1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

5vz? Want.
E-locker? Bonus.

 

When I was going through my white 2005 to sale it and removing all the stuff from under the seat the drivers side plastic under the seat had condensation on it. When I took everything out of the storage compartment there was a dampness to the carpet incert...



Fast forward... today I was organizing and taking stuff out of my phantom pearl 2005 storage, checked the seat plastic it was dry... I pulled all the stuff out and the carpet is damp, pulled the carpet up and there is wetness enough to where I could take a paper towel and get it wet enough to ring out.


Q. Anyone else have a 1st gen and live where it’s cold and wet and notice there is condensation or moisture build up under the drivers side rear seat and or in the storage compartment?

I wouldn’t have thought much about it but now I’ve noticed 2 with the same issue in the last week.
I’m sure this won’t effect a dry climate vehicle. Seems like something to do with the thin metal under the carpet incert and maybe having the heater on then parking allowing moisture build up.

If this is the case it might be a good idea for anyone in cold wet climates to take everything out every couple of weeks while it’s cold and wet out and wipe down the metal under the carpet incert so the carpet doesn’t get wet and rust any tools you’ve got in there.

I’ll be keeping an eye on it and checking mine through the winter/spring months.

 

@GIN•OKUMA check this and see if it lines up.

 

Actually I worked on it today. The Tacoma is back where the Mercedes was. Put the new gas tank on

 

Hell yeah

 

Well you've a DC, so not the rear center window. @Professional Hand Model had posted where he'd found water intrusion to that area from a gasket mount point over the rear door. might be your issue.

 

There was a stain on the driver side rear door carpet area when I got it.
Didnt smell and the truck doesn’t smell of mildew... yet.

It cleaned up ok. Not perfect.

 

Please... tell me more.
About this gasket mount point over the rear door.

 

he & I have access cabs, so might be different, or not. Gasket along top of door opening on the vehicle (not door) goes across of opening, & starts down the rear end of the opening & stops. There are some fasteners that get gunked up & the gasket shrinks w/ age & the door rubbing... end up with a gap for water to enter body, comes out base of the C pillar into the truck in left rear corner. i'm sure photos on PHM's build thread.

 

Sounds like the double cab might be different.
I don’t feel any moisture anywhere on any other part of the carpet, seals, panels around the inner cab. It is only in the bottom of the storage compartment. The metal under the black carpet liner is wet and the black carpet that touches the metal is damp. No where else.

 

We have different cabs. I bet yours may be coming from the door gaskets. I had a separate leak after addressing my rear window gasket. The side rear doors had organic debris build up causing damming at a tab insertion. Yours may be different.

Won’t hurt for anybody to gently pull their gaskets back and clean out the years of gunk built up in there. Wash with soapy water and dry. I sprayed mine all over after with PB Silicone with Teflon to refresh and add some fluffiness. They like the waterproof spray.

Check my build page for ideas.

 

There was discussion earlier about an URD simulator. Didn't know what that was so after a quick google-fu sesh. I found the website, and then found one for my truck/engine.

$120. Plug, and play rear 02 sensor signal conditioner.

Looks like a cheaper, and easier alternative than replacing my catalytic converter.

https://www.urdusa.com/urd-rear-o2-simulator-5vz-fe-3-4l-v6/

 

Also. Urd has magnuson super chargers?

Just shy of 5k? Fuck, I'd rather have a new frame.

Also, they have upgraded fuel pumps?

People really out here wilin out with these engines? Shidddd

 

Yeah. The cost of a Supercharger is nuts plus all the shtuff I’d break (my transmission) with the extra power keep me at bay on that.

I’m wondering about that Fuel Pump Upgrade as Denso make a damn fine Fuel Pump already. The computer regulates the flow. Whats the benefit of this URD? I might go study.

 

If you can figure it out, I might join you. I already know how to pull the bed

My guess is that you need extra liters per hour if running a SC, or other big power/big fuel use upgrade.


Not sure our use requires it. We basically use ours as commuters. We aren't serious off roaders like others here.

Edit: spelling. Changed ours from purs

 

Yeah. I just looked around quickly. The URD is for all types 4.7 Engine and is a partial ‘rebuild’ kit allowing the later 1st Gens to have a Fuel Filter. ($185)

The New OEM Denso Fuel Pump ($260) is for all engines plus the Toy Super Charger. I’ll stick with Denso Complete Kit Plug and Play if I am doing all that work to get it in there. Plus, my 2002 comes with a Fuel Filter .

 

Noted. Good quick google-fu.

I've been thinking about fuel folter occasionally as it wafts into the ether of my brain juices. What's the reccomended TOY replacement interval?

 

I’ve never seen one posted, but 30-40k miles sounds fair. I’m on my 4th Filter with 170k. This one is due for replace in about 5-10k miles.

 

Well, shit... I may have found myself an expensive rabbit hole...

Light weight aluminum crankshaft pulley. $199
Website says that the stock pulley weighs 10 pounds. Claims this pulley weighs 2 LBS, 9 OZ. Thats a big drop in need heavy thing spun real fast. Worth it?

160 Degree Performance Thermostat with gasket. $50

Whats the benefit of thermostat opening sooner? Just warms up the engine quicker?

Detroit True Trac Limited Slip Differential for Toyota 8.4″ rear
$525.00

Says it fits all FGTs

Edit: I don't understand the point of a 7th injector upgrade unless its inside the intake manifold, or something. That's the only way I see one of those getting extra petrol to all cylinders.

 

I was looking at the color codes for our trucks. I have never seen a First Gen in this color-autumn red mica. Almost looks copper. They only made it in 2000.

Anyone ever seen one like this?

 

Never seen it, but looks nice!

This... doesn't look so nice. Royal POS, but rear door measures pretty close to the other one.




It does have one nice feature that I'd like to retain if possible.

 

You upgrade the fuel pump to feed your high flow injectors that are directed by your upgraded computer. Then you get to upgrade the exhaust. hopefully you upgraded the brakes first before making it faster. Deep rabbit hole.

 

Eff that. Also, eff rivets. Not my cup of tea. Nuts, and bolts kinda guy.



Not sure how im going to fix the rusted gas struts mounts, or the warps in the aluminum housing, but I'll get there.

 

So how'd this go? Is it all yours?

 

If you feel confident water isn't getting in the back window & rolling forward along the metal floor & wicking up, or from the D pillar down & across to here, if you are confident it is from humidity - perhaps the simplest solution is to put small vents into the area. Like a round soffit vent, but a very small one on each end, or on in the front into the cab Vent each box to let the humidity/damp into the cab.

 

Crankshaft pulley, maybe? Not really going to hurt anything other than your wallet.

160 thermostat, no benefit on a stock truck and you'll end up running rich most of the time as the engine tries to reach temperature.

Extra injector isn't necessary outside of boosted applications, just adds more fuel to compensate for the boost. URD's I believe mounts in the intake stream to pull it to all cylinders.

 

Yep, 5vz....I don't think any Toyota with a 4cyl ever came factory with a locker...there are rare TRD OR Tacoma 4cyl...but they don't come with lockers.

 

So many of you guys see nice looking trucks, here's an example of a normal rust belt truck. At least it's reasonably priced.

 

Well, the other window didn't fit in my good shell. So now I have one potential lawn mower shed from redneckistan, and plexi-glass in the works...

So much for being cheap. Lol at least I can still be cheap-ish.

 

I don't understand people. I would have to actually force myself to treat a vehicle that badly. How does one not even bother to replace a seat adjustment handle?