Proper grease for driveline

I’m getting a lot of conflicting info.
I just greased my whole driveline with Lucas red n tacky, I see on a lot of forums people saying that it’s fine to use.
Just got back from 720 mile trip in my 1st gen this weekend.

seemed to do ok. I noticed about 5 times when going above 80, when I let of the gas there would be a clunk but I could never duplicate it.

Will the Lucas work or do I actually need something else?

 

Any grease is better than no grease, the first time. As long as you continue to use the grease you picked, you should have little to no issues.

If you mix the kinds of grease you use in your system, you're going to have big problems.

You jumped up and down on the tailgate after doing the slip yoke, yes? Bounce all the air out?

 

Believe the recommended is "moly-fortified NLGI 2 grease". Straight from the mega thread.

 

Ok ok so I will continue with the Lucas red and tacky. I did NOT jump up and down on the bumper, maybe that’s my issue?

 

It should be two types of grease, one moly NLGI 2 and the other standard grease. As proof, it’s completely documented in your owner’s manual.

 

Just like most other maintenance topics, it's covered in our community info/megathread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

• 4WD trucks have ample grease zerks on the driveline and need to be lubed with moly-fortified NLGI 2 grease every 5k-10k miles unless you like clunks/jolts when braking and accelerating. Note the slip yoke's zerk has a special fill process. If you've got no history on your truck, this is one of the first things you'll want to do. 2WD trucks lack grease zerks on the factory driveline.

and

• Driveline "clunks" when stopping and going: For 4WD trucks, you probably aren't lubing your driveline every 5k-10k miles as needed, see this reply (PS - this zerk requires special attention, see reply #4). For later-year 2WD trucks, there's a TSB out, the tranny crossmember can crack over time, then bolts loosen & fall out. Typical symptoms are clunks when turning, stopping, going. There's a specific TSB for the 2WD tranny mount problem, but it calls for replacing the crossmember, which many think is overkill unless clearly cracked (example here). If not cracked, retightening with a non-permanent thread sealer has worked.

Whilte Noah/T2 is technically correct, I'd be purging out the grease you put in and replacing with the correct grease. Easier to do with the u-joints, you can just pump until you don't see red, then wipe away the mess, but it'll be difficult as hell with the slip yoke, maybe pop off the zerk and jump up and down on the ass end of the truck, then reinstall the zerk, fill, then repeat 3-4 times?

You really should've read the manual before taking action.

While Bill is technically correct, "two types" both types recommended by Toyota are practically identical, with the only major difference I see being the 2nd one listed is moly-fortified. I couldn't even find a non-moly-fortified NLGI-2 lithium-base grease so I went with Valvoline's option:

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Yup, more zirks on that driveline than a teenager has zits. I hit them all with Lucas except the 4wd one. Shopping for a narrow grease gun attachment before I grind mine down because it won’t fit on the zirk.
I guess I better get the right stuff and do it again.
Thanks

 

Supposedly you can get to all of them if you approach from the correct angle. Which one are you having issues with exactly?

Lock-N-lube supposedly makes a thinner, longer attachment. You can order one through Lowes as an example.

https://locknlube.com/products/recessed-fitting-adapter?variant=12672169050167

 

The 4wd shaft up front there is one where I can’t attach the grease gun because the zirk is too low and it is obstructed by a ring. I saw on here someone ground the end of their grease gun down to access it

 

I think it is the far left “a” on shifty’s diagram

 

That topic is covered over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-with-greasing-front-4wd-driveshaft.152061/

Dude, you're not in new territory here. Any questions or problems you may be having, it's been covered. I applaud you for posting and asking for help, so don't get the wrong idea and think I'm getting on your case here. I'm not.

If 4WD is disengaged, as it should be when the truck is off, you should be able to hand-spin that front driveshaft to get more advantageous lock. My unmodified tip fits on it great.

 

Try coming in horizontally from the transmission side and turn the driveshaft so it lines up.

 

Dang. I knew this post was coming. I have no idea how you find these specific posts with all the good info. Whenever I search I don’t get them. I will make some effort to learn to use the site better, sorry to cause extra work and duplicate posts, I’m grateful for all the help

 

I have been driving FGT's for over a half million miles and I never paid any attention to what type of grease I used, just whatever was in my grease gun that I use to grease the pins on my excavator and loader. Usually greased the rear driveline every 50K miles and the front driveline every 100 K miles, have never had a U joint fail on a Tundra. From now on I'll jump up and down on the rear bumper afterwards just for kicks.
If you lift your truck and put monster tires on it you probably should service it 5 times as often as I do because of the additional stresses.

 

I grease mine at every oil change. My slip yoke seal is part of my anti-corrosion plan. It distributes the grease around the rear frame sections and gas tank for me.

 

Yea I use the Lucas on the tractor it’s all I have on hand.
Need to get the other with the molli next trip into town

 

I just read about a chick driving a model T around the world in the 20s; they used elephant fat for grease for a good while. I would do what the manual says but I have definitely been guilty of greasing with what I’ve got while I’m under there thinking about it!

 

I only use elephant fat for lovemaking, never on my Tundra.