2000 4.7 that's limping/hesitating at more than 1/2 throttle

That blows....not wait he did not have relations with that woman....sorry, couldn’t pass it up with the Clinton reference

 

Find a cliff, get out of said truck as it goes off cliff....claim insurance

 

Also should mention it spit out about 1.75 quarts from the rear end (black and awful sparkly) and took about 3.75....

Took it for a ride and feels a tiny bit better maybe, but almost feels like the traction control from a modern car when it's lacking traction pulls back power despite you pressing the gas. And anything over 2k RPM causes it to shudder and bog, feels like driving on a rumble strip/cobblestones.

Already watched a couple vids on replacing the carrier bearing....not sure I'm up to that... especially with how difficult the rear end service was

 

I mean ok..... But I bought it cause I need to use it....soooo getting like half what I paid back in insurance isn't really going to help me, just means I'm back to searching Craigslist/Marketplace constantly to find another one

 

Meant nothing by it, just makes my gut hurt every time I see our Tundras with that kind of rust damage. Somewhat surprised anyone would insure a vehicle that could literally explode going down the road. But I digress given we are in merica where companies think more about all mighty dollar and their bottom line.

 

Understood, just looking to get this thing serviceable for weekend trips to the hardware store, etc. It's my own fault for letting the 'good deal' it seemed to be cloud my judgment about how rough it looked in places.

 

Looks like the road salt was never washed off. I’m willing to bet it you have a bed liner, the pickup bed is full of rust holes.

 

Ya, I'd have to guess the same but the frame is in pretty good shape, though it was replaced. Bed seems relatively solid just some heavy rust on the supports that I need to address at some point.

 

Looking at all that's involved in replacing the u-joints, carrier bearing, and the double u-joint (forgot what it's called), would I be better off just replacing the whole rear drive shaft and starting fresh? Seems cost wise it's somewhere between $500-800 for the parts.

 

New drive shaft is $800, not sure if it comes with the carrier bearing, another $60. While it is definitely heavily crusted and in need of a refresh, are you sure that's why the truck is behaving that way? Not to bring the push it off a cliff business back up, but that's another $1k that may not solve the issue. 335ft/lb of torque will have no problem twirling a worn out bushing. Something bigger lurks. I would have an overall diagnostic done on the truck to see ALL of it's issues prior to sinking any more money in it. It may need more repairs than it's worth.

 

Fair point, just didn't want to blow money on a diagnostic to have them come back with a list for $20k worth of stuff to make it all perfect. But maybe worth the $100 at this point.

Anyone have recommendations in the North Central CT/Western Mass area?

Do think it's the utter lack of a carrier bearing and completely borked u-joints causing the issue based on what I've read seen in other threads/vids at this point.

 

worth every penny of that $100. But for $100, I would want a full systems review. Not just a what's visible, check engine light diagnostic crap. The driveshaft could give you vibrations for sure, but shouldn't bog down the motor. It would take some serious resistance to slow down or bog the engine. Bigger concern would be transmission issues.

 

Right, but to clarify it's not an engine issue as it revs pretty freely in neutral and even pretty well at higher speeds. It's just under like 50mph and 2K RPM that it feels like it's going to rattle itself apart.

 

Gotcha, was under the impression it was bogging or hesitating at that RPM. Sounds like it's just vibrations your feeling? Unfortunately, In your area I doubt there are any serviceable U-pull it driveshafts available. Maybe check with a driveline shop and see what they would charge to pull it and refresh it for ya. May be less than $800 and might also come with some free diagnostic advice for other things they see. Is your truck 4wd?

 

Ya it's 4WD and ya I wouldn't expect much from any of the junk yards around. Had the same thought and reached out to a driveshaft shop yesterday so fingers crossed they come back with good news tomorrow.

 

If I was bored, I'd pull the rear driveshaft off and drive it 4hi and see what it feels like. You can unbolt it from both end flanges and remove the whole thing. Then rock a FWD Tundy around the block at the speeds that you had the issue before.

 

Suppose that would rule it out, but given how crusty all those bolts are I don't really want to risk breaking half of them unless I've already got replacement bits in hand.

 

If you break em, you can drive to the driveshaft shop in FWD

 

car-part.com may show a used driveshaft nearby that could be cheaper than new parts.

 

Agree and that's usually my first thought, cept all the junk yards around here are gonna have stuff just as rusty if not worse