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06 DC Daily Driver

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by MrDirtjumper, Jun 26, 2019.

  1. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:32 PM
    #1
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    Thought it was time I start a build thread just to keep up with everything. Currently there isn't too much to note but I have done a few mods that are pretty unique and figured some might be interested.

    06 DC TRD 2wd. Bought in 2012 the day after the original owner traded it in with 9X,XXX original miles. Unreal how amazingly well maintained it was with all service records. A beautiful, rust free, non-abused, West-Texas truck.


    I had a solid decade in the 12 volt industry before I decided to change my career path. I guess this explains why most of my current mods are on the electrical side of things. Going back to school has really put a damper on the pocketbook but the plan is to have this truck around for another decade at least. We'll see how much I end up spending on mods trying to keep me interested. My biggest regret is that the truck isnt 4wd but I've done tons of research and that may change in a few years.

    Wheels and tires:
    - 285/70r17 Cooper ATP
    - Stock 17x7.5's and like 9000 fkn center caps
    - Spidertrax 1.25" spacers all around

    Suspension:
    - 2" unknown spacer up front when I bought it
    - Steering rack & sway bar bushings replaced with Energy Suspension

    Performance:
    - Charcoal filter removed from air box.
    - Extended rear diff breather
    - DuraGo/Amazon front rotors

    Exterior/lighting:
    - New CAPA TYC headlight lenses
    - Fog light mod
    - Dome light jumper mod
    - Phillips CrystalVision Ultra bulbs
    - El Cheapo Amazon replacement tailgate handle
    - Line-X w/ Toyota logo (original owner)
    - Some terrible steps that I cant bring myself to remove
    - Hideous bug guard that has scratched the hood so bad that I cant remove it (GONE!)
    - Plasti Dipped chrome grille strips and mirror caps.

    Interior/tunes:
    - Weathertech front/rear
    - Factory steering wheel audio controls added
    - Pioneer MVH-300EX
    - Polk Dx 6.5's F/R
    - Skar Audio IX-8 dual 2ohm
    - Parts-express.com 100w @ 1ohm Kicker factory replacement amp. $20 score

    Security/Convenience
    - Viper 5901 Remote Start/keyless/security
    - Rear window roll down from key fob
    - DEI 2102t Proximity unlock add-on
    - Easyguard ES002-P2 Push-To-Start
    - Prius keyfob



    And as she sits now:
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  2. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #2
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    Reserved for Wheel/Tire upgrades

    Currently running 285/70/R17 Cooper ATP. I had some solid rub at full lock on the frame and UCA when they were first installed. Just kinda sucked it up and lived with it because I was terrified of spacers. Made the mistake and went with some Amazon cheapos originally and ended up sending them back because of vibrations that I was unable to accept. Got 2 sets of Spidertrax and have never looked back.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  3. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #3
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    First Name:
    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    07/06/19

    Did the Hellwig 991 add a leaf over the weekend. I chose the Hellwig over the Wheelers due to them being adjustable. I took before pictures of the height and with the springs at their tightest, I get almost dead on 1” lift. Personally I ended up backing them off a bit in order to have the truck sit level. I didn’t really notice any difference in ride quality but I did notice that the whole rear of the truck feels stiffer.

    I think I’m going to end up hacking about an inch off of the threads on the front “shackle” just because of how ridiculous it looks.





    Replaced the factory rear shocks with KYB Gas-A-Just. They were stupid cheap and this truck doesnt really see much wheeling at the moment. Did rear shoes as well.

     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2019
    SprinterAE86 likes this.
  4. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #4
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    - Replaced the PCV valve at 160,xxx.

    - Pulled the entire throttle body off and cleaned it. Cant believe how much carbon was built up in there.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  5. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:34 PM
    #5
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    Reserved for exterior upgrades

    Thought this was a cool touch the original owner had done:


    08/06/19
    Had a rock fly off a passing 18 wheeler, caught up to the truck and got their number. Waited about an hour until I cooled off and called the company, guy says, "Sure, get a quote and we'll cut you a check." Picked up a new set of CAPA certified from Rock Auto.

     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2019
    00TundraZ likes this.
  6. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:35 PM
    #6
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Male
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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    Reserved for interior/tunes/keyless/convenience stuff.

    If you have any questions on how to do any of this stuff feel free to ask me. If there is enough interest in something I may look into doing a how-to later on.

    Audio:

    So the breakdown on the audio is that I scored this factory replacement amp several years ago on parts-xpress.com for $20. I believe its a direct replacement for the factory sub on a 06ish Charger/300. It has 7 wires in the plug in harness: (+) 12v, (-), 12v switched, and low level inputs. Cut the harness off, splice on some RCA cables and you have an amp thats smaller than your average book that will do 100w rms, roughly 200w max @ 1 ohm. A steal if you can find a sub that will fit in our trucks that is 1 ohm stable... Enter the Amazon special Skar. 2ohm DVC means I can parallel it to 1 ohm and its $40.

