1st gen cab mounts

I began my project of replacing the cab mounts on my 2003 access cab. The plan is to do the 2 rear mounts and then the 2 front mounts on a later day. The radiator support mounts are in good shape so I won't replace those ones. The two 10mm bolts that hold that cab mounts to the frame come down from the top of the frame and thread into welded nuts on the bottom side of the frame pockets. I don't understand how you can remove those without lifting the entire cab up over the frame (atleast on the rear two mounts). You can hardly even get a box wrench in there let alone a ratchet, and forget about leverage, you have none in that kind of position. I'm assuming if you have that job done at the dealer, they probably replace all 4 and float the cab over the frame on the lift to gain access to those 10mm bolts. For people like me who are doing this in their driveway, The only option I can think of is to cut the tails off those bolts and drill through them so that I can flip those bolts to face upward instead of downward and just through-bolting them with slightly longer bolts and flange nuts on top. Just curious how other people have done this.

 

This thread maybe helpful Chico: 06 frame swap/super-mega rebuild | Toyota Tundra Forum @MI_Treetaco might have some tips
Others have done cab off stuff at home. Maybe @whodatschrome although I don't think he had to do a cab off.

 

Check this vid, pretty good:

https://youtu.be/jb_GlNcruQ0

 

Are you trying to replace with OEM mounts and reusing the welded cap nuts?

 

replacing with OEM mounts. Also got new OEM center bolts & OEM lower washers. Was planning on getting new m10x1.25 bolts and flange nuts to replace the welded nuts.

 

@Jack McCarthy has ample experience and I have one or more links to details on replacing the cab mounts in the Megathread sticky if it helps.

 

I cut the welded nuts off and put in Energy Suspension’s cab mount kit

$109 8.4109G Body Mount Set-Reg, Access & Dbl Cab

8.4109G which comes with nut and bolt hardware. There’s an entire thread on it here I created when I found my cab was leaning in the rear and could hear metal on metal going over road bumps because my cab mount imploded.

If you’re a purist, it can still be done with OEM mounts, you just need to lift the cab up 4 inches on one side and maybe get a right angle impact in there if they’re rusted into the frame nuts.

With the kit I used, I only had to lift it a couple inches at most.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'd obviously like to get those bolts out without having to drill them out but I just don't see how it's possible without raising the entire cab off the frame.

 

Awesome, I'm going to do the same thing but i'll be using OEM mounts.

 

Yup, I linked it near the very top of the the community megastickythread because it's a pretty important tidbit you shared in that one:

• Check all four cab mounts for rust. It's possible (not "easy") to replace cab mounts. This thread may help on replacement.

Probably sound like a broken record, but we've tried to make that sticky thread the go-to for anything wrong with our trucks. All you gotta do is search the 1st page for a keyword. I found that seraching for "cab mount"

 

Somewhat embarrassed to say that I definitely should've replaced my mounts at the time but also definitely didn't...

 

You can - mostly. I had one collapse and faced the same problem. Loosened the front cab mount and was able to easily lift the cab ~12in. - could probably got more, but was just replacing the broken one. Oh, and I used the OEM replacement.

 

I was thinking the same thing. If all the cab mount center bolts are backed out quite a bit I'm sure there will be alot of room to play with.

 

So there’s enough slack in the fuel lines and brake lines coming off the master cylinder/ABS block to allow that much height? I’ll have to take a second look at that myself.

 

I didn't even fully remove the front cab mount bolt. It was at least 3" off the frame.
No ABS, so just the brake lines - and they were fine.

 

This is the method I always recommend, jacking the cab up off the frame after disconnecting the mount, and people always think I'm crazy.

 

My daughter has an '01 with a 2" body lift. It took me a while to process what I was looking at...the engine seemed too low in the engine bay. Yes, all that stuff just stretches out to accommodate the lift. The splash guards in the wheel wells no longer fit, but other than that everything seemed more or less the same. I'm uncertain, however, how the steering shaft was extended. Next time I get the chance (she's ~ 2,000 miles away) I'll take a better look.