What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You'll still have to do the occasional bump over stuff, but it's much less bucking and I've never snapped an axle on trail.

 

Honestly I think I’d probably make some ABS slurry and weld it shut now I’ve thought through it.

Good work! Remind me in an hour or two if I don’t post a part number. I’ll look it up.

Classic! Disaster averted. Glad I brought it up! We see this misrouting a lot….

 

I have seen it. Someone posted it a little while back. And I get it, I’m just trying to see where others have the same shocks adjusted to help me narrow down closer to where mine should be. I think mine have too much preload and may be close to top out but not positive. Regardless I think the rebound could be better on these. I think I’m going to have to lower mine back down but then I’m going to be close to hitting the wheel well again. I think it’s just going to take more tinkering and fine tuning.

 

Thanks for that.
Have you hit the wheel well liners at all? Mine have almost double the number of threads showing so I think I am probably topping out. I’m at 3” of lift in the front with just plates underneath; so maybe 100 pounds extra.
I had a ton of rake though. I think I need to remove my overload spring in the rear and lower the coilovers. That should take care of the ride and have me sitting level.

 

I believe the base part number is 90467-07041-XX

Where XX is your color code. Browns usually are E0/E1/E2/etc. and greys are usually B0/B1/B2/etc.

I looked for another tan 2002 VIN to run, it happened to be roughly the same color as @NickB_01TRD and @KNABORES on the outside and tan-looking-to-me interior. It showed 90467-07041-B7. You be the judge. Circling the part in the exploded, in case that's not the part, that circle shows you what I just looked up, where this clip goes. If it doesn't appear to be the right color, try the same part but ending with E0, then E1, then E2 etc. Hunt for pics of the part on fleaBay, it's a great place to see the actual parts. If nothing shows up for the part number you input, try removing the hyphens.

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Knocked up this Dale and Dale accessories platform for the passenger footwell. Should help keep him from bouncing off the dash so often.

 

This just fell out today...whoopsie. Took it for a drive, even on our track through some reaction drills. Feels the same driving on the street, highway, offramps. You can feel the added sway during reaction drills, but did not feel overly wobbly at all.


Finally opened the Coastal front and rear bumpers and inventoried all of the parts. Hoping to work on the front soon.


Got the Diode Dynamics SS3s and ARB Solis 21 (spot/fog combo) for the bumper. Still debating on whether to install the SS3s as pods or flush. Pros and cons for both. Ordered an Ironman Frontier 9500 winch. Looked into the 12000, but they were sold out. That's why god invented snatchblocks and physics.



Have I mentioned how much fun this set up is? Trailer is light and with the GX brake upgrade, I only turn the Redarc brake controller through steep mountain descents....although I wouldn't really need to.

 

Thank you sir, that does look pretty similar! I'll look them up and order. And yeah looking up parts on ebay or even oem genuine parts is what I've learned to do to find actual pictures since toyota doesn't really have them on theirs, unless occasionally some independent dealership websites do. I recently used ebay to see a picture and to make sure I ordered the correct matching missing mudflap (as there are a couple different variations) from toyota.

And the ABS slurry is a decent suggestion, I'll have to look into that further. But definitely happy with the results so far overall. Luckily the tape looks pretty inconspicuous and not that noticeable unless you look for it specifically.

 

Some info - you'd want to do about half of the amount of acetone per ABS so the slurry is thicker. Recommend a Mason jar with metal lid. The metal screen or any perforated mesh to provide structure under would be worthwhile (EDIT: Make sure it's real acetone you're using):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4LoMJGfhzg​

 

Regear and a rear locker will change your life

 

The limited slip does exactly what I want it to. I could benefit from a regear, but low priority lol.

 

You say that now. I thought so too.

 

I'd rather go long travel and get lighter wheels. haha

 

Best Repair Ever…. So I was setting aside $930 for new Toyota Lower Control arms w/ bushings already pressed in as well as new eccentrics sleeves bushings etc… and no telling how much for labor to replace Lower Control Arms when I kept running across folks saying “check the transmission mount bolts”. And that the clunking noise is often misdiagnosed as needing new LCA bushings. Sure enough, I only have 3 out of 4 bolts in place and all 3 were loose. As far as I could tell the cross member didn’t have any cracks. “Holy crap!” That horrible sound that I heard when breaking or slowly pulling in or out of my driveway, is gone!!! Now I can really enjoy my truck.