    Kicker Factory Amp:


    I pulled my carpet out of the underseat storage, Dynamatted the storage cubby sealed, build a lid that will recess the sub and boom... Solid thump for under $100. It wont win any competitions but its discrete, reliable, cheap and sounds light-years better than any of the "factory fit - powered sub" options that I installed for far too many people over the years. Oh and did I mention that the amp only needs 14a max so it can wire into the ignition harness (properly fused) and can hide behind the A/C controls?

    Skar Sub before the lid was carpeted:


    Head unit wise I have been an audio snob my entire life and set every vehicle I've had up with stupid complex EQ's and never listened to any media that wasn't loss-less blah blah blah...

    This time, I just wanted a simple head unit that would give me control of the sub, retain my steering wheel controls, and would resume playing my Spotify when I started the truck without taking my fkn phone out of my pocket. My jeans are getting tighter by the day and I hate having to do the "cant quite reach into my pocket while sitting shuffle". If you can deal with only digital music and no CD's then this Pioneer MVH-300Ex is under $200 and is an absolute steal.

    Pioneer:


    As for the steering wheel controls, I found the buttons on Ebay for $30ish, and installed them to work with the factory radio long before I changed out my head-unit. 2 bolts to remove the airbag, they plug into the wheel side of the clock spring and you need to run 3 wires from the column side of the clock spring to the factory radio. Mount them to the wheel with I think a few 10mm bolts, carefully trim some excess plastic off of the airbag cover, and its like they were meant to be there. Sorry if this is super vague, this was the very first thing I did when I got the truck back in 2012. I can dig around and see if I have any pictures as to what pins you need to connect to on the factory radio if this has any interest.

    Factory SWC w/cut airbag cover:



    Push-to-start and other convenience stuff:

    Ill explain all of this in more detail if requested but for a quick explanation, I originally installed a Viper 5901 system. For $20 the DEI add on module plugs into the D2D port of this system and you run an antenna into each of your B-pillars. These antenna detect the fob and disarm the system whenever you get within range and arm whenever it is out of range. Sticking with the whole "I dont like a lot of shit in my pockets" theme, I leaned towards only carrying the small fob and leaving my whole keychain in the center console lid. Super sweet idea... until the fob battery dies. So I tore down the DEI fob and whittled on an empty Prius fob until the entire circuit board fit inside. I had my trusty local locksmith cut the key blank to my truck and now I can never be locked out even if the battery dies. None of the buttons on the Prius fob are functional, but all I need to do is walk near the truck and my doors instantly unlock.

    DEI 2102 fob:


    Modified Prius Keyfob to house DEI remote w/ cut key:


    The push button start was the thing that I was, without a doubt, the most skeptical about doing to my truck. But after a solid year plus of use, I can honestly say that it is the single most awesome thing that I have ever done. If anyone owns another PTS vehicle they know how freaking killer this feature is. Because once again man, fucking pockets. Ill fill in a little more about what all went into this soon.

    Easyguard P-T-S:
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2019
  7. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:59 PM
    #7
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Erik
    TN
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    2002 SR5 4x4 AC
    ICON, SPC UCA's, SCS Ray 10's
    Very cool. I like the push button start.
     
  8. Jun 26, 2019 at 12:59 PM
    #8
    TylerDurden311

    TylerDurden311 Paper Street

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    Nice upgrades!
     
  9. Jun 26, 2019 at 1:00 PM
    #9
    TokerJoker

    TokerJoker If it's worth trying, try it!

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    2014 Black SR5 4.6 Dbl Cab
    None.....yet
    Howdy from DFW and nice truck :thumbsup:
     
  10. Jun 26, 2019 at 1:03 PM
    #10
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
    Slam Angelo, Texas
    Vehicle:
    06 DC TRD
    Thanks, I bought the wife something new a while back that had the Prox key and once I got used to only having one key fob and never having to fight through pockets, I knew I had to figure out a way to do it on my own truck.

    It would be much, much easier to do it from scratch with an all in one system but since I already had the Viper RSKE, I had to get a little inventive.
     
  11. Jun 26, 2019 at 2:42 PM
    #11
    because_wumbo-truck

    because_wumbo-truck TTC#036 & 1st Degenerate

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    Houston, Texas
    Vehicle:
    2006 AC Tundra Limited 4x4 v8
    flowmaster 40, DDI injectors, sliders, bumper
    Great start and sweet upgrades
     
  12. Aug 22, 2019 at 1:11 PM
    #12
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
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    06 DC TRD
    Been a while since Ive updated this. Here is a before and after of the Spidertrax 1.25"

     
  13. Sep 7, 2019 at 1:06 AM
    #13
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Found an old pic from almost when I bought her. Co-pilot is a little bigger now.


    Dog, not the wife. Here he is illegally crossing the Rio Grande.


