after being parked for a few days and holding charge.

 

and speaking of payload - thought this was interesting so sharing

This $104,000 (In Canada) Ram Limited Elite has 1030 lbs of payload.
That is less than our 4Runner @ 1165 lbs.
Toyota Tundra Capstone @ 1290 lbs is about the same as my 2018 Tundra.
F150 Limited Powerboost 1283 lbs
GMC Denali Ultimate 1495

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKNIfXFbH-0

 

Yep. None of the trucks are passive from a power consumption standpoint even if they're locked in the garage. Alarms have had a small draw for a long time but now, with the advent of apps that talk to the vehicle, you have a telematics and modem/cel functionality that's active all the time. Mercedes has used two batteries and many of their cars for sometime. In an SL550 for example, there is a huge AGM battery in the truck the runs the electronics, seats, top and so on. Under the hood is a start battery. Basics- Don't let a battery die. Replace them before you need to. Be extremely careful with connectors. The smallest about of corrosion or a damaged pin will cause nightmares on a low current connection and be almost impossible to diagnose. Lastly, and it will sound like an overreaction but it's not a bad idea to put a tender on the vehicle if you're going to be away from it for a long time.

 

It looks like that wide body goes about 300lbs so you're down to 700lbs?

 

Yeah he says in the video his dad and him are about 600 lbs - 8^0 And the baby seats are 40lbs each.

 

This is extremely accurate except for us the gender roles were reversed. My wife wanted the RTT and I got the set it up and haul it around. She loved it though and it got her camping. I did at least have a winch in my garage to pull it off anytime I was not using it for a couple weeks.

 

Yeah. Slide ins are basically the same but for old white retirees

 

Exactly why we were never interested in a truck camper or motorhome.

 

10 days down now. Headlight switch swap did not fix it and 2 days in the shop after that tailed to remedy it only got me more shoulder shrugs. As of yesterday Ford customer Service is opening a case and calling the dealer Monday and the GM got a very diplomatic but pointed email from me with a detailed timeline noting that the service advisor told me in two different conversations they believe the recall work caused it. Have Also spoken to two other F150 owners online who encountered the same scenario after the same recall. Both trucks down for over a month before solutions were found that I cannot get either user to drill down on for me with certainty. One guy said his dealer never gave him clarity on the fix. Another user said it was found to be one thing that fixed his, but then someone else in the thread said he told them in a pm something else had to be replaced after that.

Again, very frustrating that a vehicle known for electrical gremlins behaved relatively well for over a year and then went fubar like this over factory authorized recall work. Thankfully my wife and mother in law stepped in to console me with a "shouldn't have bought American" speech this weekend.

 

sorry your having trouble man, no matter what you own it sucks .

Hopefully they get it going again for you. That’s what happened on my test drive fiasco , the electronics went crazy and even impacted the power train

do you at least have a rental and in warranty?

got to love the timely advice when shit is broken , lol

 

Thanks

In warranty. I am in their fleet Escape but I am mentioning summer vacation road trip season approaching a lot in these conversations to feel them out on the potential to maybe get me into something larger on the used lot if this drags on. It's good for night and weekend errands but will be difficult for hitting up the beach rental in June. Hoping it doesn't come to that and escalating on both ends helps. I don't think there was was enough communication between the dealer and Ford which I think should be heavy from day 1 if recall work causes the problem. Also they seem to be putting in a few hours a day between other customer pay jobs. Maybe not treating it as urgent as they could because I have a loaner.

They open at 730 and close at 6. My truck doesn't wake up and start updating location on the app until a bit after 11 when the battery is connected. And they typically give up in the afternoon, 4-430 ish, maybe with the tech doing stuff that can be finished that day before and after. I watched them for a bit one day from across the street. Try something, wait 10 minutes. Lights come on. Try something else. Wait 10 minutes. Lights still come on. Wash, rinse, repeat. Do the math and you realize there's a ton of waiting around with the stopwatch going and not a whole bunch of actual work being done.

Watching that play out convinced me it was time to escalate and get Ford calling in to nag and offer some technical support.

