2022 Hybrid mod install reference

Will upgrading to any aftermarket exhaust throw a code in the computer?

 

I had the engineers at Baja Designs calculate everything for my gen 3 10k Smittybilt. After their research, they agreed that I should go directly to the 12v battery. I’m glad I got confirmation. Now I need to calculate distance/gauge

 

I ran about 17ft and that barely made it of 0 garage wire

 

Question for the group here. I just ordered the Diode Dynamics stealth light bar along with the SS3 ditch lights. Where is everyone wiring these? Empty fuse spot under the hood? Or wiring all the way back to the battery in the rear seat? I understand a winch or something that uses quite a bit if power needing to be back at the battery, but curious for those running aftermarket lights where they wired?

I will be using these switches to turn them on/off.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/132396...kmdjLlMjLW6MfUL3shSso34d-Zu55-h0aApq3EALw_wcB

 

I wired my DD light bar directly to battery under rear seat with same switch…works great!

 

Ran a garmin PowerSwitch under the back seat, then a thermal “extension” to the under hood area

 

Put 285/75R18 Wildpeaks: no rub, no lift. But tight clearance to the mud flaps.

Anti-glare screen protector and Valhalla Shields Cat protector.

 

Make a kit and please sell this!

 

Look up blaze off-road out of Colorado!

 

Where does your wiring enter the cab to get to the 12V battery? Thanks for the help

 

grommets under the driver and passenger seats, then ran through the kick panels into the hybrid battery bay

 

Anyone have ideas on what route to take for a tire inflation system? Kits aren’t designed for battery location.

 

I'm hanging my ARB dual compressor inside the bed fender cavity on the rear driver's side. I'm taking inspiration from @PapaDave418 build with the nice clean ARB switch and quick connect bracket.

For power, I'm planning to run from the 12V battery under the driver's side kick panels, through the large firewall grommet just above the pedals, and then back to the compressor under the truck. There's grommets under the front seats but I'd rather keep those intact to keep water out...for me, I'm going to the better-safe-than-sorry route. Currently, pulling together all the pieces.

 

mine haven’t leaked once under the seats, but I did silicone everything up solidly once I was finally done

 

Nope. Only deleting the cats will.

 

I doubt it. I got the Trd exhaust installed on my ‘23 hybrid no issues at all it sounds good on sports mode Who has installed cold air intakes on their twin turbo hybrid ? Any major sound difference? And I also want to add this grille and light bar kit https://raveoffroad.com/products/2022-tundra-complete-heritage-pro-grille-kit
Might be a PIA to wired switch inside the cab tho.

 

There’s no such thing as a 22+ trd exhaust. There’s a trd tailpipe which is useless since it still uses the factory restriction style muffler as seen here:

https://youtu.be/fnRQSdpa64Q

 

Very nice! Anyone else doing something similar? I've been contemplating running some heavy-gauge cables to a set of terminal studs under the hood, like those in the pic below (with a circuit breaker close to the battery), but would that be safe? I feel like that would be the easiest way to wire in the winch and switch kit I'll be purchasing sooner or later

 

Catless downpipes are finally here!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/g3tdqs9hvc0?feature=share

 

When can we order?

 

Give a call in a few hours. 760-877-4234

Keith

 

Here’s what I did for a compressor but with a future winch in mind: https://www.tundras.com/threads/arb-compressor-fender-well-mount-for-hybrid.117757/#post-3078766

For the winch, I plan to run a large ground back to battery and replace the 150A circuit breaker with something much more substantial. Probably a circuit breaker bypass where I can switch between always having 150A power for the compressor and then 500A for the winch. This should do the job: https://www.bluesea.com/products/11...y_3_Position_Selector_Battery_Switch_with_AFD

Now, I understand you could need 600A on a max capacity pull but I try to never do that and typically use a snatch block which doubles your capacity / reduces the necessary line pull by half.

Here’s a nice article about winches and amps needed for specific pulls: https://www.mikesjeep.com/articles/choosing-a-winch

 

Love your compressor mount (I may copy that) and the way you ran the cable to the underhood buss bar.

To simplify things, couldn't you leave the 500A circuit breaker by the battery and move the 150A underhood, coming off the buss bar? That would be simpler, so you wouldn't have to switch anything when you started winching.

 

Yeah, probably so. I might just be playing it too safe with the breakers and high capacity switch. The thought was to limit the possibility of a high amperage short with the 150A breaker and have the 500A only when I need it.

 

Do you have more pictures of your garmin setup? The double row terminal in the bay with the negative location , as well as the garmin under under the seat? Also do you know what length of wire you needed from the battery to the terminal?

 

Follow

 

Ill take some pictures this weekend. Blaze offroad in denver was the one who did it.

 

Yeah I contacted them for info but they pretty much told me to kick rocks.

 

Damn sorry about that.

 

Watching for Switch Pros install, did it on my 18 4Runner. Order all the parts I think I may need for the SP install.