Another Cranks, Won't Start Issue

2005 Sequoia 4.7
Started my car one morning to warm up in the cold. It ran for about 45seconds then sputtered and died.

It will sputter and occasionally run when using starter fluid. Pump still worked but had very little pressure. Pressure showed 0 psi


New Fuel Pump installed, still cranks but won't start.


Fuel Pressure is 45psi now when cranking.
Has spark, so I assume crank sensor is good
Jumping 12v to pump/ c/opn relay will run fuel but won't start it
Bypassing Resistor doesn't help, Ohm reading in range
Tested and swapped C/OPN relay
Timing belt still intact
No codes on OBDII reader
Tried unplugging MAF. Cleaned it and Throttle Body
T/B will open when hitting the pedal


What else am I missing? Running out of things to test after searching this site and others the last few days

 

Crank position sensor is what signals the ECU to say, "I'm running", so the ECU knows it should keep the fuel pump on. If its harness gets rubbed thru by a belt or a pulley, the ECU won't allow the fuel pump to push gas, for obvious fiery death reasons. Did you verify the harness was routed correctly? Routing info HERE, note the correct routing is behind the A/C and fan clutch bracket, see all those nearby pulleys and such? Yeah, that's how and why the harness gets nicked, and people suddenly lose power to the pump, thus lose gas pumping.

If it currently sputters and runs with starter fluid, yeah, obviously getting spark, are you 100% certain you're getting gas, and it's in-time?

When you cleaned the throttle body, you didn't do anything crazy like spray cleaner directly into the throttle body, did you? And you used (specifically) throttle body cleaner? Not that I think it's related, just asking.

Have you verified the timing, just to be sure the belt didn't jump? This is the time of year in some places where squirrels are hiding acorns, and I've seen more than once where rodents either get pulled into the runnings, nest in the timing cover, or one where timing cover was full of nuts and made the truck jump time? Here's the site @BubbaW turned me onto that's probably the clearest newbie-friendly info I've seen on timing verification for the 2UZ-FE.

 

Wiring to crank sensor is fine.

Yes, fuel rail is getting 45psi of fuel

Being that it will occasionally try to start using fluid, I doubt it's anything timing related. I did pull off a cover and everything is intact and clean. No rodents to deal with round here currently

As you can see, I've gone thru several of the "obvious" issues already (lots of posts from you over the years Shifty)

 

Yeah, a lot of these come up. Did you try shifting to Neutral and starting? Shift to a non-standard gear and try starting? Did you review all the fuses in the engine bay to ensure nothing is blown?

In the community megathread there's a ton of issues, solutions etc. One bullet point related to electrical issues.

• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics), or into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

Next thing I'd be looking at is the ECU. Specifically the bolded text above, and if you click that link, you can see what you're looking for. Confirm the ECU is OK. Just b/c it looks OK doesn't mean it is. Of course, I'd be confirming all your engine bay grounds are intact, especially if you're in the rust belt.

Really, I know I comment on a lot of these no-start topics, but @BubbaW is, as I say often, the king of tracing this stuff out and giving diagnostic advice for tests to carry out. I really do struggle with the EWD for these vehicles.

 

Ooh, since I just stumbled across it, this was another good crank-no-start: https://www.tundras.com/threads/crank-no-start-diagnosing-and-solving.146559/

 

Still cranks, but wont start. It will only crank in P and N.

checked all fuses and relays

ECU looked brand new when I checked it. No water has been leaking in that area at all.
And I'm just an hour north of you in Georgia. No rust around the car. Car ran fine until I dumped trashy gas in the tank and killed the pump. New pump is pumping, but car wont crank.


ALL wiring is intact and in good shape

Crank Sensor ohm reading is in spec and plugs spark when removed and laid on valve cover
Fuel Pressure 40+ psi

I can smell/see fuel when cranking and plugs are getting wet


Still need some help here. So any ideas or tests to try are well appreciated.

 

Just for reference, how many miles on the Sequoia and last time the timing belt was changed ?

Yes you have but something is missing, I'm just not sure what. Very surprised their are no codes. You must have cleared codes after checking for spark but none since I suppose.

Even tho this is a Sequoia, it's same for Tundra. You can only crank if in P or N.

Where exactly ?

According to how "trashy" we're talking, you might need to clean it all out.

Easy for me to say but you may have to consider removing as much of that trashy fuel as possible and also replace the plugs.

Just to make sure....what ohm numbers are you seeing between the terminals....
According to Sequoia FSM if Cold.... 14-122 deg F , ohms should be 1630-2740.

Given you have good fuel pressure and spark but won't run, it speaks ignition or timing problem to me....in particular cam and crankshaft position sensors given the ECU uses their feedback for precise timing of piston movement to deliver spark at right moment.

 

Truck has 320k miles and I've got a rock auto kit to do the timing job, but the old one belt is very much still intact and not dry/cracked at all.

The wires to the crank sensor haven't been messed with, ARE fine and the sensor showed 1926 ohms which is in spec, like I said.

I have dropped the tank 2-3 times. It's been drained & clean. The fuel is fine.

 

Oh, ok.... hopefully that many miles it's not stretched and affecting timing.

Quite aware you said it was "in spec" and now that you've given a number, I'll concur.

That's very important info to share, for those that might wish to help ya

 

Car ran great before the fuel pump went out.

Any chance too much starting fluid fouled up the MAF enough to keep from starting? Unplugging it didn't make a difference

 

Unplugging MAF should not make a difference whether it runs or not, at least my 04 DC LTD still runs if I start with MAF unplugged. There are other sensors I have made note of that will not prevent my O4 from running. Of course, I knew what the affects would be with MAF unplugged....air-fuel ratio goes bonkers, among other things.

If you have a scan tool that reads live data, you would be able to see what the MAF reading is among other readings that would help while the key is in ON(ign on) only. I really don't believe starter fluid got to the MAF to harm it, IF you sprayed it into mouth of throttle body.

If I had your dilemma, I would be concerned I would need to check the fuel injectors(have a good spray or clogged from "trashy" gas), plugs that might have fouled and anything else that bad gas might affect.

 

You say it has spark and also has fuel.

time for a compression test

perhaps timing did jump.

 

Agreed.

If spark is confirmed on all cylinders
If fuel delivery is confirmed, and pressure is remotely OK (30+, should be ~45+ IIRC)
If air delivery is confirmed and MAF tests within spec (hard not to have it)

If we solely go with logic, without digging deeper on testing, it doesn't leave a lot of options beyond failed ECU/ECM, or spark isn't firing at the right time. You may be able to probe on the latter using ether/starting fluid, that stuff doesn't care about time, it'll ignite the moment the spark lights off.

 

Possibly, due to stretching, especially after 320K miles mentioned earlier.

 

Or the tensioner gets weak and allows the belt to jump