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2000 4.7L SR5

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by MarkBeast10, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. Feb 5, 2019 at 10:24 AM
    #1
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    2000 4.7L SR5-


    Needed new battery: Went with Optima Red Top.
    085AD1AE-6D59-4F61-9D1A-919A65988A7D.jpg

    Started with full service flushes for the Coolant, Power Steering and Brake Fluid Service at 50K and new a Radiator.

    Starter failed so I replaced the relay:
    CE39699C-9CB1-436D-8802-FE1DC690B50D.jpg

    After the easiest fix didn’t work, i looked up the tundra schematics and decided to clean it up:
    47BD9E4A-15EB-48A7-80F7-04A6B66FAB9B.jpg

    I didn’t really want to take the whole thing apart and get to the starter way deep in the engine bay like the map was telling me:
    EC34EA8B-9F16-4B7B-9772-72043203B46D.gif
    So I just drained the system, removed the minimal amount of bolts, unplugged all the hoses and anything in the way and removed the whole upper and lower intake manifold together without disassembling the throttle body assembly.
    You have to becareful because I let it set on the temperature sensor (circled) and had to replace it:
    1E3CB65C-5841-49B8-9ECD-4F02B8B82069.jpg

    Although I did it the wild man style you have to be prepared to pick up the whole intake straight up, I did it alone but if my friend had stayed for another hour it would have been easier to lift.

    Now I had access to remove the starter:
    2F76836F-32C0-4B98-8ADD-2DC38435BD65.jpg

    I considered changing the contacts on the starter as a rebuild but there was no way on Earth I was going to put it all back together on a 50/50 chance I would have to do it again. Plus the teeth looked kind of worn out and I wanted to show my work off:
    012446B6-0959-4575-AFC4-439EEB3AABA7.jpg

    I finally got some sleep once the starter was out and woke up to how wild I was being on the dismantling so I changed plans and pulled out the fuel lines and got new o-rings for the injectors:
    8FCDDD13-9ACE-4DE9-96C8-1E716446FEC3.jpg

    Cleaned up the engine compartment and installed the new starter.
    DC164370-E1F5-41FE-8B50-D38B9815B666.jpg

    I went ahead and bought a new gasket set for the intake manifold:
    89B0BC8A-F068-4816-A07C-B12833257B13.jpg

    I still didn’t disassemble the lower and upper assembly or the throttle body I just lifted it up, Jimmyed it alittle and placed it back down in place, Reconnected all the hoses and plugs And reset the fuel lines. As long as I put the gaskets in correctly, it was working:
    726EFD59-9DBB-43B4-8E0B-D2193694E473.jpg
    09AF0C3E-8DAD-4B6D-8AF1-34069B260587.jpg

    At this point I decided to put silicone hoses on before reintroducing the coolant since I’d have the truck back up and running. I double checked everything and reinstalled the battery:
    35FCE31B-9B1F-41A6-89B4-53161723A27F.jpg

    For some reason I just didn’t want to put the OEM airbox back in place. I went back and forth between the different short rams and boxes available but my 97 S10 Chevy was K&N decked out with performance pumps, KN oil filters, KN CAI etc since day one so naturally I looked at the K&N CAI set up and installed it:
    A7CEF3FD-BC1A-4C1B-90E8-BA76AEF842CA.jpg

    Once I had the CAI set up in place I kept looking at this side compartment that the OEM box vented into, I went ahead and took the tube out of the OEM box and installed it on the side wall:
    29FBADC5-1442-496E-A37C-9C041316073D.jpg
    2E816172-70F8-49F4-888B-E21223C85681.jpg

    Whether this did anything is still up for debate or whether I should cut it shorter to ram air or be less restrictive is one my dyno friend is still having conversations to me about. I’m holding off on cutting it incase I decide to use the OEM box again. I put in a JET MAF:
    DB0D96A3-6A49-45B4-A680-DEF7101F7E13.jpg

    I also put in a tornado in the CAI at the TB: 5D13F206-1C7D-4F1D-9F09-86EFFCEA8465.jpg
    but sold it and replaced it with a Taylor TBS:
    89E511A9-082F-4B5B-8A96-766ED1FE1DD4.jpg

    At 125k I went ahead and had the TKT-021 Kit put in for the water pump and timing belt, crankshaft and camshaft seals. The mileage sits at 150k as of now so I’m considering the second phase of what I will do with the engine build. Not really looking to blow it out with a supercharger although considering upgrading injectors, stronger rods and maybe throttle body coolant bypass.

