Build Thread: 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab

Thanks man, that's why I'm asking here. Always better to go slow, learn as much as one can, especially when entering a new area, before doing something not easily undone.

The life lessons no one gave me but I sure wish they had!

 

This is the video we normally show people with '05-'06 Tundra and Seqoia '05-'07 which have the sealed transmission. Drain and fill is your correct servicing. Else go to a BG Gold certified place and get the BG transmission service done every 75k. NEVER drop the trans pan unless you have a damn good reason. You DO NOT need to replace any filters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej_6BZpK3gg

 

PS - Scotty Kilmer is a fucking HACK. Do not listen to that piece of shit talking head, he's in it for the money. Many of his opinions are shit, founded on bullshit that's nowhere near reality. I've seen him contradict or waffle on stuff enough that ... I just can't handle the dude. Font of misinformation.

Trans flushes are typically fine as long as you're not using high pressure systems to push fluid thru the transmission. But they're overkill when you can drain/fill. I'd trust the Toyota dealership to get it right, but clarify if it's a drain/fill or a full flush. You're long overdue at 200k.

 

Anecdotal, but when I had the unfortunate experience of owning a Nissan CVT the dealerships near me didn't even offer flushes, just drain/fills. They claimed unless it was done consistently every 30k miles since new it would do more damage than good. This is probably because it was doomed to fail regardless so maybe the drain/fill was cheaper...You'll see a lot of controversy about flushes online, so why risk it? A drain/fill (especially a few over an interval) cant go tits up unless you measure the wrong amount of fluid.

 

That sentence explains the Nissan CVT in a nutshell.

I agree wholeheartedly with two things you've said here:

• The controversy about servicing transmission fluid on the internet is insane; people treat it like voodoo, and a TON of it is "I heard..." and "I read..." and "this one guy..." i.e. way too much indirect info. Which, don't get me wrong, can have its respective value, but in this case, it's taken transmission servicing to urban legend status, superstition, black magic fuckery.
• You can definitely screw up a few things with servicing, underfilling, not securing your drain/fill plugs, putting in the wrong amount of fluid, not knowing (w/sealed transmissions) how to properly check the fluid level, doing the maintenance on a non-level surface, using high pressure pumps to push fluid through the transmission... but generally speaking, drain/fill is no-brainer safe, and a flush can be safe if done by someone who knows what they're doing.

This is my take: https://www.tundras.com/posts/2975399

But we've had a few threads on it, here's some snippets:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/is-draining-refilling-automatic-transmission-fluid-important.115675/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tranny-flush.119731/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/is-this-a-companion-flange-potential-leak.94940/#post-2421798

Another case of a Scotty Gilmer "fan" being misled, man that guy is a fucking hack!: https://www.tundras.com/threads/jus...-reality-and-need-advice.137134/#post-3469311

https://www.tundras.com/threads/jus...-reality-and-need-advice.137134/#post-3469630

 

Oh gosh yes Shifty, it's worse than a "Chevy vs. Ford" thing.

 

Great video. Not sure of the check temperature difference though. In her video (and notes) she shows 97 - 115 degrees. 2005/06 Tundra FSM section A/T 5(6) for states 115 - 130 degrees. I waited until both of my AT1 and AT2 temps were in that range and then did the level check. Mine has the A750F transmission. Since she's doing the check part on a 2009 Taco with the A750E. I'm assuming that's the difference in the temp ranges.

 

Timmy shows other methods in videos from this reply: https://www.tundras.com/posts/2975437

 

Got the bill from the stealership. Fortunately I was holding onto something heavy and unlikely to tip over.

I never really wanted to have a savings account anyway.......LOL

Will drive down and have a chat with the mechanic about the tranny fluid change and make a decision. Once the Tundra is done I'll get her registered and insured and then buy a 2-axle trailer. It's nearly time to begin mowing and I need this set up mobile so I can well, pay for the setup!

Pics to follow once I see her.

 

If I know transmission fluid has been maintained and feel good about it's condition I'll do drain and refills. But recently what I've started doing on vehicle with unknown service history and/or high mileage is sucking out and refilling 1-2 qts at a time out the dipstick, every 1k-ish miles. Very safe way that takes away the argument of removing any "grit" the transmission is "used" to having too quickly. Regardless definitely no flushes.

