Oil change tips

Negative on the ATF....That's an old school trick from back in the day.
I use Mobile-1 0W-20 like the book says.
Filter is on you, but it is a cartridge type not your typical screw on filter.
You do need the filter wrench as well as a new oil pan washer and all the rubber washers that come with the filter.
DO NOT reuse the old washers.
There are plenty of videos on YouTube that will show you the step by step for an oil change.
Good Luck and God Speed young man!!!

 

So if I get the Fumoto, I obviously can only install this once I've pulled the drain plug the first time. So install that, use the lever clip to lock it in during driving. Do I still need that oil filter drain, or just add the hose to the fumoto? Or does the oil filter drain hose go to something else?

 

That's why I was asking about the ATF fluid. He uses it and I'm just like.. ooook. Ha.

 

If you plan on doing oil changes for the long term, you may consider getting this with a fumoto valve for the filter also:

https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

 

How many QTs should I need of the oil?

 

8 qts

 

Have you looked at the YouTube video's yet??

 

Nope, I can't, I'm still at work, ha. We can't go to YouTube.

 

Agreed!!

The ATF thing is very old school. A lot of early model Miata owners do it once in awhile because the lifters are very sensitive to oil changes and tend to not pump up if you neglect to change the oil. ATF WILL clean the heck out of the inside of the engine though.

Look up "2 twisty flush" for more info.

 

You still need the plastic tool to drain the oil out of the filter location and it will come with the factory filter . The tube is for the fumoto valve IF you want it. I am lifted and didn’t use the tube. I can just sit under my truck and adjust the drain pan... can’t speak for stock guys.

There is a sweet YouTube video that shows you stick the plastic tool into the filter then use an empty bottle(video shows Vodka I think) and that will save from a huge mess from the filter drain.

You can do the fumoto later. It’s just a nice piece to have not a requirement.

 

When you get a chance, look at the vid. It will explain a lot of what everyone is trying to impart to you. An oil change in a Tundra is a bit more tricky and complicated than you would imagine. Once you see the vid, all this will make much more sense.

 

Yeah, it's beginning to all seem a little too crazy. Humm..

 

Hahaha.....I've got several oil changes under my belt and all this talk is confusing me.....LOL! Let us know how it goes when you get to it. Oh, and let us know how your father-in-law responds to the oil change. I'm sure there will be several choice words and some head scratching......possibly even a WTF or two!

 

Follow torque specs. Be prepared to mess up the ribs on filter cap when removing. But a metal one.

 

I used amsoil filters and their signature grade. Change both o rings. And a filter wrench won't do shit but piss you off. Get a good cap socket. If the last guy that changed it torqued it down too much there' a ood chance you'l snap a rib on the filter cap. And it will leak. Be ready to call Toyota for another or have one in hand.

 

Changed the oil today and was very easy! I was afraid to tackle it based on what everyone said but it was simple. Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

Oh hell no! Transmission fluid is way too thin. My father has owned his own shop for forty plus years and never did anything like that

 

I was worried all those suggestions to put extra stuff on the vehicle would scare you away! (You don't really need them.)

My only suggestion is to always use good oil filter...I always pick up the OEM's at the dealer because if you buy 3 it's only $12 (Used to be $10 but still a good deal for OEM) Don't EVER buy Fram filters.

 

Lots of good advice here. Bottom-line is to use a quality filter and the correct viscosity synthetic oil (I only use Mobil 1 in all our vehicles and I think that is what the Toyota dealer uses).

One thing I like to add is to make sure your oil is at operating temperature and change it as soon as you can after turning the engine off, that way if there are any contaminants they are still suspended in the oil and drain out. Since my truck is under Toyota Care I will use the dealer but will make an appointment and will show up shortly before the scheduled time and my oil will be hot.

 

Never had a Fumoto valve or similar device, I imagine it will come in handy. Unless the vehicle is under warranty I do my own oil changes and burned my fingers many time using my method.

 

No, never heard of this.

 

So I’m in the middle of my oil change , purchased the metal oil filter housing off Amazon. There is a difference in heights of the vent tube inside my new housing. Do I need to swap the tube from my old plastic housing? Not trying to have any leaks, it looks like a simple deal if necessary. Anyone else have this issue?

 

You definitely need to change the tube over. It has to match the length of your filter.

 

The one you bought is for smaller Toyota engines. My wife’s Highlander has that exact canister.

 

Yeah I think they put it on the Venza too. Same canister you just need to swap the tubes.

 

Back in the '40s (and maybe the '60s) and before, oil was a bit of a crap shoot. Valvoline and Amalie were paraffin based and would quickly gum up an engine. I helped tear down an engine once that ran Valvoline exclusively and was religiously changed every 3000 miles. We had to use putty knives to scrape out the crud. The old mechanic I was helping said he'd seen that on every Valvoline and Amalie engine. Lots of tricks were used to prevent that. Some would even drain the crank case and fill it with diesel or kerosene once a year and use that to clean the sludge out of the engine. Now, modern oils have all of the detergents needed to prevent that. Adding transmission fluid just reduces the lubricating qualities of the oil, and will probably void the warranty if there's a problem.