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Rusted leaking rear differential cover

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Big Paully, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. Jun 24, 2018 at 11:52 AM
    #1
    Big Paully

    Big Paully [OP] New Member

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    I have a 2002 Tundra four-wheel drive. My rear differential cover, for lack of a better description, was Rusted and leaking. I read all of the different solutions on here and only a couple seemed to apply. For one, if you're planning on welding a new cover on the differential, keep this in mind. The differential housing is cast iron and the cover which is mild steel, is Flash welded on to the cast iron housing. So if you're going to weld a new one on you better know something about welding cast iron it's not easy. I have been a welder all my life so I know. What I did was drain the rear end, scrape the cover as best I could, wash it down with acetone and then lacquer thinner, then I sandblasted the cover. It was perforated but not so bad that I could not sandblast it. I then again washed it down with lacquer thinner. I then applied 4 coats over a period Of 2 days of por-15. That is some really neat stuff. It is not cheap but it is worth every penny. if the spillover is any indication of how tough this stuff is, then it is quite tough better than J-B Weld or even two-part High build Epoxy paint. After this all dried I replaced the fluid and then sprayed it with four coats of truck bed liner paint. I think this is going to work. It worked on a bike gas tank that was in throwaway condition. I did both the inside and the outside and that was four years ago and I have had no problems. Aside from doing this or welding a new cover on, the only other solution that I can see is finding a bolt on cover, Drilling and tapping holes into the casing of the differential, placing studs and bolting on the cover with a gasket. What this would mean removing the differential from the vehicle disassembling the differential cleaning it especially after the drilling and tapping. And I don't know if they both on cover could be found. the other solution is finding a differential housing from the southwest where there is no rust and either put in your guts in it or getting one that will match. Either one of these other solutions would be pricey and lot of work and disabling your vehicle for several days or weeks. I would like to hear some comments on this solution that I have posed.
     
  2. Jun 24, 2018 at 3:47 PM
    #2
    Pale_Horse

    Pale_Horse Sooooooooo White.

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    Cupcake chit.
    Appreciate the thread but you only get 4 stars because no pictures :)
     
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  3. Sep 10, 2018 at 4:52 PM
    #3
    CLT@PBD

    CLT@PBD New Member

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    Exactly which POR-15 product did you use?
     
  4. Sep 10, 2018 at 5:45 PM
    #4
    Big Paully

    Big Paully [OP] New Member

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    IMG_20180910_204405863.jpg

    I think the trick is to get it as clean as possible and apply many coats. It's still working great and looking great. Saved me probably $2500 +/-
     
  5. Sep 10, 2018 at 5:50 PM
    #5
    Big Paully

    Big Paully [OP] New Member

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    It is dark at this time, send me an email and I will take photos of the differential and send them tomorrow.
    LACASSEPP@GMAIL.COM
     
  6. Sep 12, 2018 at 3:54 AM
    #6
    Hossdawson

    Hossdawson New Member

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    Hi
    If you havent’t already, you should call Toyota and register a complaint about the shitty thin metal cover that they used on the rear diff. If enough people enter complaints, they may do something. The number is 1-800-331-4331.
    Hoss
     
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  7. Oct 12, 2018 at 5:36 PM
    #7
    CLT@PBD

    CLT@PBD New Member

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    I was pursuing the less expensive solution but, 1) at my age I don't like climbing under trucks anymore and, 2) I didn't want to have a fix I'd have to be worrying about. So I was getting a haircut and complaining about it to my hairdresser. She had an '02 Tundra that had the same issue. She had also had the frame replaced under the rust recall, just like me. Her regular mechanic did the rear end for $1700. So I contacted him and dropped the truck off. It ended up costing me $2400 mainly because the speed sensors (part of the ABS) couldn't be removed (more of that rust thing) and re-used.
    The final tally was $1,460 for the diff, $490 for the two speed sensors, around $160 for fluids, hazmat disposal, and other parts and $380 labor. All in all, it was worth it. The truck has some miles left in it and I have a real permanent solution that I won't have to worry about.
    Happy (rust-free) motoring!
    CT
     
  8. Sep 9, 2019 at 12:34 PM
    #8
    SherbertPutin

    SherbertPutin New Member

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    Hey Big Paully! I'm having the same problem with my 02 tundra. I was wondering if you think an undercoating spray or marine marine adhesive sealant might have the same effect as I can't find por15 at the only auto parts place on island. Thanks!
     
