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engine starts ,runs in reverse , dies when put in drive or 2 gear

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by tlass56, Apr 19, 2025.

  1. Apr 19, 2025 at 7:47 PM
    #1
    tlass56

    tlass56 [OP] New Member

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    I have a 2006 tundra limited 4.7 It will start in park (automatic)and stay running in reverse but dies quickly when put in drive or down into 2 gear. Also (1) this is nuts but it will start in Park with drivers door open but will die when I close the door with it still in Park. (2) will start in Park with door open but will die if I turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn.. adding to it if I have the drivers door open and power lock the doors the drivers door will lock and unlock but not the other 3 doors but if I close the drivers door and push the power door locks all four doors will lock and unlock.. I also had to unhook the horns because 75 % of the time when I open the drivers door (not locked) the horn will honk like an anti thief signal.. I had a auto tech that specializes in wiring issues in cars that have been in a wreck and are rebuilt, he is stumped and said all the wiring looks good and no codes using a top notch very expensive code reader.. I have tried a new starter relay didn't help, checked all the fuses that deal with the starting. NEED HELP
     
  2. Apr 19, 2025 at 7:58 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
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    Yup. We write about this in the “so you just bought a 1st gen” sticky thread, which lists all the stupid shit you need to know about owning a 1st gen Tundra.

    If you have no signs of aftermarket alarm, then it sounds like you’re our newest victim to “water damage in the fusebox”.

    Entry is often thru cracked windshield, rotten window surround or the A-pillar (via windshield trim holes, or rubber door seals).

    Taken from the thread I mentioned, note the last three picture links here:

    Occasionally, water trails down harnesses into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics, pics), or the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics) it happens a LOT.

    It’s also possible you have water leaking into the bulkhead of connectors under the driver kick panel. But usually when it’s multi-circuit stupidity like you’re referencing. It’s, like, quite often the exact problem you’ll see pics of above.

    If you do have signs of a dealer installed or aftermarket alarm, they usually start to get stupid after 10-15 years and could potentially cause all these issues.

    But until you can actually tell us what cab your truck is, we can’t help. That’s super important info. Different cab types are wired differently.
     
  3. Apr 19, 2025 at 8:03 PM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    Vehicle:
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    (see signature for truck info)
  4. Apr 20, 2025 at 7:12 AM
    #4
    tlass56

    tlass56 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks guys, I have a 2006 double cab (4 door) limited ,,
     
  5. Apr 20, 2025 at 8:13 AM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Any evidence of alarm ever being installed - i.e. signs of crimped wires under the driver's side of the dash, any surface-mount LED lights on/under the dash that don't look factory?
     
  6. Apr 20, 2025 at 12:51 PM
    #6
    tlass56

    tlass56 [OP] New Member

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    yep, it did have a aftermarket remote starter and door locks but these were removed after the problem started by the 1st mechanic. But I had his work check over by an auto tech that specializes in wiring issues in cars that have been in a wreck and are rebuilt and gave a thumbs up to the 1st mechanic that removed the auto start.
     
  7. Apr 20, 2025 at 3:35 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` Just like witches at black masses

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    (see signature for truck info)
    I'd still be suspicious. Did they remove all wiring hacks and relays from the doors? Typically with aftermarket systems, you'll use relays inside the doors to remotely control door locks and such.

    But anyway, even still. 100% my next course of action would be to pop out and inspect the fusebox for traces of green (oxidized copper) and rotten connectors on the back of the in-dash fusebox. Some pics of what others have found - like I said, very common issue, and because the internals of that fusebox are basically a logic board with traces, of sorts, corrosion will cause all kinds of weird results as circuits get bridged or rotten.

    It won't always be as obvious as these cases, but you probably DO NOT need to crack the fusebox in half unless you see green under some connectors like the first few pics - but also see the last three pics for a less-common case that still happens, where pins in one of the connectors right there will take on water from the windshield or A-pillar (I hope you're not one of those people who continues driving with a cracked windshield...) and rot out connectors. This is the kind of stuff I'd be looking for, since we KNOW it's pretty common, and not just for trucks that live outdoors (although it seems more common in those).















     
  8. Apr 20, 2025 at 7:07 PM
    #8
    tlass56

    tlass56 [OP] New Member

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    I'll check that out next time I get to where it's parked at about 150 miles away from home. should be in a couple days..
     

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