0W-20 Engine oil Brand Suggestions

Hope this doesn't count as thread hijacking....

Mobil 1 seams to be the popular choice...I remember a post or 2 suggesting not to use "Mobil 1 0w20 Advanced Fuel Economy"

The reason I ask is "Advanced Fuel Economy" seems to be the only 0w20 I can find in my area...

Which 0w20 Mobil 1 should is better to use? Thanks for the help!

 

Now that’s funny! At 8 qts/oil change x 1 oil change / 10,000 mi - that should last you 112,500 miles!

 

Well .. to calm my wife down, the 20 grade fits both our cars. So that mileage/2 cars. I'm probably good for the next 3/4 years paying just for filters and my time.

 

Same here I have a Lexus RX350 and ironically between the 8.5 qts for the Tundra and the 6.5 qts for the Lexus, I use exactly 15 qts total when I change the oil for both cars.

Thankfully Toyota/Lexus oil specs are the same!

 

I saw someone go 23k and got the oil analyzed by Blackstone and the oil is still good! https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-filter-change-23k-miles-one-year-updated.37158/

I use Pennzoil 0w20 high mileage, have 3 5qt jugs remaining. but recently bought 6 5qt jugs of valvoline 0w20 at $11 per jug I'll be using that after I finish my Pennzoil.

 

Used it on mine for first oil change. it's like $21.75 for 5 quarts at walmart with a $10 rebate for every 5 quarts up to 4 times. so you can get 20 quarts for around $48. Can't beat that. I think the mobil 1 advanced fuel economy is ever thinner than regular 0w-20 because it has less additives in it. I've read a lot of people that use it that get engine knocking. My toyota dealership won't sell toyota oil, so I think the shell rotella gas truck is great, especially for the price.

 

I disagree depending on your mileage and how you drive. I use Amsoil because i drive about 10k miles a month and if i were using regular oil (mobil 1 is what i used to use) i was changing my oil every other week and that is such a hassle. After much investigating and studying reports I found that the amsoil is worth the premium price as you can run it longer thus less oil changes and more saturdays i have to spend with the fam. Just preference if you don't do that much driving then you would be fine with M1 which is great oil just doesn't last as long as amsoil.

 

Mobil 1 EP.

 

The only real way to see what oil is working the best for your motor and how many miles you can run on said oil is to do proper oil testing. Blackstone labs is a popular one.

Other than that, do whatever gives you the tinglies. We all have our biases and loyalties.

 

I've always used Mobil-1, but I'll be changing the oil in my 2010 with Kirkland 0W-20 next week. I'll let you know if my engine blows.

 

Just for the record, I believe "Toyota Oil" is made by Mobil. And I've used nothing but Mobil synthetic oil and Toyota filters in all my Toyota's , and as of now my 2003 Highlander V6 4 wheel drive,( I bought new, nobody's touched it, but me, Sorry Toyota Service Dept.) has 345,000 miles, and still Purrs like a Kitten, runs perfect, everything works, etc, use it 4 days a week (about 400 miles ) saves the mileage on my 2016 Sequoia.

 

It is. It is Mobil Super Synthetic with Toyota's specific add pack mixed in.

 

Many are using Mobil 1 but which one? There seem to be so many types of their oil.

 

Yup I know a nut on TR4.org that does 30K OCIs!! He also tested his oil via blackstone at the 10 and 20K mark, both tests told him to 'keep going'. I couldn't sleep at night with those OCIs.

I like this stuff and I use it (different weights some times on different vehicles) on vehicles with less than 75K miles on them. Luck and enjoy those Toyotas. https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil/mobil-full-synthetic-high-mileage or https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-extended-performance-high-mileage

Mobil Oil specs sheet: https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

Luckily we all have many, many good choices and few genuinely poor ones.

: ^ )))

 

Y’all can’t convince me to change my oil at 5k just like I can’t convince y’all to go 10k or more.


Based on my life experiences and knowledge I cannot justify it. To each his own.