    For phase two I’ve started with JBL shorties:
    F297A987-7427-4E25-8019-643940783E6C.jpg

    I decided to go with wrap to keep the heat down. I noticed if you place masking tape over the wrap before you cut, it won’t splinter and fray everywhere. This way I didn’t lose all my material:
    6782F8FF-866F-4CF4-8E8F-6F6026E318F4.jpg
    58740759-D672-4AE3-8441-40DFEC8B77C1.jpg

    I used basic metal ties to secure the wrap to the headers. Then I began to spray them with high temp coating yesterday:
    F230BFEB-DEE2-4EE0-9950-23985524B58C.jpg
    Once I get these squared away I will begin phase two.

    This is my engine set up today:
    43F16E7B-91F9-416B-B872-C02ECEE64D55.jpg

    Engine Build Part 1 End
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
  2. Feb 5, 2019 at 10:26 AM
    #2
    COMiamiFan

    COMiamiFan Super Secret Elite Member #3

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    Nice write up and pics!
     
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  3. Feb 5, 2019 at 11:05 AM
    #3
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, I appreciate it!
     
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  4. Feb 5, 2019 at 1:48 PM
    #4
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Sweet write up. A recommendation for you. Most of us have swapped out our interior bulbs for LED's. Total cost for just the lights is around $25 and makes a huge difference.
     
  5. Feb 5, 2019 at 8:03 PM
    #5
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Cool feedback thanks! I will definitely do that this weekend, sounds like fun. Would you recommend changing the cluster lights in the instrument panel or would I have to get out a soldering iron for those?
     
  6. Feb 5, 2019 at 9:28 PM
    #6
    because_wumbo-truck

    because_wumbo-truck TTC#036 & 1st Degenerate

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    flowmaster 40, DDI injectors, sliders, bumper
    Man you had me til I saw this. What carburetor?
     
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  7. Feb 6, 2019 at 2:36 AM
    #7
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Yes. Might as well do the clusrer lights as well. No soldering iron required.

    Here is a good thread on it. Most ordered from superbrightLEDs.com
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/gear-indicator-lamp.11916/
     
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  8. Feb 6, 2019 at 3:23 AM
    #8
    Brownsfanhere

    Brownsfanhere New Member

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    I like this write up. Very cool. Paint looks pretty good for a gen1. New to Toyota myself. Weird place for a starter. Geez. Nice work. Love write ups like this. Job well done.
     
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  9. Feb 6, 2019 at 5:08 PM
    #9
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    That tornado is shoved in to the CAI where it meets the throttle body assembly. Someone suggested to get a throttle body spacer but I don’t think it’ll fit with the CAI tube possibly hitting the radiator fan.
     
  10. Feb 6, 2019 at 5:12 PM
    #10
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    That starter location was the most awkward situation I’ve ever encountered. Once I looked under the wheel and then searched for it a bit in the engine compartment, I went to the diagram and was shocked to find it in the engine bay. The paint is good, I’ll take a full body picture one of these days. Thanks for the feedback!
     
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  11. Feb 6, 2019 at 5:14 PM
    #11
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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  12. Feb 6, 2019 at 5:31 PM
    #12
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    Rx350 retrofitted, Morimoto Led fogs. interior and exterior leds swap. TRD drop in filter. Carbon filter delete. Led DRL panels. TRD Shift knob.
    shoulda clean the TB while you had it off..
    good work
     
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  13. Feb 6, 2019 at 8:57 PM
    #13
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    I want to take the TB off one of these days and clean it. I took off the whole upper and lower intake assembly without removing the TB individually. Do you recommend using a wire brush to clean it? Thanks
     
  14. Feb 7, 2019 at 5:19 AM
    #14
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    No. Please dont use wirebrush.
    3 items
    1. Old toothbrush
    2. TB cleaner (spray can)
    3. Clean rag

    Spray, brush, spray , wipe. Pretty easy really.
     