I do have a question, does this mean I need to order all 4 new bolts with washers or just the missing one? The TSB made it sound like the new bolts were different than the originals.

 

I think the TSB only calls for replacing the crossmember itself, but if I were doing it I would just replace the bolts and washers as well since they are fairly inexpensive.

 

I think you are right. I got confused after watching a YouTube video of a guy that had to replace the transmission mount bolts because the previous owner had put in some 3 inch bolts that didn’t fit properly.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1784#post-3415190

 

Yep. Tell us you didn't read THIS THREAD without actually telling us you haven't read THIS THREAD.

Dude. Go read that thread. Please. There's a reason so many other people know about this issue, and knew to repeatedly mention it in the threads you visited. You were literally prepared to spend $1,000 on stuff when the answer was right there in front of your face.

We jam that "megathread" down everyone's throat for a reason. We're not trying to be annoying. We're trying to give you the "lessons learned" from dozens or hundreds of people befor you, so you don't need to suffer the same pitfalls.

​

 

Don’t bust my balls too hard. I have read that thread soooooooo many times. Things don’t jump out at you some times. Hell, It was the suspension guys who thought it was passenger side LCA bushings making the noise. I’ve got so much info from you guys stored in my brain that I’m prepared for a million different scenarios if and when they occur. For some reason this one just wasn’t registering…. Lol

 

I just like busting balls!

It's a lot to take in. If I hadn't wasted so many weeks-worth-of-hours on this forum the last several years tossing out free help, I probably would've missed it also.

Really, I think the 2nd reply of that thread is probably the more-important one to read.

 

Nice, thanks for the info. And yeah after watching that, I agree--my thoughts were that I would probably need a mesh screen underneath to ensure full coverage of the hole I have (about .5 - 1 "). A part of me kind of wants to keep it taped so I can remove it when needed to clean the housing again whenever more debris gets in...did I just accidentally discover a new mod/hack?

 

I found a little upgrade while swapping out a wiper blade. I have the Bosch Icon blades which are 19" for our trucks. But it seems there is a lot of glass that gets missed. I tried using a larger blade and installed a 24" wiper blade on the passenger side of my DC. Works great!
I haven't tried but I am going to see about a 22" on the driver side.

I also dropped my truck off at the dealer to have my rear wheel bearing replaced and have them diagnose and repair my exhaust leak. Fingers crossed it's not as bad as I'm thinking. Just heard from the dealer actually. Said rear wheel bearing is a bit under $500 out the door. I'll take that all day!

 

It’s a late reply, but that (i’m guessing) 2x2 angle iron makes it difficult to bolt it down to the top of the bed rails. A stick of 2x3 would make is waaaay easier.

EDIT: or maybe it’s 3x4 that’s easier? I’d have to go double check

 

Hey @AmericanKing06 I got another question for you. I've been curious how much resistance there is with fresh wheel bearings when spinning the hubs? Do they spin easily a half dozen times like a bike wheel or are they still relatively stiff and maybe spin once or twice all the way around?

 

New driver side hubs, wheel bearings, spindle, and spindle gusset.

The Camburg slug that presses into the knuckle is a one piece that includes the lower misalignment spacer. Awful design. If the lip of the misalignment spacer starts chipping off you’re out for the whole entire kit. Slug, top misalignment spacer, bolt. $170….. spent a little more and got the solo Motorsports UCA to knuckle kit. 2 misalignment spacers and the slug for the knuckle. Swapped both sides and the truck drives smooth.

 

While cleaning up my AC, I measured the temp coming out the vents at around 50 degrees at the lowest and even warmer from the driver's side vent. Is this comparable/on par to most of yall?

 

What’s the ambient temp outside when you took the reading? That plays a big factor.

 

I usually get 41-44 after a deep coil cleaning as well as a new condenser, expansion valve, schraders, and fresh recharge. I've recorded 43 degrees with up to 118 degrees ambient temperature while the vehicle was in motion.

 

Only around 70 degrees or cooler outside. It blows pretty cool, but not as cold as it probably should. Been meaning to take to an AC specialist and probably vacuum/recharge or track down any potential leaks