    Somewhere around Lajitas

     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
  14. Sep 7, 2019 at 1:07 AM
    #14
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    06 DC TRD
    Thought she looked pretty the other day.

     
  15. Sep 7, 2019 at 1:30 AM
    #15
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    Josh
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    06 DC TRD
    If you aint ever spent a weekend down in old Mexico, you boys aint lived.




     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
    georgiey22 and KarmaKannon like this.
  16. Feb 10, 2020 at 9:46 AM
    #16
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper [OP] New(ish) Member

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    06 DC TRD
    Focusing on interior lighting, I have decided to rid the truck of all the green lighting and replace all of the old incandescent bulbs with LED's.

    For the gauges, I took a little inspiration from @Casper421 and his post in the "What have you done to your 1st gen today" thread. Located here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-158#post-1058046

    Of course I didnt take any pictures while I was doing this but check out the post above and a few pages following it, several users documented it pretty well.

    My first recommendation before attempting this is to become extremely familiar with where your gauges sit at idle. Im talking voltage, oil pressure, temp, tach, all of it. You're going to have to remove the gauge needles themselves and its very important to know where to put them back. I started my truck, let it warm up and took pictures from multiple angles showing where the needles sat.

    Disassembly:
    1) Take off the gauge trim that surrounds the gauges. There are (2) Phillips screws that aim towards the roof. Then apply your parking brake, shift the truck to low gear, tilt the steering wheel down and remove this panel. The right side of the knee bolster that surrounds your key overlaps this panel so be sure to pull back on that before yanking away.

    2) (4) Phillips screws hold the actual gauge assembly in place. (2) up top and (2) in the bottom. remove those and pull the gauges towards you. At this point I usually turn my truck off and shift back to park because I don't ever like unplugging anything with the ignition on. You can then reach behind the gauge assembly and unplug the driver side first, then the longer plug closer to the radio.

    3) Now that the whole assembly is out, you'll need to remove the clear cover which is fastened down with little angled pressure clips. Simply push each one down and pull the clear cover away. Be extremely careful and try to do this uniformly as this appears to be acrylic and is likely to crack very easily. Once this is off there is another trim piece that sort of "frames" each gauge that is held on with the same style clips. Do this around the whole assembly and once that is removed now you should be down to the flimsy gauge face that needs to be sanded.

    4) This gauge face is held on by tiny little alignment tabs around the perimeter as well as the needles themselves. I thought it would be glued down but it is not. This is the thing that says "This area no visible" and "1 mile = 20xx rev". At this point I recommend angering your significant other and using a dinner fork to pry the needles off of their posts. If you're like me and get tired of reading, and feel like you can figure the rest out from here, STOP AND READ THIS. I recommend leaving the needles off until you can take the assembly back out to the truck and install them with it running. Also DO NOT push the needles back on without first inserting the fork behind them. This keeps them from rubbing on the gauge faces and also allows you to remove them easily when you don't get them lined up correctly the first time. Trust me, you wont.

    5) Remove the gauge faces and wet sand the green/white print off the backs of the ones you no longer want to be green. I used 600 grit since it was all that I had but I believe Casper used 400. Maybe it was a little tougher but it worked and I'm happy with it. I tried to get into every corner and get rid of all of the green that I could, but once I started removing some of the black, I stopped. Some slight hits of green may be left behind but I couldn't notice it once finished. Once you do it, you'll understand what I'm talking about.

    6) Clean the gauge faces up with plenty of water and let them dry thoroughly. Its much easier to make sure they are clean now than to do this over again because of that one little spot that bothers you til the day you die.

    7) Reassemble the whole gauge assembly except for the needles and the clear piece.

    8) Take it to your truck, plug it in, crank it up and re-insert your needles back on their posts. Remember to, quite literally, stick a fork behind them so that they don't rub and also for easy removal. Now repeat this step over and over again because when you push the needles down, they somehow rotate on the shafts and you know your truck isn't idling at 200 rpm.

    9) After that, pop the clear cover back on, reassemble the truck and bask in the wonder that is beautiful, white light.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
  17. Feb 10, 2020 at 9:19 PM
    #17
    empty_lord

    empty_lord New Member

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    Have you replaced the bulbs in the switchs yet? im trying to find the neowedge size for the heated mirror switch and what not.
     
  18. Feb 11, 2020 at 3:50 AM
    #18
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Fleming Island, Fl
    Vehicle:
    2020 Toyota Tundra SR5 DC 4x4
    TRD Ft/Rr Sway Bars, Bilstein 5100, Tuff Country 2" leveler wt DD, Firestone Ride Rite, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, Pathfinder 275.65.18 A/T, Leer topper, BedRug, LED upgrades, TRD shift knob, Black out emblems, color keyed bumper ends, side mirror caps, bulge and grill, Toyota all weather floor mat, Coverking neosupreme seat cover, etc.
    I am having '05/06 envy right now.
     

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