  15. Dec 20, 2019 at 7:18 PM
    #15
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, Was pretty easy, and quite clean already. Any way to make it spotless?

    AB990BD1-BBB0-479F-BDE5-2EF60B07CB82.jpg
     
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  16. Dec 20, 2019 at 7:35 PM
    #16
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    No need to be spotless. You can unbolt the throttle body and clean the other side.
     
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  17. Dec 20, 2019 at 7:37 PM
    #17
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Good suggestion! if I really want it OCD spotless I probably will. Might have to, feels like I made it more oily trying to clean it. It’s Still in good shape though

     
  18. Dec 20, 2019 at 7:39 PM
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    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    Use CRC throttle body cleaner. That's what I used and it clean well enough for me.
     
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  19. Dec 20, 2019 at 7:53 PM
    #19
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Ok will do! I’ve been needing to get some contact cleaner too, do you soak it at all or just spray a rag and soft brush it?


     
  20. Dec 20, 2019 at 8:14 PM
    #20
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    Depends on how much carbon build up. If I unbolt the tb then I spray it down. Washing away any carbon that can be lifted. Then wipe and repeat til satisfied. If soak, I wont soak very long, couple sec is enough. Most of the cleaning is from the brush and wipe.
     
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  21. Dec 20, 2019 at 8:48 PM
    #21
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    I definitely need to do that! Any advice on cleaning the topside? Someone said take a rotary wire brush to the aluminum.. I can still see blemishes, I probably should have cleaned both sides better when I had them off.
    B4DA0BC3-1687-441B-B016-AC44FE718775.jpg

    Do you advise using a rotary tool inside the engine bay?
     
  22. Dec 21, 2019 at 3:17 AM
    #22
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Just spray a rag with some fluid film or penetrating fluid and wipe the metal down for a refresh. No need for wire brushing but if you you go that route use a roto-zip at low speed with one of their little wire brush heads. You’ll probably had to wipe it down after the brushing as described above.
     
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  23. Dec 21, 2019 at 3:27 AM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    You should post up more often over in the What’d You Do Section. You’ve done some cool stuff. You see any performance gains from the air box work?
     
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  24. Dec 21, 2019 at 3:53 AM
    #24
    Johnsonman

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    Nice find and work up along the way. How has the 'vornado' worked out, improved fuel efficiency?

    Not sure about wrapping the exhaust pipes. In my experience, they get wet and cause rust on the pipes. Perhaps you'll be luckier. Enjoy the gift. : ^ ))
     
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  25. Dec 22, 2019 at 2:28 AM
    #25
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks! I’ll look around for the What’d You Do section and post some more of these works. I messed around with the air box a little bit more but ended up sticking with the same KN setup. I saw a tundra with a funnel on the front bumper to increase air flow to their box, might try that.
     
  26. Dec 22, 2019 at 2:33 AM
    #26
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    I ended up selling that ‘vornado’ to a s10 friend who wanted it for some reason;


    Hmm, hope these don’t get wet if so I’ll cut the wrap off down the road. I think I’m too late to turn back now. Wrapped and sprayed..
    795E22EB-89D9-4C61-99A7-63CBA0BEB476.jpg
     
  27. Dec 27, 2019 at 7:49 AM
    #27
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Please let us know how the install goes on this. I've heard everything from "it's terrible" to "it wasn't that bad". I think it really depends on how rusty the bolts are.
     
  28. Jan 22, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #28
    MarkBeast10

    MarkBeast10 [OP] New Member

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    Luckily I had minimal rust on the header bolts. The bolts came off the studs very easily.
    4789F4F3-A8F5-4DF2-A9E7-580C5A7C36FD.jpg
     
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