  9. Sep 9, 2019 at 2:29 PM
    #9
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Assuming your cover is not yet perforated, myself and others on this forum have had success using Ospho to deactivate the rust, then painting with your choice of primer and topcoat, rust-oleum, krylon, etc.
     
  10. Sep 9, 2019 at 5:19 PM
    #10
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    Since the cover is connected and is not the only area that can leak....depending on how rotten your axle housing is — I solved my leaking housing problem by finding a non rusted housing and swapping the guts. Turned out to be a Very slick repair......
     
  11. Sep 9, 2019 at 5:58 PM
    #11
    hagrid

    hagrid The most diverse of Diversity Hires!

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    paynuss stretchers
    Cast iron?
     
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  12. Sep 13, 2019 at 10:12 AM
    #12
    SherbertPutin

    SherbertPutin New Member

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    Thanks guys! The leak is rather slow, about one drip an hour and it's coming from the welded seam at the very bottom. The axle housing seems pretty solid. I'm no welder so I really don't want to get into this cast iron. Maybe a j.b.weld or apoxy patch as well as the paint?
     
  13. Sep 13, 2019 at 10:33 AM
    #13
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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  14. Sep 13, 2019 at 10:34 AM
    #14
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    These are steel. They rot at the weld first then keep rusting more and more of the axle.
     
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  15. Sep 13, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #15
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    The drip is only going to get worse with time. Plus when you drive the heated metal expands, increasing the orifice and drip rate. The problem with any epoxy is it wont stick for very long due to constant presence of heated oil.

    Some have had success with drilling out the rusted hole and installing a rivet, which was then lathered in JB or other epoxy. I've even read a post where the guy said he melted lead solder along the bottom the weld seam and had success stopping the leak. Good luck
     
  16. Sep 19, 2019 at 8:48 AM
    #16
    bbmeister

    bbmeister New Member

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  17. Sep 20, 2019 at 8:14 AM
    #17
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    I have a bare housing that is in excellent shape I'd sell ya, but freight to you from Colorado would be significant I'm sure....
     
  18. Sep 20, 2019 at 9:12 AM
    #18
    bbmeister

    bbmeister New Member

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    Thanks Coyote. What’s the weight, whole axel, how much?
     
  19. Sep 20, 2019 at 9:21 AM
    #19
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    Well, I have two options for you... bare housing which would require you to swap in your 3rd member, both axles, abs & e-brake or, I have a complete axle, drum to drum with 3rd member & abs. That is the 3.91 ring & pinion. Weight.... i will check this weekend for you. Bare housing is cheaper and cheaper to ship than a complete axle, but either way I’ll sort out those details for you.
     
  20. Sep 23, 2019 at 6:33 AM
    #20
    bbmeister

    bbmeister New Member

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    Hey Coyote
    Did you get a chance to check approx. weight, I want to see how much it would be to ship
    Also, how much?
     
  21. Sep 23, 2019 at 7:02 AM
    #21
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    Sorry, complete axle drum to drum ( before a pallet or crate ) is 245 lbs
     
  22. Sep 23, 2019 at 7:07 AM
    #22
    bbmeister

    bbmeister New Member

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    How much you asking?
     
  23. Sep 23, 2019 at 7:28 AM
    #23
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    I sent you a message, check your inbox, thnx!
     