Joe S

 

After a bunch of online reading I have narrowed it down to OEM OIL, Mobil 1 EP high Mileage, and amsoil OE.
I do oil every six months or 5k. Never hit 5k in 6 months. I figure in that short of time and mileage just about any 0-20 synthetic would do though.

 

Amazon Basics. Use the search feature next time. This is just another oil thread that should've been DoA.

 

My point is no one should come on here and suggest that a certain type of oil is allowing them to go double the manufactures interval without providing any background. If someone that starts their truck every morning and drives 2 miles and shuts it off tries to go 20k miles between oil changes they will probably be doing more engine swaps than oil changes. Many factors effect how long your oil will last. Climate, fuel type, driving style, towing, etc....

 

So let me get this straight.

Do you blend the oils above for a 'super' formulation of your choosing? I do, just not those particular 3. But I like blending....

 

Being a machinist , and knowing about tolerances of engines, I would STRONGLY suggest, not mixing, changing,etc. anything but what Toyota recommends, as far as oil weight goes. For example my 2003 Highlander (V-6) calls for 5W-30 (on the oil fill cap) but my 2016 Sequoia calls for 0W-20.(on the oil fill cap). So I don't want to put 5W-20,5W-30,10W-30,etc.or anything else besides 0W-20, because the tolerances of the oil passages, through out the motor, are designed for a specific weight oil to pass thru. So starting your truck, when its cold outside , with a 5W, or 10W weight oil, in a motor designed for 0W, your not getting any oil thru the engine, for a few moments at start-up, because the oil is too thick, and can't get thru, the smaller oil passages, around all the bearings, etc. which in turn is prematurely wearing out your motor. and the same principle applies to the other side of the oil weight spectrum. hopes this helps decide, on the oil issue.

 

mobil 1 extended performance

 

let us have a decent discussion right here. no need to go else where.

 

Absolutely lol. I even throw a can of bg moa in there.

 

I only run She’ll gas in my vehicles so now that I have a truck, I’d figure I’d go with the Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20. Cheaper than Mobil that I’ve bought all my life and thought it was time to try something new for comparisons sake. I’d hate to die and say I’ve only been with one oil.

 

I would suggest that "clearances" are a more appropriate term than "tolerances" in describing oil passages. Modern engines do have (from what I have read) tighter clearances allowing for the use of thinner oils, decreasing friction drag.

Dan

 

I like to run a higher tbn oil because I idle a lot.all three oils I mentioned have a tbn above 10.

 

My question here is this. If they clearances are so tight then why would 20W oil flow through them just as well as a hypothetical 0w on a cold start? I get that on a cold start up the 0w oil will flow fastest, but when the oil is hot it should be acting like 20w. So by this logic it should be struggling to get oil when we start up a motor with hot oil in the pan right?

 

Oil is more viscous at the temperature drops. In fact, the viscosity doubles for every 10C drop in temp (approximately). That means your 10x more viscous at cold start (around freezing) then full operating temperature. If the clearances were much tighter, then a low viscosity would would have just as much drag as a higher viscosity oil at a normal clearances. You would not save fuel this way.

The truth is clearances are not that much different than 20 years ago. Oils are better, additives are better, uniformity of machining is much better.

The W in an oil label does not actually mean weight. The W means winter which tells you how it flows at 0C. A 0W-20 means it flows like a 0 weight at 0C which is still a lot more viscous than a 20 weight at 100C.

If you look up Mobil 0W-20 these are the viscosity specs...

100C the viscosity is 8.7
40C the viscosity is 44.8
0C they don’t list it but it will be in the hundreds.

0w-20 is best thought of as a balance between efficiency (low pumping loss) and protection (good enough). A thicker oil leans towards protection while a thinner oil leans towards efficiency. If they machined the tolerances tighter, you would not save on pumping losses.

 

So how much more "efficiency" are we really getting with 0-20 over 5-30? Is it really worth it? Are we talking one-tenth of a MPG?