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2000 4.7 that's limping/hesitating at more than 1/2 throttle

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by ThatYeti, Mar 28, 2021.

  1. Mar 28, 2021 at 9:23 AM
    #1
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Picked up a 2000 Tundra that's been sitting a while and I've changed the oil but nothing else yet. When I put in drive it shifts a little hard so trans fluid & filter swap is planned, but after it's in gear it doesn't want to give it all the gas I'm asking for via the pedal. If I'm on the gas even half throttle, the RPMs rise a little and the whole truck will vibrate sorta, and then it'll eventually shift or catch up.

    Noticed today the rear end is leaking a bit so I'm going to drain and fill that so I can try to keep track of where it's leaking from but is that the issue or is it trans related?
     
  2. Mar 28, 2021 at 9:33 AM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    *Could be bad ignition coil(s).

    Hard to know unless there. Trucks been sitting which isn’t good so she’ll need a proper shakedown.

    Suggest doing multiple drain and fills with Dex/Merc and observe fluid and possible improvement in driving condition. Approx. 4 quarts per drain and fill. Drive. Repeat two more times.
     
    Filthyphil and Jack McCarthy like this.
  3. Mar 28, 2021 at 10:01 AM
    #3
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Thanks and supposedly the previous owner had recently replaced the coil packs and they look new so I don't think that's the main source at least.

    The fluid drain and fills you mention, is that for the trans or the rear diff?

    I drove it back on the highway a full hour and the only issue was is almost overheated but since I've been smelling an oil burning sort of smell from the rear which is when I noticed the diff leaking. Since I've only taken it on a few short rides.
     
  4. Mar 28, 2021 at 10:09 AM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Drain and fill was for transmission. Easier than the pan drop which many have done here and they all look clean inside so save yourself the headache.

    You could drain and fill the rear diff easily on our trucks.

    Overheated engine could be old clogged radiator or coolant past its useful life gunk build up. Without being there its hard to tell. Take some pics of everything and post up.
     
  5. Mar 28, 2021 at 10:14 AM
    #5
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy New Member

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    Overheating? Does the heater work? Maybe your thermostat is stuck in the closed position. Also do your tranny and rear diff fluid. You should check the level on the rear end if it’s burning. Maybe you’re too low. Should be enough to the fill plug. About 3.8 quarts if I remember correctly.
     
  6. Mar 28, 2021 at 10:20 AM
    #6
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    When I bought mine, it had been sitting quite some time as well. I changed all filters (oil, fuel and air) as well as all new fluids (oil, trans, t-case and diffs).

    Somethings I did later but I wish I would have done right away was new brake fluid, clean battery cables, spark plugs, clean MAF and clean the throttle body. You might looking at doing a coolant exchange as well as that stuff can pretty nasty. Some of these caused issues later on that could have been prevented if I had done right out of the gate.
     
  7. Mar 28, 2021 at 11:03 AM
    #7
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Panic mode

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    damn you've got a plate full buddy, thankfully they arnt too bad to work on. hopefully your transmission drain pan bolts are not totally rusted out..
     
  8. Mar 28, 2021 at 11:38 AM
    #8
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Thanks all. Should have added it's got about 265k for what that's worth.

    Will plan to cycle the trans fluid and at least drain/fill the diff for starters. Assuming it's got a leak somewhere so likely rtv/epoxy for that at least temporarily.

    From there I'm figuring it'll need a timing belt so I figure that's probably something I'll have to pay to get done (well out of my level of capability) so I figure I'll have a bunch done at the same time (radiator, water pump, pulleys, belts, etx.).
     
  9. Mar 31, 2021 at 7:43 AM
    #9
    peanut

    peanut making uneconomical choices about my truck

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    Hard shifts could also be because you need to grease the driveshaft. There are I think seven grease fittings on the 4x4 that need greased regularly
     
  10. Mar 31, 2021 at 8:00 AM
    #10
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, I'm sure that needs to be done but thinking the main culprit is the rear end at this point. Still waiting on new fluids to show up and having a hard time finding replacement plugs so I may have to try to stealership at this point.
     
  11. Mar 31, 2021 at 8:44 AM
    #11
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    That’s the only place to get them that I’m aware of. I got mine from McGeorge Toyota online and they were cheap, even with shipping.
     
  12. Mar 31, 2021 at 9:51 AM
    #12
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Not so new-ish Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    Are you able to get the fill plug off the rear differential? Check the fluid here. Should at least be able to feel a little fluid with your pinky in there, if not, add some before driving. Is it leaking because its rusted out? Or leaking from the third member or pinion seal? Start with the easy / cheap stuff and work your way up. Sounds like previous owner parked it for the issues you are seeing and didn't want to fix them. Your problem now unfortunately. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
     
  13. Mar 31, 2021 at 10:03 AM
    #13
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Scraped and cleaned it yesterday, seems like it's just weeping and potentially leaking through the center of the 'back face' of the pumpkin but would guess it's just too low maybe at this point to leak any more. Waiting on the new plugs from the stealer before trying to take out the old ones.
     