 

I just wish the 2005-2006 with sealed transmission could be retrofitted with a dipstick to make that possible

 

Yeah but U’s got TPMS

 

Just so you and others know, the 03 FJ A750 came with a dripstick. Here's your parts list:
A750F for a 2003 land cruiser
35106-60160 pan
35013-60290 tube assembly
35103-60220 dipstick

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-dipstick-upgrade.750415/page-3#post-26731660

 

Ooof. Gotta change the pan

I know it's not a lot of work. And MSRP on the pan isn't bad (~$272, but goes on sale for ~$170 periodically).

You'd also want the gasket or proper FIPG.

 

Yeah, but wish granted

 

Yup, just edited my post to that effect while you were replying.

But one snag: It appears the Tube part is no longer available in USA. It also appears at the time of this reply, Amayama would have it in-stock as an assembly using the updated part number below, ~$55 with part and shipping. (Here's a reference from EPC)

All-in you could pull this off during a sale for less than $400. Maybe less than $250 with the 25% off sale. Parts, through my preferred vendor that doesn't charge tax or shipping for non-AL residents:

Pan: 35106-60160
Tube: 35013-60150
Dipstick: 35103-60220

Or you could just pilfer the parts from a 2002 Land Cruiser or LX 470 if the door sticker shows it's a A750F on the driver door sticker.

Pricing update on the two domestically-available parts, during the current national sale:

​

 

I MAY go get the Tundra tomorrow......I spent the day doing a ton of trimming for a lady. UGH! I need a better trimmer.

Anyway I'll be pretty sore so I think I'll pay off the ransom and check about getting the fluid changed.

Hope to be driving her soon.

 

For above your belly button or below?

 

LOL.

 

So many jokes!!!! Head exploding!!!!!

But seriously, hope you get it back soon. I got mine back yesterday after getting the pinion seal put in. They recommended a muffler shop to tackle the O2 sensors because they expected welding a new bung onto the exhaust because of the original rusted O2 sensors. Now to clean and seal up the diff cover where it is leaking from.

 

Well the King is free! His ransom is paid.

Temporary tag on there too. I've never ordered a vanity plate but one is inbound. (Biz name).

Based on advice given here and from the mechanic, went ahead and got a tranny flush and fluid change.

Truck seems to drive fine.

Noticed one "odd shift" on some short but steep up and down hills but that was it. I wasn't able to replicate that.

Parking brake still seems too loose so will call the shop about that tomorrow. Also have a loose bit of outside windshield trim, will try and get some pics up for advice.

Shop included all the original chassis and brake parts....those'll go into the scrap heap for the next junkyard run.

Oil change planned for tomorrow.

If things continue to go well, she should be pulling two zero turn mowers next week on a new 2-axle trailer.

 

Hmmm....how did the shop do?

Trugrade brand rack and pinion.

Duralast Gold cv axles.

I can call them tomorrow....I simply assumed a stealership would buy Toyota parts.

Thoughts?

 

Call. If they charged you Toyota pricing for shitty ass parts store parts, that a big fucking problem.

 

Yes, that would be a very big problem.

I will have a look tomorrow (if not tonight) and go through the receipts vs. OEM pricing online.

 

Is this a Toyota dealership thing on older cars? Use aftermarket parts over OEM?

 

Each dealer is an independent franchise. It's not going to be a manufacturer specific policy.

example: I work for Sam Pack d.b.a. Subaru. I do not work for Subaru.
example 2: Eric (the parts guy shifty loves) works for Serra d.b.a Toyota. Eric does not work for Toyota.

 

If they gave you back your OEM CVs, keep them and rebuild them and throw those Duralsts in the trash at the first boot crack. I'm tempted to rebuild my steering rack when the time comes. I already (accidently) have one of the large orifice bushings.

 

OEM non-reman were on back order last I checked. Remain are NLA. So this maybe been a matter of “not willing to wait for OEM part”.

 

I had a feeling this was a case of "getting the truck on the road."

For me, that's good. I'd rather have OEM parts all-round but I need the truck in service fast.

Is this the correct CV Axle part to replace both?

43430-0C010 - 2000-2007 Toyota - CV Axle (Left, Right, Front) | Sparks Parts

 

The Trugrade steering rack....how many can I expect out of that?