  24. Sep 27, 2019 at 8:23 PM
    #24
    NUDRAT

    NUDRAT 6 lug life

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    My rear diff pumpkin was leaking & here's what I did. 2003 SR5 TRD 4WD LSD 209,000.
    I happened to notice a fresh puddle under the truck one day.
    20190511_160211.jpg
    I scraped off all the scale.
    20190525_185442.jpg
    Waited for the leaks to show themselves, drained out the rear end.
    20190525_174554.jpg
    I sanded down the whole thing, there were no clear pin holes just moist areas.
    So I painted it with POR 15.
    BUT - POR 15 is not UV stable, so I used POR 15 "Top Coat" which is UV stable.
    20190525_185549.jpg
    … and everything was fine
    ... until I went on a 1 hour drive & it started leaking again.
    So I put on another 2 coats.

    … and everything was fine.
    Until I went for a 1 hour drive & it started leaking again!

    So seeing a pattern & getting sick of crawling under the truck & looking under the truck...
    I drained it again & sanded down where the damp was coming out.
    I used JB weld on those areas. When dry I put some more JB Weld going slightly wider.
    When that was dry I put on 3 coats of POR 15 Top Coat.

    ...and it didn't leak running around town!

    BUT - while at the mechanic anyway - I had them check the function of the rear axle housing breather.
    'cause, see this 1 hour driving = leaks pattern. I figured pressure was building up.

    Sure enough, mechanic said the breather was full of rust & crap & frozen shut.
    I told him to go ahead & order a new unit & he said he'd already cleaned it out & it was functioning fine.

    … and I went for a 1 hour drive & it didn't leak.
    … and another 1 hour drive & it still wasn't leaking.
    Knock on wood, hasn't leaked since.

    So POR 15 Top Coat, maybe JB Weld depending on your pin holes, & definitely verify breather is working.
    All that is fairly cheap. if it doesn't resolve your issue, begin your hunt for donor items to do your surgery.

    And if you're at 100k or more, & not leaking - check your breather! LOL.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2019
  25. Oct 17, 2019 at 9:42 PM
    #25
    Oldgray

    Oldgray New Member

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    I just picked up my tundra and was told it needed a gasket looked like that's what was leaking bought truck to find out its rusted

    Jb weld and a rust converter for now. On The hunt for a new housing. But that's really all that was wrong with the truck and everything else is up to date and fully serviced so not the end of the world.
     
  26. Oct 17, 2019 at 10:31 PM
    #26
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    Check with @bbmeister — i sent him a great housing but as it turns out he needs one without abs sensor mounts. Last I heard he was planning to sell it and find a non-Abs housing...he may still have it.

    I do have a complete axle if you need more than just the housing...

    Oops just seeing your rig is a double cab, I don’t think this housing would work...
    i have a limited slip rear 3rd if you need one though!!
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2019
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  27. Oct 18, 2019 at 4:06 AM
    #27
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    For those with axles still in decent shape, but they just look rusty should consider spraying all those welds (entire axle too) with PB Blast’r Penetrant and then follow up with a slathering of grease. Works on our frames, as well.

    A preventative measure.
     
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  28. Oct 25, 2019 at 7:13 PM
    #28
    Mytechguyri

    Mytechguyri New Member

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    Nah... I picked up an axle housing from California (no rust) for $350 shipped to the northeast.... Did the full swap out in about 6 hours. Granted we have a great DIY garage here with fully equipped service bays... Definitely not something i would tackle in the driveway on jack stands.
     
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  29. Oct 25, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #29
    Mytechguyri

    Mytechguyri New Member

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    Did you ever find a housing? I've got one for the 1st gen double cab w/abs.. Came off of a 2006 from California.... Great condition, no rust. (Long story but in my swap out, on 1st try, got one that was miscategorized as access cab but came off double cab, so was 2" too wide for my axles.) Wasnt worth me shipping it back and i figured I'd find someone who could use it since these things do rust out..... I'd be happy recovering what i have into it....
     
  30. Oct 25, 2019 at 7:21 PM
    #30
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    350 shipped that’s a pretty good deal
     

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