 

ugh. This is a familiar story. The problem with updating the SW on the modules is that it's very slow and can be 90% done and the load fails. Start all over. The process can be so long it drains the battery. They had to put a new battery in mine and use a tender. Mine ended up in a bad place, I hope you have better luck.
The dealer loses their ass on this. Book time is out the window.

 

I think they mentioned replacing the battery. Telling me the BCM doesn't appear to be the problem raised another alarm bell, sounds like really throwing darts at a dart board at this point. I'd been thinking there was a strong likelihood it would end there. Now I really don't know. Have half a mind to tell them if they can locate something comparable just keep the Powerboost to fix and sell and if the other truck is a bit more split the difference with me.

But I know they want more time first.

 

Having just gone through a Ford repurchase let me pass on a couple of thoughts with best intent. First, I hope it's easy for them to reprogram the BCM or Gateway and you're back in business. If it goes to a bad place like mine did there are a couple of things to be aware of. 1. Ford has a very set process for module diagnosis and it's serial. it's done this way to isolate the quality brush fire that's going on and avoid swapping multiple modules and losing the ability to isolate what failed. This adds time. As painful as it is, you have to give them time to sort it and do the diagnosis. If you don't, it doesn't count as an attempt by them to repair which becomes important later. Also, you can't demand to just return it the way it was with faults and all. If they're into the Gateway everything has been cleared so they are essentially starting a new program. 2. The dealer is already losing money on this and they have no pull other than getting you a loaner. If you want to swap trucks it will most likely be a wholesale to retail financial. Ford as a company will not "help" the dealer until it's a repurchase. 3. Frustrating I know but try to be nice to the techs and service manager. Nobody wants to get your truck back to you more than they do. Good luck!

 

yeah I have a sense of this, my letter to the GM specified the service people are courteous and professional and my frustration is with the problem itself, not any service staff. I haven't raised my voice or used unprofessional language to date. I wasn't even sure I wanted to take it up a level yet, I'm never big on doing that. I hate confrontation and don't like having to pester service advisors with a line in front of them about whether there were any changes with my truck on a given day.

But I felt like if this is going to drag on and could end any number of different ways everybody should be on the same page and communicating starting now rather than me having to go back and tell 1-2 plus months worth of history later.

Again, I hate beating a dead horse but I feel like the service work actually causing problems that weren't there before puts it a level above a standard warranty repair that just pops up, gets complicated and drags on.

My truck doesn't just have a defect they can't figure out. Someone created one, whether Ford with a poorly designed recall or a dealer tech not following
Recall instructions. This is really
The maddening part for me.

 

I think it's time to reimagine how some of these features work. Like for instance, if you have to put an electronic tailgate button on a truck, and you have to have it work through the key fob, it's a remote-less entry item that needs to run through the computer. If work needs to be done to the tailgate you're now messing with software and introducing the potential for other problems. Maybe if you can't get your keyless entry operated tailgate to work correctly just run a simple switch in the cabin wired to the tailgate not feeding into the computer so that's one less reason to ever fiddle with the software. Give the software fewer jobs to do and create fewer instead of more reasons to constantly screw with it.

But what do I know.

 

I’m about to get line x and they are going to keep the tail gate on for the sole reason of we don’t want shit to go haywire for removing it.

 

Caused no issues on my Tremor but I've seen some say the back up camera needed to be reset or something? Line-X tech did forget to reattach the harness for my 2000 Watt inverter in the bed but that was a quick fix.

 

When I had a bedside repainted a couple months back I know they would have removed the tailgate and everything worked perfectly when I picked it up. I don't know if it made a difference but my body shop services luxury import dealers and is very used to quirky electronics.

I read somewhere there is some sort of doohickey maybe in the glovebox to attach to the tailgate wiring harness end and you're supposed to cut the battery, attach it and then turn power back on. If done this way they say the tailgate comes off and on with no problems. Never got around to looking for or looking at it though.

 

Well the Line-X sprayers in Rock Hill, SC are not used to quirky electronics