  14. Mar 31, 2021 at 10:10 AM
    #14
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Not so new-ish Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    pictures?
     
  15. Mar 31, 2021 at 10:14 AM
    #15
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Raining out but I'll grab some
     
  16. Mar 31, 2021 at 1:03 PM
    #16
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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  17. Mar 31, 2021 at 1:34 PM
    #17
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Not so new-ish Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    That's a crusty rear end for sure. If the diff cover is leaking, It's not a straight forward repair. They have a replacement cover, but the old one has to be cut off and a new one welded on. Weld doesn't stick to rust, so you have to have a clean surface to weld it to. Seems easiest to find a donor. Guessing this truck had a frame replacement already. Spare tire is crusty as well. The worries here are numerous.
    Low diff fluid, leaking diff.
    Transmission issues.
    Engine performance issues.
    Cooling issues.
    How attached to this truck are you? If you got it cheap and have some dough for repairs you may be able to make a runner out of her. Even better if you're willing to do the work. Or, you may throw a bunch of cash at it and still have a crusty, issue laden truck if you can't get through all the issues economically enough for it to make sense.
     
  18. Mar 31, 2021 at 1:44 PM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  19. Mar 31, 2021 at 1:47 PM
    #19
    lsaami

    lsaami Let ‘er buck

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    Check engine light?
     
  20. Mar 31, 2021 at 1:59 PM
    #20
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    It's had the frame replaced and appreciate all the info. I got it cheap enough and it's only ever going to be a weekend/projects truck so given I got it cheap enough I'm happy to try my hand at little fixes here and there. Think I'll give the wire brush and POR-15 route a shot as I wasn't able to find any holes where it'd be coming out, and I'll see about finding the breather valve to make sure that's on ok shape as well.

    Thinking the greasing of the drive line might actually solve the issue I'm feeling, been a while since I've seen worker on a truck so it didn't even cross my mind, but makes all the sense in the world.
     
  21. Mar 31, 2021 at 2:00 PM
    #21
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Not now, but got one when I test drove it, didn't have my reader at the time unfortunately. Think that was for low oil since it didn't come back after I added some but it's also not done with a drive cycle yet, despite being driven an hour home (per the emissions people)
     
    lsaami likes this.
  22. Apr 3, 2021 at 9:56 AM
    #22
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ok, have all the supplies finally. Scraped off the read end in preparation for cleaning it for some POR-15, and noticed a pin hole near the top. Should I permatex it first or just let the POR-15 cover it?
     
  23. Apr 3, 2021 at 10:30 AM
    #23
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Pic

    PXL_20210403_165659930.jpg
     
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  24. Apr 7, 2021 at 8:53 PM
    #24
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    I’d ask a local shop what they would charge to patch it. Shouldn’t be too much.
     
  25. Apr 10, 2021 at 10:04 AM
    #25
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ok so it's all patched up and looking ridiculously shiny, and I'm trying to change the fluid....but predicably the bolts won't come off started with the fill plug as many recommend and I had to go but a 24mm just for this...so it's brand new, but still not coming loose and I'm just starting to round it off which I'm trying to avoid cause I know it'll mean a trip to a shop. Soaked it in WD-40 and taking a break. Any other suggestions? Also pretty sure the cause of the low speed stuttering is the completely toasted drive shaft bushing and the fact that none of the grease fittings want to accept any grease. Regardless I want to get the diff fluid swapped so any help is appreciated.PXL_20210410_161954330.jpg
     
  26. Apr 10, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #26
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Liquid wrench or pb blaster. Then heat it up with a propane or mapp gas torch. Spray again with penetrating fluid. May take a few tries.
     
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  27. Apr 10, 2021 at 10:45 AM
    #27
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Don't have a torch, but am I just going to make it worse at this point? Should I just call it an 'L' and plan on having a shop take it off?
     
  28. Apr 10, 2021 at 2:28 PM
    #28
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Looks like I won today, but seems the carrier bearing and u-joints all need replacing.

    PXL_20210410_205708899.jpg
     
  29. Apr 10, 2021 at 2:37 PM
    #29
    smokey0810

    smokey0810 New Member

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    Late to the party, but I know when I shorted out my throttle installing my fog light wiring, there was a fuse that was blown when resulted in a limp mode with hard shifts. Forgot what fuse it was, but it was scary when it happened.
     
  30. Apr 10, 2021 at 2:41 PM
    #30
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, based on how it feels and the fact it doesn't happen in neutral I'm pinning it on all the drive shaft bits that haven't been serviced since the clinton administration it seems
     
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